Bucket test |
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The Dude
Platinum Member Joined: October-19-2004 Location: Houston Status: Offline Points: 1334 |
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I have checked all possible air leaks including strainer (doesn't mean I didn't miss one) and think everything is tight. Disconnected hose from hull pickup and did bucket test there. Disconnected hose from tranny cooler and did bucket test there. Same results on time it took to empty bucket, so I'm thinking there is not an air leak between pickup and pump (again--I could be wrong). That's why I'm thinking it may be sucking air at the pump. The bearing seems to be good though.
I will recheck hoses tonight, perhaps I've got a crack in one--or the strainer. I think what Tim says makes sense...overheat at idle sounds like sucking air somewhere besides the pump. Thanks guys. Merry Christmas! |
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Mullet Free since 93
95 Sport |
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Hollywood
Moderator Group Joined: February-04-2004 Location: Twin Lakes, WI Status: Offline Points: 13512 |
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Not only do the clamps have to be tight but the hose has to be all the way on the barb too, found that one this summer.
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TRBenj
Grand Poobah Joined: June-29-2005 Location: NWCT Status: Offline Points: 21135 |
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If youre only overheating at idle, then you most likely have an air leak between the pick up and the pump. The increased RPM allows the increased water flow to overcome the small air leak. Check all hose ends for damage (cracks, etc) and tighten all clamps with a nut driver (not a screw driver). Also verify your strainer gasket is in good shape and that the bowl is installed very tight.
When a RWP is starting to pull air and fail, it will usually show up as an overheat at higher speeds/loads, not idle. Same goes for a blockage on the intake side. I have several RWP's that leak externally a bit... but they must not be pulling air because they allow the engine to regulate proper temperature just fine under all conditions. |
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Hollywood
Moderator Group Joined: February-04-2004 Location: Twin Lakes, WI Status: Offline Points: 13512 |
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Disconnect the RWP outlet and fill the bilge, that will eliminate the clogged manifold possibility. Not sure how much effect thermostat open/closed has, but with those temps the thermostat is definitely open. You could dump the exhaust manifold hoses to the bilge as well and compare.
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The Dude
Platinum Member Joined: October-19-2004 Location: Houston Status: Offline Points: 1334 |
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Thanks David. That's what I think too. Impeller is good...change it bi-yearly. The O ring in the pump has been an issue too...It never seems quite thick enough, but I've got several and they're all the same size. If you used permatex, which side of the brass plate would you put it on? pump side or housing/impeller side? I would think pump side, right?
I ordered a new rwp today. The bearing seems good, and it does suck water, but I am thinking it's just not enough--like you said. I figured it should empty that 5 gal bucket in 60 sec or less. I may try the permatex idea and if that seems to fix it I may send the pump back. I appreciate your suggested sequence...I agree. |
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Mullet Free since 93
95 Sport |
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63 Skier
Grand Poobah Joined: October-06-2006 Location: Concord, NH Status: Offline Points: 4245 |
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While you might need manifolds, you should fix the water flow problem first. Keep in mind the manifolds are probably too hot from not enough water flow. I'd concentrate on the flow problem until it's fixed before doing anything else to the engine.
90-120 seconds is too long. When did you last replace the impeller? Also, if you've had to re-tap and fix a leak then you may either be sucking air or just have too much end play. I'd suggest the following: run a new impeller first if you haven't already changed it, then use a thin layer of permatex to seal the pump housing and see if that makes a difference. You may need a new pump. |
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'63 American Skier - '98 Sport Nautique
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The Dude
Platinum Member Joined: October-19-2004 Location: Houston Status: Offline Points: 1334 |
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but i've had trouble with rwp--sometimes leaking. had to re-tap one bolt hole so I could tighten up...twice. I think it's sucking air on the intake side. However, I think replacing manifolds is good idea anyway....always a little too hot to touch in summer.
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Mullet Free since 93
95 Sport |
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The Dude
Platinum Member Joined: October-19-2004 Location: Houston Status: Offline Points: 1334 |
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90-120 seconds to drain 5 gallons at idle (750-800 rpms).
Have had consistent probs during last year keeping temp steady at idle after skiing. goes as high as 200 sometimes. If i rev it in neutral it will cool to 170 and stay...buddies here who boat in salt water say replace manifolds. They are 7.5 years in salt water. |
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Mullet Free since 93
95 Sport |
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63 Skier
Grand Poobah Joined: October-06-2006 Location: Concord, NH Status: Offline Points: 4245 |
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Like people are saying, you should see the level drop steadily, maybe 30 seconds to drain the bucket? Not sure of exact amount of time, but very fast.
What did you see when you ran the test? |
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'63 American Skier - '98 Sport Nautique
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gR@HaM
Platinum Member Joined: May-01-2012 Location: UK Status: Offline Points: 1265 |
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Same here, I ended up bringing home a 200L drum from work it lasts a lot longer!!
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'82 Ski Tique
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td_in_nc
Senior Member Joined: March-30-2012 Location: Clayton NC Status: Offline Points: 381 |
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I fill up a 5 gallon bucket before I start the boat, then I keep the hose on feeding the bucket. I can typically run it about 5 minutes before the bucket is empty - even with the hose on I cannot keep up with the water demand.
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gun-driver
Grand Poobah Joined: July-18-2008 Location: Pittsburgh, Pa Status: Offline Points: 4117 |
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Once the temp comes up to where the thermostat opens it will drain fairly quickly.
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The Dude
Platinum Member Joined: October-19-2004 Location: Houston Status: Offline Points: 1334 |
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how fast should my RWP suck up a 5 gallon bucket full of water when I'm doing the bucket test on the pump?
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Mullet Free since 93
95 Sport |
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