ProTec Ignition Swap

Distributor cap position, wire position... There is no such thing as "normal position". Order, yes- position, no. It all depends on the orientation of the distributor when it was installed. There is no right or wrong (other than cosmetics).

Is that really the correct timing in that picture? That's quite a few degrees different from the norm.

I bought a used D.I.U. distributor and spark plug wires on Ebay.
The seller sold his SN and switched the distributor and manifold for the old parts.
Precaution on the ProTec on my '92 BFN with 5.8 HO.

With the help of this very useful instruction I will do the swap this spring.
The boat is in winter storage now.
Many thanks for posting it!

http://www.correctcraftfan.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=37573&title=voltage-for-my-protec-swap

Link to further discussion on this subject. Specifically read the post I called GOTCHAS before you get too deep into this conversion.

Manifold discussion

Here's some more shots of ours. It's close, but it fit.

Hmm. I never had any clearance issues with our '92. It was close, but there was plenty of room.

Is the dizzy set so the rotor is pointing to cylinder 1 at TDC?

Take a pic looking down on the dizzy so we can see whats going on.

While installing the DUI I suggest that you read the voltage at P on the connector or at the 12.5 Amp breaker point 26 on the diagram. Per the DUI website it needs to be above 10.5Vdc while the engine is cranking for the DUI to operate correctly. I didn't mention this to JPASS when he installed his because I believe he had already beefed up his dash wiring so I assumed he was OK. If the voltage is below 10.5 then you will either need to beef up the dash wiring ( easy to do. positive side only not the grounds) or install a relay that switches the 12Vdc at the engine to the DUI and is controlled by the key switch voltage (which is what CC should have done in the first place for the Protec).

From DUI website:
If all of your connections check out good, then check your battery voltage as you are cranking the engine. Since the DUI is a high performance ignition system it requires more voltage than a standard ignition system. If your battery voltage drops below 10.5 volts, this is not enough power to get the distributor to fire. This condition can be due to a weak or old battery or you are using a hot wire that has a resistor in line. Use a volt meter to test the hot wire while someone else cranks the engine over. If the voltage drops below 10.5, check your battery. To make sure it is not the hot wire, run a temporary jumper wire directly from the positive side of the battery to the distributor. If the distributor fires using the jumper wire, run a new hot wire from your switched 12 volt source to the distributor.

Air206 wrote: Getting Ready to do this swap, just ordered from Performance Distributors. - got red (red is always fast) For the Barefoot, it's a Chevy 454......... Will Post Pics and variations. AWESOME write up!

Good to hear, life is too short for ProTec issues

GRACIAS.
Thanks for the confirmation.

I don't have a schematic for the EMS but I expect that the input at F is pulled up and when either switch detects a fault it is pulled to ground. The EMS can't tell which fault occurred, temp or oil pressure, but will go to limp mode for either. One of the ground connections is used when you connect G and B together. The ground at M is not used but if you want to connect them together it won't hurt. Also, I probably wouldn't use wire nuts for any of these connections.

edit: My mistake. I forgot the DUI doesn't need the ground wire. So yes you can remove them or just leave them clipped off.

DUI and plug wires arrived... Excited about installing and test starting ASAP. I do have some questions for the folks that have done this....

My boat is a 92 with a Holley carb.

Questions:

1. Coil Packs and wire connector are removed and disposed of, correct?
2. In the write up above, 1 wire on the EMS connector is not accounted for "F" (and the other ground, I plan to wire nut both ground wires, or follow them to the block and remove them.)
But what about "F"? wire is labeled 30 and goes to the water temp switch and the OP switch.
3. are these switches only giving the EMS feedback, will they be useless once the EMS is gone? Again, I assume I should tape, wire nut or remove the #30 wire? Or if I am really bored, maybe pull the switches and block off the holes?

4. Not that it matters, I am curious tho. If wire 30 goes to 2 switches, how does the EMS know what each switch is (or was) doing?



Thanks for the great write up.... And for all who have replied.

Clark

Kroundy: glad my write up helped. A big thanks to those who gave me the info I needed to be able to create that write up in the first place.

Orlando76 wrote: Looks like I'll be doing this shortly as well as my idle seems a bit lope-y. I'm guessing the original Pro Boss cover doesn't fit with the DUI? Does any distributor fit under the cover?

Mine fit, but the front lower edge of the cover made contact with my wires on the dizzy. I notched the cover in the front to give more clearance, but I wound up not using the cover. I'm also running a 4010 holley. Not sure if it's any shorter than the 4160.

Oh, and just one more comment - the idle was noticeably smoother with the DUI installed. The engine really seemed "eager" to run with the DUI. I'll also report back after my on-the-water test.

Looks like I'll be doing this shortly as well as my idle seems a bit lope-y. I'm guessing the original Pro Boss cover doesn't fit with the DUI? Does any distributor fit under the cover?