Bent rudder shaft

I dropped the boat on the ramp last year resulting in a bent prop, skeg and rudder. I had a spare prop(that sings)and a bud gave his old rudder( shaft worn a bit). Anyway I recall seeing on this site or another one where someone actually had there rudder shaft straightened by a prop shop but I can't remember where ( mine isn't bent that bad). I think it was in Tenn but not sure. Anyone ever had one repaired? If so where,how much and did they do agreat job. Prob. send the prop and rudder at same time. ( that's gonna cost some $$ for shipping.) Any info or imput would be appreciated.

I think KennyG had his straightened in Newtown OH. Where are you?
Rudders

MORFOOT , that was www.deltaprop.com
877-238-8214
whoever dose the repair,have it magnafluxed to check for cracks.

By the way 1287 & 1287L are only $170.00 Ea.!!!

I was unsuccessful in getting my rudder straightened. The shafts are very likely to crack when bent as was the case with mine. I decided to go ahead and spend the extra money on a tunable rudder as currently installed on new boats.

BTW, I was able to have my strut and one out of three skegs straigtened. Also, the prop shaft was trashed. All told, I think the new parts set me back about $2000.00

Prices sound reasonable. Inspect the rudder shaft closely for cracks. If you see any, do not bother sending it out. If you do not see cracks, you may be alright. However, cracks can develope when straightening the shaft, but only trying to straighten it will tell you this. Hopefully yours is not too bad and can be straightened successfully.

UPDATE!!   Just wanted to let ya'll know that I got the rudder shaft and the rebuilt prop back on the 1st and MAN was I impressed. The rudder straightening was only 27.00 and the prop rebuild was 100.00. Prop looks brand new Can't believe it was mine. Turn time was about 8 business days so anyone needing this done might wanna give Delta prop Co. a ring.

Speaking of shafts, I got me looking at my invoice for the double tapered shaft I purchased a couple months ago. FWIW, I paid $170.00 for the shaft (and another $110.00 for an aluminum coupler). But, more importantly, I looked at the cut sheets on the shaft and it shows three prop retention methods (must specify syle when ordering, I chose nylock):
1. Nut and jamb nut with cotter pin.
2. Nylock nut with cotter pin
3. Castle nut with cotter pin.

The important thing being that all methods inploy the cotter pin. Remember the post that someone lost their prop by only using the nylock nut? So anyone using just a nylock nut should add the cotter pin.

That is what I understand and it makes sense since there is a bar stock keyway at the taper and a nut retaining the shaft to/in the coupler. The coupler then has a set screw that tightens against the nut preventing it from loosening.

I once learned the hard way what happens when a shaft pulls out of the coupler. Ouch, it did a number on my prop and rudder. I then also learned that dimpling a straight shaft is a good idea...has not happened since. My '77 Martinique does not have the collar that I believe is supposed to help keep the prop from hitting the rudder.

Lee, Wow sorry to hear about your issues. Hurts, don't it? Call the guys at the prop shop for a price quote as my incident happened in 2005. Prices may be a little bit higher but you never know.

I'd say you have a bent rudder shaft and easiest way to be sure is to drop it out of the boat and look at it to see if it's bent. Your description sounds very familiar and brings nightmares. If your steering frees up after the rudder is out then I'd say you have a bent rudder and send it to Delta along with the prop.

I'd due a run out check on the shaft to see if it got damaged too by whatever you hit. You can do an alignment check but I don't think its necessary if the runout is good. Let us know what you come up with.