No start, searched, accel pump?

Well I finally got a chance to work on my boat to put the new timing set on etc after my problem. Anyways, I went to fire it up today and no go. My boat had been getting harder and harder to start over the past year. Before the timing gear broke it would take me 20 min of fiddling and putting a jumper on it to start. Today I figured the same thing, but after two hours i couldnt get it to start, even poured fuel down the carb and nothing. I searched on here about accelerator pump problems and people taking off the throttle cable to test. When I took the cable off and pushed the throttle by hand I didnt have any fuel coming out, no matter how many times i pumped it. I figured that there was not enough fuel in the lines because it has been sitting for a while, so I cranked it for a while and still nothing. So now im thinking either the accel pump or the fuel pump is not bringing fuel up to the carb. Any suggestions?

rudderdad wrote: By pouring fuel in the carb, you should have gotten something. Are you getting any spark to the plugs? If you still have ignition with points and condensor, it could easily be the condensor, have had even new ones fail.

I had spark, electronic ignition, but my starter is really slow even with a jumper on it. I think i need a new starter to get it cranking faster, then see if i can work on that after. I also need to set my timing, but i cant do that until i get the damn thing to start.

JoeinNY wrote: Could be your timing is too far off to start the boat. Have you tried to adjust it a bit and see if that makes a difference.

Yea i tried moving the distributor a little bit both ways and still nothing. I followed the advice given to me in another thread to get the timing close enough to get the boat started. Put the timing chain dot-to-dot to get TDC #1, then made sure i got the rotor to point at the #1 tower on the dist cap. I also checked the firing order twice and it's correct.

eric lavine wrote: check your starter connections or it may be time for a starter if everything else checks out, it shouldve kicked when you put fuel down the throat of the carb, remove the fuel line to the carb and crank it over making sure you are getting fuel to the carb if you are the bowls should be full, if you crank the carb arm it should spray fuel and you will see this. im wondering why it didnt kick when you poured fuel down her, dont rule out the condensor, with a bad condensor it will still spark

I actually pulled the fuel line to the carb and there wasnt any fuel coming out while cranking. There isnt a condensor b/c it's electronic correct? Atleast i didnt see one in there when i put the new module in.

no condensor if you converted, good thinking 81, did you remove the fuel pump? alot of times if you do have a bad pump the diaphram will leak gas into the crankcase also, if so be sure to change the oil a couple of times or the gas will wash down the cylinders, thats if gas got in there. concentrate on why you are not getting fuel to the pump. if you were a woman i would say put some gas in it
Eric

81nautique wrote: Wannabee, Did you put the fuel pump eccentric back on when you put the new timing chain in?

The cam-like thing on the timing chain that moves the pump arm? yep...

well if you sucked it and got it up, you shouldnt pull it though after its up. sorry these are your words,

anyways on the fuel push rod you have to find the low side of the cam and grease the rod so it holds up in there

I wonder if the coil is going also, I had spark but it wasnt like on my camaro. My car makes a serious blue arc when I test the coil, the boat doesnt, just a little spark. I have 12 volts at the coil so I know it's not power issue. I wish I had another coil to test it with. If the dist was 180 out then my timing chain wouldnt be on correctly because I put the rotor at the #1 tower while the dots were lined up.

Ok I did some testing and the ignition module is fine. I have 12 volts at the coil. I pulled all the plugs and some had a little bit of green corrosion so i'm going to change them today and i'm going to change the cap and rotor. I have a question though, I bought some timing tape because my balancer is messed up. I need to know how to install it on this reverse rotation engine so I can time for BDC. This is the tape I bought

79nautique wrote: think it's about time you paid someone to fix your boat, your really have some trouble on some basic stuff.

You're kidding me right? Nothing is going right with this damn boat. I built my car from the ground up and run 10.50's in a car that I drive to school everyday. I dont know what I did to piss off the motor gods with this boat. It's not like I started off with a good starting boat to begin with, after the first couple months I had to play with it for 30 min before I went to the ramp to make sure it was going to start. On another note, I replaced the cap and rotor today, going to do the plugs tomorrow and give it another shot. And how should I orient the timing tape?

old boy has been at it a while offer a lot of help, and now just getting to replacing the stuff that should have been replaced and check long ago, keeps saying has no problem fixing his hot rod but the boat's kicking his butt please just because the motor rotates the other way means nothing you still do the same stuff to fix it, worried about applying tape to get the timing right should be able to do it with out a timing light to start with just sounds like he's pissing in the wind and it's time to step back and let someone else take over, then again maybe it's a little tougher than just lining up the dots on the timing gears. Besides think this about the third thread he's started trying to get it going.

it will crank faster once you get the timing closer, all you have to do is rotate the dist very slightly one direction or the other, one way it will slow down more the other it will speed up. But if you have old crappy plugs, cap, rotor or wire that's not going to help and make it even worse.

like a said before get some old school mechanic that can tune carb'd motor's as well as a FI motor and it will be fixed in about 5 minutes.

well it will help if you can have someone else crank while your rotating the dist slowly until it fires and stays running you'll also want to have the throtle cable disconnected so you can run it with one hand and rotate the dist with the other to keep it going double check the firing order just incase you have some wires crossed ccw at the cap. also you will only need to rotate the dist maybe 5-10 degrees and don't have the clamp to loose just loose enough to rotate but still stay put once you let go.

you can go too far with the dist so just because it spins faster doesn't mean it's where it should go. you may have it advanced to much and need to back it off a little. just don't crank it for ever and give the battery a break. two full pumps on the throtle then crank but only the first time. another trick is to just screw down the idle screw so it's high to get the motor going then you can get the timing light out and dial it in to where it needs to be.

Ok I looked all over the carb and cant find a model number. I did however look at edelbrock's site and my carb looks exactly like the performer marine carb, the problem is, i dont know if it's the 750 or 600.

do your self a favor and invest in a Holley, go through and check out everything 79 is telling you too.
Every Edelbrock carb Ive had in the past always had starting issues... always had to crank the sh*t out of them. it maybe a coincidence with the starting problem, but Ive ran into this twice in the past and the last time i had a Holley 780 laying around and i threw a rebuild kit in it and bolted it on, it fired the car everytime with no more than 2 revolutions