96SNOB Steering

Anyone know the correct length for a 96 SNOB?

Thanks Mike, do you have any contact info?

Just got an email from Karen. She said we'd need a special cable for the SNOB. I'm guessing due to the windshield and dash being moved back. Makes for a pretty pricy cable, but I guess thats the luxury of having an open bow!

According to White Lake Marine's online store, all boats from 93-97 used the same 19.5' steering cable. Its special in that its a special Teleflex part (not a universal cable), but theres nothing special about the SNOB.

Thanks for the info guys...I'll do some more checking and see if Karen can get me one in the next few weeks.

TRBenj wrote: According to White Lake Marine's online store, all boats from 93-97 used the same 19.5' steering cable. Its special in that its a special Teleflex part (not a universal cable), but theres nothing special about the SNOB.

Tim,thanks for clearing this up. Looks like the one in their shop is around the same price as what Karen expected. The weird thing is the dealer thought it'd only be 150?

You guys think the difference would be in quality of the cable?

I agree with Billy. Buy the right cable for the boat. The earlier boats (pre-2001) used the standard cable with the shorter throw. I notice a huge difference in low speed maneuverability. I can get by with the smaller boats, but we're buying a high dollar cable and converting the BFN over this spring.

Sorry I have to jump in here. When we went over to Teleflex rack and pinion there really was not any thing special or propriatary about it until we utilized the idea of incorperating the old larger rotory cable in the rack format. Then in either late 90's or early 2000s teleflex went to a larger rack mount and pinion assembly. Since Teleflex and Morse combined company's the larger heavier rotory/rack cables became more troublesome and early failure became a problem and Nautiques have now gone over to the standard Teleflex Extreem cable.
A suggestion for all that are considering a new cable in a early Teleflex rack and pinion application is to go ahead and up grade the pinion assembly to the newer unit and utilize the newer Teleflex Extreem cable. you will be happier for it. Also if you are paying more than $145.00 for the cable you are being robbed!
This application does apply to the pre Teleflex Rack and pinion era nautiques as the old rotory systems do have a the extra throw incorperated in them.
Cheers!
Jody

Thread Jack

Hey Jody good to have you back!! how was your trip to the aussie land?
Pics?
kapla

Thanks for the info Jody, looks like I have some research to do on cables!

Edit: Just ignore my advice- I havent had to do a rack cable (yet). Jody has it covered.

Fl Inboards wrote: TRBenj wrote: If the new (R&P) cables are like the old (rotary) ones, then you'll need to reuse the clamp tube. Pull the new cable through (Ive always done front to rear) using either the old cable or a rope (that you pulled through when you removed the old one). Install the cable at the helm, such that the middle of the cable's travel has your steering wheel right side up (this can be tricky). Then install the cable to the rudder. The last thing you want to do is to lock down the clamp block to the clamp tube. You do this by putting the steering wheel in the center (equal travel in both directions) and holding the rudder straight. Clamp the cable down in that position.

Wrong procdure for centering a rack and pinion cable clamp block assembly and centering the steering wheel.

Centering the rudder is done with a tape measure via measuring tip of trailing edge of rudder to the corner of the chine cut out/bottom of boat with the rudder at full travel one way then measure full travel the other way. Move the cable support tube so as the measurements are equal from full travel both directions then tighten down the clamp block assembly.

To center the steering wheel the boat needs to be run on the water. Keep in mind that the hub assembly is splined with the sterring post.
First remove center cap then loosen the nut holding down the steering wheel to the hub with a 3/4" socket Note: do not completly remove nut but get it finger loose.
Next run the boat up to 34 mph holding the steering wheel firm and driving in a straight line(this next part is kind tricky)notice where the steering wheel is oreinted and where you would like it oreinted at this point holding firmly to the steering wheel and driving in a straight line, slowly pull the throtle handle back down to idle/out of gear then unscrew the nut as it should be on finger tight pull off steering wheel re-orient it where it needs to go install the nut again finger tight then go check. If all checks out OK then retighten the nut with 3/4" socket and put center cap back on.

I do this part of the procedure in less than 3 min so it is not complicated.

With Tims method you may wind up with more rudder travel going one way then the other.
Keep in mind I have already replaced three rack systems this month.
Also on your 96 you would do your self a favor and buy a new teleflex Extreeme cable and the newer pinion assembly as it is superrior to what came orginal on the boat.

It's hard to find good help these day's

TRBenj wrote: Chris, that sounds more like a cable issue to me. Take the cable off the rudder and turn it by hand- if its smooth and turns easy, then dont bother pulling it... although now might be a good time to change the packing.

I may do this, just because we were having some water on the carpet in the back of the boat. I think I've tracked it down to the rubrail. Just want to make sure, thats a different topic tho.

TRBenj wrote: If the new (R&P) cables are like the old (rotary) ones, then you'll need to reuse the clamp tube. Pull the new cable through (Ive always done front to rear) using either the old cable or a rope (that you pulled through when you removed the old one).

I'll snap some pics at lunch, I'm pretty sure I'll be reusing the clamp box. This is the white deal coming out of the starboard stringer? Correct?

TRBenj wrote:    Install the cable at the helm, such that the middle of the cable's travel has your steering wheel right side up (this can be tricky). Then install the cable to the rudder.

Here's a picture of the assembly at the helm. Hard to tell, but thats the end of the teeth and you can see the cable on the right side of the opening. It looks like it's set up to one end (either right or left). I talked with Woody this morning, he said if the wheel's not right side up I can pop the center cap and flip the wheel accordingly.

TRBenj wrote:    Then install the cable to the rudder. The last thing you want to do is to lock down the clamp block to the clamp tube. You do this by putting the steering wheel in the center (equal travel in both directions) and holding the rudder straight. Clamp the cable down in that position.

This sounds like it should be pretty simple. I feel that I'm thinking about it too much, I need to get in front of it and just get it done.

Jody, thanks for all the info...Sounds like you and Woody are on the same page with centering the wheel. I got the cable from him, he knew exactly what I needed once I said 96 SNOB.

Great description on finding correct throw aswell! He thought I would be alright as long as I don't mess with the settings once I get everything apart. I'll see if I can get it installed tonight, make some measurements and report back!

Thanks Jody, Woody did mention this briefly but I wsn't 100% sure if I heard him right.

Chris
So, the rudder definetely had a little more play than it should have?! Glad you ended up checking the packing and found the reason why.

Thats the great thing with this site...lots of people with lots of different experiences...and always willing to help!

Pete/Steve, thanks again guys. You ROCK!!

Anyone have any tips on getting the new cable started? This one is giving me hell trying to get through the first 2 feet. I'm a little worried I'll damage the other controls/wires going through if I try and force it too much.

ps- I now know why Pete always wears long sleeves, I got into some glass last night on our muffler and am itching like a homeless bum!!