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1978 CC Ski Nautique Engine Type & Mystery Box?

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8122pbrainard View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 8122pbrainard Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: December-09-2014 at 12:54pm
Originally posted by WheelsUpATX WheelsUpATX wrote:

The engine will not start up, the starter is going and it's trying to start but no ignition whatsoever.

We have brand new battery.

Since the boat has been sitting for all those years, did your "mechanic" use the point file on the point set? How is he checking for spark?

Regarding the battery, hopefully it's not a deep cycle and a starting type. You never know what those Autozone guys will give/sell you! Find another auto supply!

BTW, check out the FAQ thread in the maintenance section.


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote WheelsUpATX Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: December-09-2014 at 12:49pm
Okay I'll look into that as well. The wiring harness was also modified and changed up. I am going to get the voltage regulator as I think I can get that at a auto parts store rather easily. My brother sent me this link does this resonate with anyone? http://www.junkyardgenius.com/charging/ford02.html
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote NautiqueNut Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: December-09-2014 at 12:38pm
WheelsUpATX     
Sorry fellas, I was mistaking . That is most likely a Commander as in 1978 Correct Craft offered the PCM Ford and the Commander Ford. I was dreaming in my sleep last night. Also the box is the voltage regulator.
When I bought my 1978 in 2012 before it was restored, the main issue was that the wire harness in the boat had fried the voltage regulator and the alternator. According to my mechanic once the correct wiring was done to the original diagram, and the shorted out and spliced wires were replaced. Bingo, Motor fired up on the second crank, and all systems were go! The wiring in a boat that old is a big and costly issue if it had not been maintained. Lisa
It was not to late for my 78
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote WheelsUpATX Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: December-09-2014 at 12:16pm
I'll make note on the mechanic. If anyone knows a good mechanic in Austin TX where I can get some help with this boat let me know. Also regarding my engine and condition of the boat (I will post more pics) I scored this boat from a friend that let it sit outside and stopped caring for it and it didn't move for 4-5 years sitting outside uncovered. I've been restoring it slowly, I am going to publish a library of pics b/c I have some questions about the hull and other projects I'd like to take on. Thanks for the tips on the coil and the resistor, etc. I need to get out a paper and trace this out and follow a few wires and get some better answers. I have also heard the voltage regulators don't go bad as I've seen the inside of them and it doesn't look like anything that would go bad easily. I will look for a safety kill switch. I don't have one that I know of but might be a nice thing to have come to think of it! Will do some investigating today and report back with some pics. I would buy all of you a beer if I could for the advice. thanks so much. We need an online beer thing on here where u can automatically give the guy with the best tips a beer? cheers y'all.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Hollywood Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: December-09-2014 at 11:12am
Get a new "mechanic" x3
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Orlando76 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: December-09-2014 at 6:00am
Your coil is getting less than 10v because there's a resistor ahead of it punching it down as the coil doesn't like a good 13.6. I agree with Pete, find a new mechanic! Voltage regulators usually don't go bad.... Come to think of it , I've never replaced one and all the ones I've ever seen or had were all original. If your "mechanic" straightened out the ignition wiring, I'd strongly suspect that to be the problem. Dumb question, you don't have a safety kill switch do you? Or perhaps a hole where there was one say around the throttle?

And I'd lean towards Commander on engine. Wasn't Crusader a lighter blue and the glimpse of that manifold elbow sure looks like a Commander log.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote NautiqueNut Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: December-09-2014 at 4:55am
Originally posted by baitkiller baitkiller wrote:

Lisa? is that you?

Baitkiller , You could eat off of my engine after my real mechanic reworked my PCM ford 351 to original \I will say that its a Crusader engine and 1:1 velvet drive in the picture I see. Boat and engine need some attention I would say, but to each his own.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote WheelsUpATX Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: December-09-2014 at 1:41am
haha yeah @8122pbrainard I think my mechanic is more sick of me than the boat itself. I was a little trigger shy on posting as I was worried I might not be clear enough. The engine will not start up, the starter is going and it's trying to start but no ignition whatsoever. We have brand new battery. Will post a video of this tomorrow... It's the same sound an engine makes when it's not getting any fuel but we know its getting fuel so I think it's the spark/electrical type problem.... Alternator, starter are fine, brand new battery. We recently put in a new ignition switch and did some re-wiring as the key switch was not wired correctly. He made some wiring adjustments and changes that I am not 100% up to speed on but I was told to do a voltage check on this voltage regulator and report back in. That would explain why the voltage at the coil is sub 10V right? Maybe the regulator is t*ts up? Thanks for your patience on all of this, I sell software and airplanes, don't know squat about boats. However I'm stoked to learn more and I am learning! Thanks again for all of your comments. This forum is awesome.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 8122pbrainard Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: December-09-2014 at 12:37am
Dan,
I hate to say this but I feel you need to find another mechanic! He "thinks" it's the voltage regulator! He told YOU to check it? Ether a problem with the voltage regulator or ignition coil are pretty basic to diagnose. When you say the boat won't start, it sounds like the engine won't turn over correct? But then you mention a "coil" which would affect the engine actually firing. Can you fill us in with more info?


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote WheelsUpATX Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: December-09-2014 at 12:00am
Thank you Grand Poobah! @ Baitkiller I am not Lisa so no it's not me.

The last time I took the boat I barely got it started at the boat launch. After a few jumps I got it started and was afraid to turn off the engine so we ran around for about 30-40 minutes. I shut the boat down and BARELY got it to start a second time. I decided to leave the engine on and drive around for 20 more minutes, at idle the engine finally quit and the battery was flat out dead so no luck starting again. I assumed it might be the alternator. I yanked the alternator and had it tested, it passed. Auto Zone tested my battery which was less than a year old and gave me a free replacement they said it was basically dead so I thought the new battery would fix the problem. New battery and functional alternator I couldn't get the boat to start at all now. It was starting immediately before I started having this electrical issue as my mechanic re-wired the ignition and cleaned up some of the wiring it was starting like a champ. My mechanic thinks it's this voltage regulator box, he told me to look into fixing this and see if that does it b/c the coil isn't showing anything north of 7-8V and it looks like it pulls from that box so that's where my mechanic said I should check, either that or maybe a bad coil but my coil is brand new and my brother insists that coils don't just go bad in their first few months usually. I am going to try and get a voltage regulator from Auto Parts store and see if that works. Thanks so much for the reply. This forum is awesome. I hope to give back as I learn more. Sincerely, BOAT- BUST OUT ANOTHER THOUSAND!!!!!!!!!!!
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote baitkiller Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: December-08-2014 at 11:03pm
Lisa? is that you?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (1) Thanks(1)   Quote TRBenj Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: December-08-2014 at 11:03pm
Voltage regulator.

Better pics of the engine would be helpful. The id # is unlikely to help. Exhaust manifolds and paint color make Commander a good guess with nothing else to go on.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote WheelsUpATX Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: December-08-2014 at 10:54pm
Two Questions: Motor Type and What is this metal box?

I have a 1978 Correct Craft Ski Nautique. My Engine Motor # is CM56127R yet I am not sure exactly what model engine that is does anyone know? My mechanic said it's a Crusader model, I can't seem to find anything online. The Outdrive # is 1560 not sure what that is? Any engine experts out there know what model motor I have?

The reason I need to know is 1. I sound like an idiot not knowing. and #2 see this picture I am trying to figure out if this little metal box might be affecting my engine from starting. The boat ran fine all year and recently my mechanic changed up the wiring. The boat worked fine for a while but I had a battery issue that was causing problems starting. Now after another mechanic visit my mechanic has advised me to look into this box and try and replace as it might be part of the reason the engine isn't turning over. See link to the pic. It's a small metal box and it doesn't look very old compared to some of the other items on my engine. It has "5MC" stamped on the back but no other part #'s or ID.

Metal box from a distance



close up:



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