Hellroaring Battery Isolator / Combiners

A perko switch is 30 or 40 bucks at overtons. It's a battery selector switch.

I can't believe no one has seen or used one of these...

Anyway, I ordered one and got it last week and have started to think about how I am going to mount and wire it. The guy I talked to at Hellroaring said that it would be best to mount it as close to the starter as possible

I think I want to mount it to the aluminum under the engine cover. I'm not sure if this is a good idea or not. if it is a suitable location, what type of screws should I use to mount it?

I took some pics showing the size and where I want to place it...

I have heard good things about the Hellroaring. I went with the Yandina; basically the same concept. So far its worked very well.

I would suggest installing a perko along with the combiner. Just leave it in the 1 position for automatic charging/isolating, but you still have the option to switch over to the stereo battery if needed. I had a draw on my starting battery early in the season and was glad I was able to switch over to the bluetop to get the boat started.

I'd be worried about that mounting location in the event that the bilge fills to capacity, e.g. during a rainstorm without a cover, etc.

M3Fan wrote: I'd be worried about that mounting location in the event that the bilge fills to capacity, e.g. during a rainstorm without a cover, etc.

Good point Joel, was not really thinking of that...   but, on the other hand, when the boat is not being used it is stored in the garage. Besides if the water would get that high in the bilge I would also have a wet starter and starting batttery which is in the back of the bilge. the isolator/combiner is supposed to be waterproof and looks like it is sealed, so I doubt it would be damaged even if under water.

BTW, can anyone tell me how many amps my stock alternator will put out?

Edit: the alternator puts out 51A, found it printed on the back of the alternator.

Bremsen,

The Hellroaring combiner is not wired so that the house battery is charged before the starting battery. Once the engine is running both batteries are being charged. At least this is what the guy from hellroaring told me.

The more I think about this... as long as everything is run to the aux/house battery including the amp, head unit, lights, bilge pumps , etc. There will not be any drain on the starting battery. Then, the only way you would have a problem starting the engine, is if there is a problem with the connection to the starting battery. And you could always swap the starting battery with the aux battery if the starting battery had a problem. I think I will go ahead and wire the remote switch and LED simply because if the starting battery is weak from sitting for a while I could always draw off of the aux to give it a boost. The LED is supposed to provide diagnostic information.

Randy_in_Ohio wrote: M3Fan wrote: I'd be worried about that mounting location in the event that the bilge fills to capacity, e.g. during a rainstorm without a cover, etc. Good point Joel, was not really thinking of that...   but, on the other hand, when the boat is not being used it is stored in the garage. Besides if the water would get that high in the bilge I would also have a wet starter and starting batttery which is in the back of the bilge. the isolator/combiner is supposed to be waterproof and looks like it is sealed, so I doubt it would be damaged even if under water.

well are you going to seal the connections once you run the wires and they are connected to the post way down low in the bilge. And I don't see how mounting it where you are in the postion you show is going to make it higher than the starter as the start can see a little water and still operate, the isolator can't, because as soon has the water hits those stud terminals it will short across them and burn everything up in the process and then now how are you going to start the boat to run the bilge and empty the water.

What about the time when you forget to install the drain plug, how about the packing flax going out on you, there tons of unforseen scenerio's where water can and will get up to those lower connections and not touch the starter and you dead in the water with no means to remove the water entering the boat. But by then it's to late to say I should have mounted it here instead of where I did.

Tim, I am thinking about moving the lights and definitely the head unit over to the aux battery maybe some other things as well, I am going to look at it this weekend and see how much work it will be.

As far as placement of the combiner/isolator, I will take a look this weekend and see if I can find a better place to mount it. I'm thinking there may be someplace in the back I could mount it, Maybe I can find space for the second battery near the fuel tank. I want to keep the cable length down as much as possible.

Bremsen, You were right, the BIC will charge the Aux. battery before the starting battery, if set up like the diagram shown in the first post.

After you mentioned that and I started looking at it... it all started to make sense. I called and talked to Mike from Hellroaring. Mike is a great guy and has been very helpful with this project. I explained what I was trying to do and he told me that I should be using the basic auxiliary isolation method. This setup will isolate the Aux. battery from the starting battery when the engine is off and, once the engine is running , will charge the starting battery first and then switch on at 13.4V and combine the batteries so that both are connected to the alternator.

Here is a diagram:



Thanks Ryan for bringing this up.

aka,

yes, I did get this set up and it worked out great!

I have two Optima blue top batteries with the Hellroaring unit isolating the starting battery when the engine is off. I no longer worry about running the battery dead while floating around with the stereo on.

I highly recommend this product.

I think I got the hellroaring model BIC-95150B. I'll double check later after I'm home.
The Optima Blue top batteries only come in one model... Remember to read everything carefully, you must be sure to use the correct length and gage of wire or you will fry your alternator.

Mike at hellroaring was very helpful when I needed help setting it up.

Joe said he had two of the D34Ms in his boat. I thought the D stood for deep cycle but maybe it stands for Dual? I guess I will start with the starter battery until I get the stereo in and then add the Deep cycle. I am building my own battery box so I can make room for both of them when I am ready to add the second.

Sorry Randy I am confused then. You don't have two optimas? One starting battery and one deep cycle? Do you have two of the same or do you have one optima and one different battery all together?

I didn't know they carried them at Sams! That's good to know. I will go check them out tomorrow!

Later!

akabulla wrote: Joe said he had two of the D34Ms in his boat. I thought the D stood for deep cycle but maybe it stands for Dual?

All the technical info is on Optima's website.