Help separating coupler

Hey everyone, I'm new here. I recently bought my first Correct Craft, a 1989 Martinique. Bear with me because this is also my first inboard. Well I am trying to do an alignment. I saw Eric's how to and I think I understand everything. But the problem is that I can't get the coupler to separate. I took out the 4 bolts and tried to pull back on the propeller and hammer around the coupler with a wood chisel. This did nothing, so I tried a few other methods. I soaked it in PB blaster then tried to use a wood block to hammer the propeller backwards and I sprayed the strut bushings with wd-40. I even tried to heat it up and use a come along to separate it. It has still not moved at all, it's like it's fused together. I have spent a few hours just trying to get this coupler to separate and am getting frustrated. The odd thing is the coupler doesn't even look rusted but I doubt that the previous owner ever aligned it which is why I am doing it now. Any other I ideas on how to get this to separate? I am ready to just put it in the water and throw it in reverse. Just kidding. Thanks in advance for the help. -James

I used a pnewmatic chisel with a round tip and hit it in the area where the flange goes up. I used a slight angle to induce some rotation. It made a dent on the metal but at least the flange is fine. Even with a pnewmatic chisel it took a while. I try to put different lubricant in the strut bearing but the best thing was water. And to removed the couple the only that worked for me was using the socket in between with longer bolts. That was a lot of work.

OR:

Loosen the mounts and drop the front of the engine until it pops loose. Anytime you hit that shaft that goes into the tranny you are wearing onthe bearings and may damage your shaft.

Tim

So is this a stupid question... Why do we not all put anti-seize or something similar between the coupling and the transmission when re-installing, so the next time you go to take them apart it's easier? Or do you think by the time the coupling comes off again there would be no trace of any lubricant left? Or maybe it's a fine idea going forward but any boat you have to deal with that has not had this done is still a PITA to separate the two? Or am I behind the curve and this is common practice?

[QUOTE=stepper459] So is this a stupid question... Why do we not all put anti-seize or something similar between the coupling QUOTE]

It's not a stupid question. I agree that it is a good practice. The factory doesn't do it because it costs more!

Thanks for everyone's feedback. That thread was very helpful. I just have a few questions. I haven't taken anything apart yet so I don't know if my shaft is bent or not. But if it is bent, on that thread it was recommended to get a new shaft and coupler from general. Where can I find more information about this company, like how to contact them? My other question is, what is the bolt and socket method to removing the coupler? I kept seeing it mentioned but didn't see any details about it.

use the search feature for the phone#

Thanks for everyone's help. I am in the process of trying to press the shaft out of the coupler using the bolt and socket method. Unfortunately it's not going very well. I haven't given up yet though and I will keep everyone updated.

I try different ways and the bolt and socket was the only one that got things started. I finished with a bolt puller. I would like to hear other good ideas. For the next time.

If you use the socket method make sure you applie the same preassure to all 4 bolts. You can tell right way because it will bet harder to turn the shaft. Be patient, use plenty of WD40, and to get things moving ti takes a good preassure. At least mine was a PITA, I used an impact gun and set the preassure to the lowest setting. IMO, equal preassure was the key.

Thanks, I tried all the suggestions mentioned. It still hasn't moved at all. First I tried the bolt and socket method, it didn't budge even after I got the bolts so tight that I broke one of them. Then I started getting desperate so I unbolted the rear of the engine from the engine mounts and used a come along to lift the back of the engine so I would have more room to work. Then I was able to get this heavy duty timing gear puller on there. I cranked that down until I couldn't get it any tighter. This is after I soaked it PB Blaster. So I tried heating it and tapping it with a hammer and then I tried to tighten it some more. Nothing. So I have given up. I am assuming that if the boat took a hit hard enough to bend the prop and strut that the shaft is probably bent too. So I am just going to cut it out with a hacksaw.

James - welcome to the stuck coupler club - I just went thru that myself.

I found out (thanks Boat Dr.) that stainless steel (shaft)has a higher expansion rate than carbon steel (coupler) so heating it only makes it tigher!

well doesn't sound good but can you post some pictures of them so we can see how bad it is around the holes. Might not be something to worry about but with it being on both sides then that could be all of the way through and not just the gel cracking on the bottom and in that case something needs done.

sounds like PO might have hit something at one point and time.

James - Your tracking right behind me. See my saga from a couple months ago:

Cracks

Thanks for the link SNObsessed. So I guess I should just try to grind down to bare fiberglass to see if the fiberglass is OK. I don't have a dremel tool but I have a small grinding bit that goes on a drill. Would that be OK to use to grind off the gel coat? After I get down to bare fiberglass hopefully everything will look OK. Then to fill the grooves I will use some Marine Tex. I will probably be able to do this tomorrow or on Monday. I will report back with my findings.

James - I put down 3 overlapping layers of cloth on the inside of the hull, just to reinforce the area. If you have them precut, you can put them down with 1 mix, just saturate them 1 at a time. Boater's World had MAS epoxy onsale for $15 a while back. I was impressed with how easy MAS was to work with. Get the medium speed.

PS - Grind the area down to get thru the grey paint - also you should be pretty well down to the bottom of the cracks so your epoxy can penetrate into good substrate.