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    Posted: November-28-2008 at 6:01pm
Anyone familiar w/ this individual boat?

http://fortwayne.craigslist.org/boa/934234875.html
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote SNobsessed Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: November-28-2008 at 8:30pm
It's worth $450 just for the parts!
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Terp Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: November-28-2008 at 10:15pm
Stay tuned, just got off the phone w/ the seller. Pics pending. According to him It was a barn rescue. Needs new plywood but he thinks the skeleton is solid. Motor turns but he hasn't fired it. He's missing the bow light.   Chrome needs refinishing.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 86BFN Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: November-28-2008 at 11:04pm
John I'm 35 miles from Ft.Wayne, If I can help let me know. I know nothing about these old woodies, but I could pick up and store till spring.

It's gotta be worth more than that in parts, but sounds like a good project. Of course my wife say I don't need any more projects.


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Terp Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: November-29-2008 at 12:56am
All right guys, let me know what you think.











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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 8122pbrainard Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: November-29-2008 at 10:16am
This is the 16' Atom. Atoms were lengthened twice to handle larger engines. This 16 even was available with the small Y block V8.

It's going to need a down to the frame job. All brightwork ply (deck, cockpit side boards, hull sides and transom) needs to be replaced. If there isn't any rot in the bottom ply it may be saved. Solids like the dash can be saved by bleaching. You never know about the frames until you get the ply removed but I'd say work would be needed on the transom frame and stem. From the pictures, I do see the original wheel and step pads are missing. I don't feel it's the deluxe version because it has the standard plexi windshield.

John,
Does the engine turn over (not seized)?



John, Go back in a edit your post. Use the "enter" key between your pictures. The pictures will then stack top to bottom on the page instead of side to side. Makes the thread easier to read.


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Terp Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: November-29-2008 at 12:05pm
Pete, I was happy to see your response. I was particularly interested in yours, Paul's and Tim's thoughts. Thanks for the hint on the picture posting.

Tom (the owner) says the engine turns over, though he hasn't fired it.

I wondered about those step pads, I didn't think they looked right. He said aside from the bow light, all parts were intact but he also admitted he wasn't really familiar w/ the CC line. So I'm figuring there are additional missing stock items. Some hardware also appears to be missing from the dash. Is is particularly difficult to find original hardware for this year and model?   If I decide to get into this project I want to be as true to factory as possible.

Is re-working the transom frame and stem any more difficult than re-skinning the boat? If the original framework is unsuitable for use as a template will I be able to locate the appropriate templates? Tom ( a GC by trade) said the engine mount bolts were real solid/secure and he felt that most of the frame was solid.

What's involved w/ bleaching the solids?
What wood was used for the frame on these? Tom, thinks it is oak.
Is it difficult to find and/or swap out the I6 for the Y block V8 you mentioned?

Guys, keep in mind this would be a first for me, both the engine and boat restoration. It would probably take me at least two years as I have a full-time job and a horse farm to keep on top of. But I am really excited about this boat and it's potential and the experience in doing this. If I can count on you guys for help and advice via the forum my concerns about finding myself in over my head are greatly reduced.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Riley Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: November-29-2008 at 12:12pm
If your excited about it and have a place to keep it, buy it! You'll be amazed at what you can learn to do with a little motivation, patience and help from folks on CCF.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 8122pbrainard Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: November-29-2008 at 1:56pm
John,
It really depends on what is missing on the dash as to whether it's hard to find. The picture is dark and I really can't see specifics. So many times people will drill extra holes. If needed, a new wood dash isn't a major issue. The gauge panel is a Stewart Warner and can be rebuilt.

Frames are not Oak but rather Mahogany. They aren't hard to duplicate as usually there is only a small bad area. Easy to use as a pattern - No such things as templates. Re skinning the hull with new Mahogany ply isn't bad except for scarfing 8' sheets together to get the length needed.

Bleaching is simply using a wood bleach to remove all staining/spotting. This brings the wood back to one whitish color and then it's re stained.

I'd keep the 6 - It's a very suitable engine for the boat. Finding a 260 Ford Y block isn't going to be easy plus it's a very heavy engine and a small Cu.in./HP The power to weight ratio isn't there. I wouldn't be surprised if the 6 out performs the 8.


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Terp Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: November-29-2008 at 4:21pm
Pete, what do you mean by "scarfing together"? Similar to dovetailing or mortising?   Where do you find the solid mahogany and marine grade mahogany plywood?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 8122pbrainard Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: November-29-2008 at 5:00pm
John,
Scarfing is a long bevel on both edges of wood so it can be glued (epoxy) together forming a longer length. With todays plywoods, this isn't easy. The face veneers have gotten so thin (less than a 64") that you have no sanding room meaning the scarf must be perfect. Also, if the epoxy gets on this face veneer, it will interfere with the wood taking a stain. This means the ply must be pre filler/stained and several coats of varnish put on before cutting the scarf and gluing. The other issue with scarfing is no one makes a decent jig for cutting!!

The mahogany ply is still available but typically only through specialty type lumber distributors. Solids can be found at hardwood lumber supplies.

BTW, are you sure it's a Atom and not the Compact? I'm asking because of the single piece plexi windshield and the 6cyl. engine.

Edit: Regarding the Mahogany used for the frames. The main stringers would be Doug Fir.


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Terp Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: November-29-2008 at 10:20pm
Ok, I have a buddy who owns a cabinet shop (many types of power saws!) Any particular blades you would recommend for the scarfing, or for any other special cuts for that matter.

No, I'm not sure it's an Atom. The seller thinks it is but again, he's not overly familiar w/ CCs. I'm not familiar enough with them yet to tell from the pics. He says he doesn't have a title, but I think I remember him saying he found the factory plate. Did the plates state the model name back then or just #s etc.?

If they did just have numbers, is there a code that IDs the model?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 8122pbrainard Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: November-29-2008 at 11:00pm
Originally posted by Terp Terp wrote:

Ok, I have a buddy who owns a cabinet shop (many types of power saws!) Any particular blades you would recommend for the scarfing, or for any other special cuts for that matter.

he found the factory plate. Did the plates state the model name back then or just #s etc.?

If they did just have numbers, is there a code that IDs the model?


Scarfing isn't matter of having the correct blades or saws but the method used. Since cabinet shops don't use the joint, he won't be equipped to cut the scarf. A properly made scarf will have a length to ply thickness ratio of 8 to 10. That means the bevel on both edges of 3/8" ply is 3" to 3&3/4" long. Normal cabinet shop equipment can't cut that shallow of a angle. I have been toying with the idea of using a router with a large mortising bit to cut the angle but that's the easy part. Fixturing the router on the proper angle plus allowing it to linearly traverse the edge while maintaining absolute rigidity is the problem!! Clamping the plywood is a must too.

West system (the epoxy people) makes a attachment for a hand held power saw (skil saw) but it will not be accurate enough for the bright finished ply. (the scarf will be rough and it will show) The result will be the same using a hand held belt sander or power plane.

Yes, the model can be ID'd with the factory serial number. It will start with two letters. "AS" will be for Atom Skier and "CS" will be Compact Skier


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Terp Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: November-30-2008 at 12:47am
So what do you do?   Is there an alternative method? Are there alternative materials? Or do you just keep ruining expensive mahogany ply until you get it right?

Were there structural differences between the Atom and the CS or was it a matter of different engines and different trim?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 75 Tique Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: November-30-2008 at 12:59am
There are places that will sell you 16' scarfed panels. but I would guess you would need one close to you and also have some way to transport it.

marine plywood and scarfing

Pete,

Were all the old plywood boats scarfed? I've read about butt joints as an alternative, but were they not used, even on the cheaper CC boats?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Terp Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: November-30-2008 at 1:19am
Larry, thanks for the link. The scarfed ply they have is already glued so that will pose a problem with staining. They don't mention scarf cuts on their custom cut page so I'll have to wait until Monday and call to find out if they can make the cut and ship as such. I imagine it would be pretty fragile to ship it that way though.

BTW, found this helpful link:
http://www.boat-links.com/scarf_bevels.html
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote FINS Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: November-30-2008 at 2:53am
Nice find, Terp! Welcome to the woody Correct Craft Club! You can see your factory scarf joint pretty clearly right at the front seat stucture. The factory joints were pretty nice, but I would be wary of buying pre-scarfed plywood. Most of it is set up for a painted finish. Structurally, it is great, but the finish is not the best as Pete mentioned. I would start by researching the model and options. If it had a painted hull side originally, it makes the selection much easier since you can use fillers and fair the joint. I am just starting to strip down the hardware on my '60 Atom to turn it over to a professional restoration shop for a complete rebuild. Rob Dapron here in the Northwest is going to do all the woodwork and has been calling his suppliers to try and source some 16 foot plywood (custom cut without the joint). I will let you know if he has any luck.

You didn't mention if you went ahead and bought the boat. Let us know how it turns out! A few other things to consider if you have not bought it yet is the hardware. Like Pete said, finding some of the "bits and pieces" can be expensive. I do not see any of the name plates in your pictures. Other than that, it looks to be mostly intact. Things like the ski pylon, foot throttle, gauges, and engine box look identical to my '58 and '60.

Good luck with the project!
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 8122pbrainard Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: November-30-2008 at 10:50am
Larry,
Scarfed ply was very common with all the ply boat builders. All the ply CC's I've seen are scarfed. Higgins too and they also were a less expensive boat. I feel scarfing was a offshoot of building ply landing craft (and one model of PT's) from the war. It was done at the mill with some rather large pieces of equipment. Phenolic resins (same as bonding the plys together) were used which didn't soak into the wood as much like epoxies do. Also, the face veneer was sanded after scarfing. They must have really started with a very thick face. My face veneer on my X55 is close to a 1/8" so I'd have to say before sanding it was better than 3/16". The last provider of scarfed panels was Harbor sales I believe in Boston. It was the early 80's when I got the last of the scarfed out of them and at that time it was for painted applications only. They no longer had the thick face veneer/post sanding set up for bright work. Boulter has a jig but basically it is a non accurate hand operation.

Butt blocking has a couple disadvantages. The biggest is you will get a very defined line at the joint very visible with a bright panel (Brian, Johns boat is bright whether it's a Atom or a Compact) A scarf produces a "feathered" edge very difficult to see. My X's scarfs you really need to look for them up close. The block itself also produces a flat spot on the face because it doesn't allow the ply to flex as much around the hull. Not too bad towards the aft where the panel is relatively flat but the aft is also the most visible spot where you don't want the joint showing! The butt joint is also on the weak side. Because the cross section of the ply edges is so small, very little bonding takes place so any stress from flexing of the panel must go through the butt block itself. If flexed enough, it will create so much stress on the joint at the ply edge that it is prone to fracturing at that point. The block will hold it but you'll end up with a crack. I've seen two failures. Both were on home built ply boats using epoxy.

John,
I don't feel there were any structural differences between the Atom and Compact. It was trim level only. The late 50's is when the Atom started to be built as a higher level "premium" boat.


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Terp Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: November-30-2008 at 2:55pm
Brian, thanks for the welcome and yes, I would appreciate hearing what your guy finds out about the plywood. No I haven't actually made the purchase and acquired the boat yet. I left a message for the seller this AM telling him I would buy it but haven't heard back yet.

I'll need to figure out what I'm going to do about picking it up. I hate to haul a flat bed several hundred miles just to find out the trailer is in fine shape. Steve (86BFN), if you happen to be in the Fort Wayne area over the next couple of days would you be willing to take a look at the trailer and let me know what you think?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote FINS Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: November-30-2008 at 4:40pm
Hope the sale all works out for you! Looks like a great project. I did notice after I posted that it is a bright finish regardless of the model. I am leaning toward scarfing the plywood at Rob's shop. If he can replank a 20' Chris Craft Custom (3 of them now) and refinish a Riva, I would trust him with a scarf! If the original had the scarf joint, I don't see much value in trying to make it dissapear in a rebuild. Either way, I will keep you posted.

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 8122pbrainard Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: November-30-2008 at 4:50pm
Brian,
I don't feel he's going to have any luck finding longer than 10' sheets of ply. 10's are around but beyond that the ply mills just aren't set up for it. It's just not the presses but also you need the long 16' logs and a 16' veneer lathes too. They never have been set up beyond 12' and the reason the scarf was created.


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Terp Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: November-30-2008 at 5:05pm
Well I have a verbal agreement w/ the seller. Just got off the phone. I'm targeting 11 Dec to go pick it up.

How would you guys haul it? He says the trailer frame is real solid channel w/ only surface rust. The tires are an old size I'm not familiar w/.... G7815...a 15" wheel/tire I presume, sound right?   My thoughts were to put new tires on, pack the bearings, strap the boat down nice and snug, hang a safety triangle (no lights) and hit the road. Otherwise I'm hauling a flatbed out and back.   What do you think?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote TRBenj Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: November-30-2008 at 5:23pm
Better to be safe than sorry on a long return trip. Ive found it easy enough to put the whole thing on a car hauler if Im not confident in the trailer's condition.



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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Riley Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: November-30-2008 at 5:46pm
I've done the same thing. What I found out when arranging to go get our '62 Classic is that you don't know what is on the trailer. The PO agreed to put new tires and bearings on it only to find out that there were 2 different hubs on it and the original hub took really unusual bearings that would be hard to find especially if we had to go searching while broken down on the road.

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Terp Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: November-30-2008 at 5:56pm
Thanks guys. Tim, I remember seeing the 'Tique photo on a much earlier post, I think from when you first picked it up.
And yet another question.... I see you and Bruce put them on tongue first. Winched on? How did you back them off safely?

An yet another question pertaining to this boat but a different topic. Any experience with untitled boats/trailers. The seller has no title for either. Should I start another thread?

Bruce what boat is that?! Looks straight out of a Bond or Batman flick!
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Riley Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: November-30-2008 at 6:01pm
That's a 1961 Custom Craft Manta Ray that I found in a filed in Albany, ME. I sold it when the Mustang became available.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 86BFN Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: November-30-2008 at 7:18pm
Originally posted by Terp Terp wrote:

Steve (86BFN), if you happen to be in the Fort Wayne area over the next couple of days would you be willing to take a look at the trailer and let me know what you think?


John, I could possible go tommorrow on my way home from work. Although I think that others have the better idea of loading the whole thing on a flat bed and hauling home. It looks to me like the trailer has car tires on it. i.e. white wall tires.(not good). If you could rent a flat bed (car transpoter) for one way that would save you from having to bring a trailer to Fort Wayne. I counted 10 U-haul locations in Ft. Wayne from a quick goggle search.

When I bought my boat (out of state) I did not get a trailer title. I didn't have any trouble getting one with a bill of sale but the trailer did have legible number on it.

Let me know what you find out.

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 8122pbrainard Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: November-30-2008 at 8:46pm
Originally posted by 86BFN 86BFN wrote:


It looks to me like the trailer has car tires on it. i.e. white wall tires.(not good).



I really don't feel G78 15" are going to be a problem handling a boat and trailer weighing about 1500lbs. However, it's a good idea to put the boat/trailer on the car carrier. The alternate of course is new tires and bearings. Not something you want to do somewhere and then run into problems.

These tires are 12" wide whitewall reproductions. The load rating is only 200 pounds above the weight of the boat and trailer. No problems - they run cool.



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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote JoeinNY Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: November-30-2008 at 8:55pm
If you think his trailer is clean you really ought to see the boat some day...
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 86BFN Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: November-30-2008 at 9:09pm
Originally posted by JoeinNY JoeinNY wrote:

If you think his trailer is clean you really ought to see the boat some day...

Pete, they look cool too!

I'll make it reunion some time but I don't think it will be in 09.
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