Broken shaft

My shaft in my 82 SN broke last year exactly the same way. New shaft, dripless packing, new prop. About two nights to replace it. It was the first time i had ever removed the shaft, so it took me a while. I think I cut the shaft to get it out of the boat. All parts and advice came from SKIDIM.

ernest

79; my '64 ame w/a 12 in. dia. prop,that was the reason for extending my shaft.you should have the room,measure C/L of prop shaft to the floor of your boat,if you have 7.75in. or more you can swing a 13in. wheel w/no problemo...........boat dr.

i have about 1.30 in. prop to hull clearance,too close and it will burn(pull the gel)the bottom..........

JoeinNY wrote: the previous owner must have added it because he was storing the boat in salt water, if he hadn't painted over it, it might have been some help.

That's funny!
Aside from the drag/turbulance issues, I'd be concerned about holding a prop in the strut turning at 3-4K rpm that just broke loose from the shaft. It might saw into the hull instead of flying off to the bottom of the lake and that would suck. Plus the prop would be all beat up.

Hey boat dr,

Do you know if I have enough clearance to run these Acme props that folks rave about like the 542 on my 79 Ski Tique with a new but stock shaft?

try cutting the rest of the bad shaft out and press the coupling off in a press, you may have to use a cut off wheel, be careful of the sparks or you can use a h bar puller wih bolts. its hard to use a slide hammer to do this. there are split type couplings available which do not use the taper shaft, you use a straight shaft with a key and the coulping is split down the middle with 2 bolts when you tighten these bolts the coupling is clamped right onto the shaft, they are the cats a$$ they are available from t.m.i 1-800-462-8848

Is there a tool to help remove the shaft from the coupling? I have the coupling unbolted from the tranny and the set bolts removed but I cannot seam to loosen the shaft from the coupling. any ideas?

You can buy a 2-piece egg shaped zinc anode that will bolt on the the shaft at that location. I had one on my 1967 when I got it, the previous owner must have added it because he was storing the boat in salt water, if he hadn't painted over it, it might have been some help. I tossed it since I run in freshwater and hoist the boats at night but it would save the prop in the case of some shaft breaks.

I have a question.
Do they make, or could you get a collar to put on the shaft above the strut so in the event the shaft was to break;

a; You wouldn't loose your $350 (+ -) prop?

b; Reduce possible rudder and hull damage?

I guess there is a reason this isn't done. Perhaps a balance issue....Anyone? d

since your replacing the shaft might as well looking in to replacing the packing gland with a dripless seal as well. Always nice to have a clean water free bilge.

p/allen my prop and shaft guru says;we offer the following shafts,#17, #19,#22. the higher the # the more resistant they are to corrosion,that tells me #22 contains more nickel and other alloys making it softer but more expensive.#17 is the stock material and specs for C/C. they are the OEM for all of C/C boats.
shaft is 41 in. single taper........boat dr

when asked about the break"every part has a service life,w/the clean break sounds like metal fatigue, end of subject"

for the price of the shaft i was quoted and the fact i just bought 2 Austals 4 blades,sounds like cheap insurance to the boat dr........... but i could be wrong

boat dr hooked me up with an incredible deal

not a bad idea if you have the cash and the time. We were one of two boats out and luckly were able to get towed all the way across the lake and back to the dock. I was without outta paddle

Andy, ain't nothing but a thang,this is what i do for a living,buy parts ,work on boats,and try to make my clients happy. glad to do a good deed for a CCF,also saved you a lot of money in the process.it ain't BS if you can back it up. Advice is cheap;Knowhow is expensive.............boat dr

andy,call me with year model,i will call one of my vendors to check price...........boat dr

alot of times with mis-alignment you may or may not get a vibration, i would look for that chart i talked about earlier, I cant remember what causes a clean break. a twisting break i believe one side woul be higher. i will also look tonight for that chart it is really informative