95 SuperSport Engine Question

Another question, one post someone mentioned the fuse after the battery caused them a bunch of issues and once removed it helped. Could that be an issue? My buddy seems to remember seeing it corroded/oxidized. Also did not check the screen in top of the LP so I will do that as well.

I think that was lewy and his 98 Sport. If I recall it was a PCM tech bulletin he had found.

burban89 wrote: the alt case snapped at bolt hole. the bolt in the starter solenoid stripped.

You must have strong arms!!

Ok so a new development. The boat will not go over 3500. Rpms. It surges and the rpms drop and come back up. So any ideas?
I am guessing it was not going over 3500 Rpms the whole time and I didn't make that connection.

Fuel pumps new
Alternator new- made a big difference on voltage, other must have been going bad
Starter solenoid new
Fuel and ECM relay new
Kill switch direct wired


Any ideas? What can I test now? I need all the help

I am going to try unhooking oil pressure sensor and temp sensor tonight to see if maybe its that. What rpms are people turning at 24 mph? Maybe my rpm gauge is off.

Don't mean to hijack this thread, but I am having a very similar problem with my 1990 carburated Sport Nautique with a Ford 351 PCM engine. After about an hour of running perfectly at high RPMs, the engine bogs down and won't go over about 3,000 RPM. It almost feels like there is seaweed around the prop, but it is indeed clear. I did have the carb rebuilt by a quality shop before this started happening, but both the shop owner and I think it is strange that the engine runs beautifully for so long, and then begins bogging down. do you think the oil and temp sender could be a problem on my engine? Or does that feature referred to above (the engine shutting down intentionally when oil pressure drops or temp increases too hot)only pertain to fuel injected, newer engines? Any response today would be greatly appreciated, as I am out at the Colorado River and debated whether or not to tow the boat back home in San Diego!

If you have the Protec ignition it will go to limp mode if a over temp or low oil pressure condition is detected. Limp mode limits the RPM's. There are two switches on the engine that look like temp and oil sending units. The oil switch is near the oil filter and the temp switch is on the front of the intake manifold. You can disconnect both of them and the Protec will operate normally. Your engine will also have oil and temp sending units that drive your gauges. If you disconnect the wrong ones it won't hurt anything but your gauges won't read correctly. I would disconnect the switches and see if you still have a problem. If it goes away then connect one at a time to see which one is malfunctioning. Good Luck.

I think we solved my problem last night or at least hope so. We replaced the fuel filter even though it was only a year old and every thing seemed to run better. I dumped the fuel from the filter into a bottle and it was all dark and dirty, just a few weeks ago it was clear. I am still not 100% sure it is fixed but we had some good runs last night with no stuttering and will give it a full test this weekend if the weather holds out.

Protec systems generate spark from coil packs located above the bell housing at the rear of the engine. Easiest way to tell if you have a protec is to see where your spark plug wires come from. If they come from the back, it's a protec. If they come from a distributor in front of your carb it's not. If it is a protec, take a look at the coil packs for a brownish sticky goo (epoxy like) substance leaking from them. If you find this, the system is likely shot and it would be easiest to do the Mallory electronic distributor conversion from ski-dim to get back on the water quickly and easily. Other guys gave done other DUI distributor conversions but that requires tapping in to the wire harness, where as the kit is basically plug and play. Your looking at about $500 for the kit if I recall correctly.

Kyle