Acceleration issues.

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It doesn't have to come from DUI either

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If they are spade connectors, they are not as tight as they should be for sure, as there was a lot of movement in them. They seemed loose when I checked them and pushed them together, but I was only checking to make sure outer plastic retention clips (if that's the right term) were connected. Thanks!

When it returned from the last shop after they put the distributor gear back on, it would reportedly start, idle and then die off idle. They also reported it only had 13psi vacuum. I worked my way through the "slipped timing tooth theory" (thanks to you all) and finally put everything back together. I finally started it yesterday and idled but it didn't sound great. Off idle it stumbled hard and would die. When it would run it would idle low. I confirmed the timing was holding a really steady 10*. I stopped for the day. 

In getting ready to post those findings, I went back through to see what other suggestions I needed to report back as well. So, I decided to triple check the cap again knowing the rotor hit something when it died on the lake and the cap looked perfect and I put the cap back on. The other was to check there was 12V at the distributor. It indicated 11.8 but the battery is likely low from all the start attempts at the shop. I then double checked the connection/clips to the BAT and TACH terminals on the distributor by just making sure they were clipped in. There was really no reason to start the boat again and see if I could slowly get it off idle but I thought let's give one more try to confirm and it FIRED RIGHT UP AND SOUNDED GREAT!! Great throttle response and holds higher RPM's no problem. After turning it off and staring at it in shock for a bit, I tried a re-start and it started instantly (like touch the key start) it has never done that before. Did it twice to confirm. I also checked the vacuum which is back to a steady 15psi. 

The only thing that changed between yesterday and today was I pulled and checked the cap, confirmed 12V to distributor and double checked the connection/clips to the BAT and TACH terminals. The answer must lie here, my guess is a bad/loose connection or ground etc. I left well enough alone at this point. I need to confirm all of those connections since it was the first shop that installed the new distributor. So any recommendations on the best way to do that would be appreciated. I assume I can just remove the clips from the distributor and inspect them but I'm not touching anything right now as I want to enjoy a few days of victory with this boat before digging in for a closer look. 

Thanks again everyone!

Thank you for confirming everything looks OK at this point, I really appreciate it.

I am going to start putting things back together this week and inspecting things well as I do it. Hopefully I will get it fired up on the trailer by this weekend with some news to report. I found the DUI instructions with the troubleshooting section for some light reading as well just in case I need to go down that road at some point (hopefully not). Thanks.

I was able verify some things this am. Just for clarification, the previous photo with the piece of paper with the marking #1 on the wire was where #1 used to be before going to the last shop. That is in fact where the #2 wire is and should be located now as KENO stated. See the below photos.

Ok, when I removed the plugs I marked every wire with the correct cylinder location (based on the photo provided earlier in confirming the firing order). So, I went back out and turned the motor to TDC with the dampener at TDC as well as the rotor pointing to #1 wire in photo below. I then marked all of the wires on the distributor starting with #1 and working my way around CCW. Then checked that the markings at the distributor matched the markings at the plug end. 1 to1, 8 to 8 and so on. They all matched. I have looked at these wires so many times in dealing with this boat that I could be going cross-eyed though. If anyone sees anything in the photo that does not appear correct please let me know. Thanks everyone.

When you go to fix your fire order on the plug wires remember this is a FORD, Ford engines are 1234 on bank one and 567 and 8 on bank 2.

If you look straight down on your engine above your distributor and engine pulleys you will see one cylinder head is about 1” forward of the other at the front of the engine.   This forward head is always bank 1 where your #1 cylinder is on a V8 engine to get started.

Looking at your picture above with the #1 plug wire marked by the piece of paper and working my way around the cap counterclockwise, i can't come up with what looks like the right firing order based on which 4 wires are going to one side of the engine and which 4 go to the other side.

It might have something to do with the hallucinogenic mushroom pizza I had for supper, then again maybe the order just ain't right 

Those mushrooms are still affecting me but it sorta looks like #3 and #5 plug wires are swapped

That might make your engine a V6 or maybe V5 1/2 with the low compression on #7.

The shop reported that it starts and runs on the trailer and advised they had set the initial timing at 10*. They stated when they gave it fuel it would die. They also reported a slight fluctuation and 13 psi of vacuum at idle. They could not find any vacuum leaks either. I have not confirmed any of this yet.

I inspected the cap since the rotor had to hit something to damage it. I didn't see anything but I will give it a very thorough inspection. I missed the damaged rotor before, so lesson learned on my part. 

I will get everything put back together this week (assuming the cap is good) and hopefully get it started and confirm timing and confirm exactly what is happening when I move the throttle off idle. 

Also for reference since this post is getting a bit lengthy, I believe this boat has had timing issues in the past since. The reason I say that is the previous distributor I pulled out was an automotive distributor. So the original distributor had already been replaced with the previous distributor or possibly others (I only know about the previous distributor). With only 400 hours that seemed a little odd to me but that is just a guess on my part. The previous distributor also had a chipped tooth on the gear. The chipped tooth is the other piece I found when I removed the old fuel pump. 

Thanks everyone for your input and patience. I'll let you know what I find when I fire it up...assuming of course that it starts. 

Great advice on removing the valve covers and verifying myself what is going on with the valves as you suggest. Valves are new territory for me but time to learn and confirm. I should also note that there is/was what appeared some red silicone/sealant under the valve covers and manifold (but not where the heads meet the block) which may indicate that someone prior had been in at least those areas previously. The last shop removed it and replaced it with the proper gaskets under the valve covers. Just FYI if that seems important moving forward.

I will remove the valve cover for #1 and and rotate the engine and let you know what I find. Thanks!

At TDC on the compression stroke the rotor was in fact pointing to the number 1 wire position (just now in new location) and the firing order was correct the rest of the way around counterclockwise. The advance also moved freely. So we should be good there.

I removed the plugs and belts and rotated the engine by hand. The rotor (assuming same as dizzy) seemed to move smoothly. When I paused and reversed the rotation there was maybe about a 1/4" to 3/8" of play before it rotated the other direction. I also measured it in degrees of timing on the timing tape and it was about 5 to 6 degrees, which is likely more accurate than my guess, before it engaged again going the other way. Since this is my first time doing this, any thoughts on these findings?

The motor also shows 409 hours for reference. Thanks