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    Posted: April-06-2008 at 1:13am
I did a search for this and could only find one post.

What is the best way to set up for checking everything out before the lake?

I would like to start doing most of the work myself but haven't bought a "fake-a-lake" as of yet. The last place that "summerized"(I know i got screwed) had a contraption that hooked up to the bottom of the RWP with a hose?

Thanks
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 75 Tique Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: April-06-2008 at 1:56am
Here is one discussion about fake-a-lakes and plumbing in fittings.

one discussion

Most people just disconnect the raw water intake hose from the thru-hull fitting and stick a garden hose into it, and retighten the hose clamp. One cautionary note with that arrangement, if you rev the motor the water pump will over draw the hose and collapse the hose, cutting off the water. Another method is to use a short length of hose connected to your raw water intake hose (similar to above) and put that small length of hose into a bucket. Have your garden hose running into the bucket and have the motor draw from the bucket. Keep you eye on it to make sure you dont out pace the hose filling the bucket.

From my own experience, the bucket method is better. I used the hose method, which forced water into my engine. I therefore didnt recognize that my raw water pump was starting to fail, which it did later in the season. Using the bucket method, you are also testing your pump.

Finally, don't shift your boat into forward or reverse in the driveway. The strut bearing and shaft log are lubed by lake water and running them dry will fry them.   
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Hollywood Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: April-06-2008 at 2:13am
Might want to spray the cutlass bearing with some water incase the trans sticks a little, as it did on me today for the first start of the year. Light foot pressure should stop the shaft from spinning.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 62 wood Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: April-06-2008 at 2:33am
Originally posted by Hollywood Hollywood wrote:

Might want to spray the cutlass bearing with some water incase the trans sticks a little, as it did on me today for the first start of the year. Light foot pressure should stop the shaft from spinning.


I used to spray the bearing with cooking oil. Now I lightly clamp a vise grip on the prop shaft to keep it from spinning when starting the boat in the drive.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote behindpropeller Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: April-06-2008 at 10:55am
Originally posted by 62 wood 62 wood wrote:

Originally posted by Hollywood Hollywood wrote:

Might want to spray the cutlass bearing with some water incase the trans sticks a little, as it did on me today for the first start of the year. Light foot pressure should stop the shaft from spinning.


I used to spray the bearing with cooking oil. Now I lightly clamp a vise grip on the prop shaft to keep it from spinning when starting the boat in the drive.


Don't use ANY kind of clamping tool (unless it is in a lathe) on the drive shaft. Once you nick the shaft t you will create a stress riser and that is where it will break!! You have tranny problems if you can't get the shaft to stop spinning and it is also a safety hazard.

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote heath Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: April-06-2008 at 12:03pm
I've got two fake-a-lakes I just bought last year that I would be willing to sale if anyone is interested...had to buy two since my boat has two pickups.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote eric lavine Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: April-06-2008 at 1:35pm
62, its vice grips or have your best friend hold it, i actually will hold it after i fire the boat with a c-clamp with a v-welded to it so the prop won turn, the strut gets hot quick and will break down the buna rubber in a hurry, ive burned them up before along with about 10 impellers cause the ear muffs fell off and i got a phone call and forgot it was running. i siezed an outboard last year finding out the muffs fell off...try to explain that to the owner *************** happens, all the time
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 8122pbrainard Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: April-06-2008 at 1:42pm
Originally posted by behindpropeller behindpropeller wrote:

Originally posted by 62 wood 62 wood wrote:

Originally posted by Hollywood Hollywood wrote:

Might want to spray the cutlass bearing with some water incase the trans sticks a little, as it did on me today for the first start of the year. Light foot pressure should stop the shaft from spinning.


I used to spray the bearing with cooking oil. Now I lightly clamp a vise grip on the prop shaft to keep it from spinning when starting the boat in the drive.


Don't use ANY kind of clamping tool (unless it is in a lathe) on the drive shaft. Once you nick the shaft t you will create a stress riser and that is where it will break!! You have tranny problems if you can't get the shaft to stop spinning and it is also a safety hazard.


So how much force must be applied to create a "stress riser"? Is it more than the set screws in the shaft coupling? How about the key ways cut in the shaft - does that set up a "stress riser"?


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote shawnmc Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: April-06-2008 at 6:10pm
how much heath?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote heath Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: April-06-2008 at 8:19pm
$25 each plus shipping...they've only been used one time
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote joed Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: April-06-2008 at 8:29pm
I made my own fake-a-lake for less than $10 with parts from the hardware. A cheap plunger and a gardenhose fitting with an on/off valve. Cut a hole in the side of the plunger to insert the fitting, backed up with a nut on the inside. Works great!

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote shawnmc Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: April-06-2008 at 8:50pm
thanks joe. I am probably leaning toward that or just taking the intake hose of the RWP and using the bucket techinque.

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Hollywood Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: April-06-2008 at 9:34pm
Originally posted by behindpropeller behindpropeller wrote:

You have tranny problems if you can't get the shaft to stop spinning and it is also a safety hazard.


It will stop spinning with very light pressure, and actually stayed stopped the rest of the time it was running. Just that initial start up.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote wakesurfer Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: April-28-2008 at 10:00am
Help! My transmission doesnt seem to want to stop turning, I took my cables off to replace them, but thought It would stay in neutral manually. Any ideas?

I use the garden hose in the bottom intake, as my screen is missing? Anyone know where I can get a screen too?

Cheers.
Jamie

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Kristof Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: April-28-2008 at 10:17am
Originally posted by behindpropeller behindpropeller wrote:

You have tranny problems if you can't get the shaft to stop spinning and it is also a safety hazard.


My shaft also spins very slowly at idle as mentionned here

I can hold the shaft with very little effort on it (almost with two fingers so to speak). So IMHO, the stress on the shaft is minimal...

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 8122pbrainard Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: April-28-2008 at 10:22am
Intake strainer/thru hull



Jamie, You say the trans won't stop turning? Have you tried to stop it and if so, how? Have you had this boat out on the water yet? Did the PO say anthing about trans problems? It sounds like you may have the typical old age issue with warped plates in the trans. I'm sure Eric will comment soon.


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote wakesurfer Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: April-28-2008 at 4:01pm
Thanks!

I put it in the water, and the prop always moved a little bit even when the button was pulled and it was in reverse...

however, my cables were old and the shifter super stiff at the time.

still hoping it is not the trany, as I just bought the boat ant the PO said all was good w the trans.

Any ideas?

Thanks for all the input.
jamie

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote wakesurfer Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: April-28-2008 at 4:04pm

I missed typed above...

I meant to say "I pulled the neutral button and it still moved."


What size is the measurement for on the strainer?

The hull hole or the water tubing?

The obvious overzealous newbie.
jamie

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote wakesurfer Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: April-28-2008 at 4:14pm

Regarding the trans...

I checked the trans fluid not trans oil.

same thing or different.

trans fluid - looks full and pink?

Last Changed ?

Could this make my trany spin?


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote BuffaloBFN Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: April-28-2008 at 4:59pm
Originally posted by wakesurfer wakesurfer wrote:

trans fluid - looks full and pink?


Oh nooo! Do a search for trans fluid or milkshake.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote wakesurfer Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: April-28-2008 at 9:36pm

How about the issue of a drive shaft that want to move all the time?

Anyone have the same thing.... Remedy?

Fluids or Flames!

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 8122pbrainard Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: April-28-2008 at 10:07pm
Originally posted by 8122pbrainard 8122pbrainard wrote:


It sounds like you may have the typical old age issue with warped plates in the trans.


Jamie, Slow down and read the posts!!
Well, If the fluid is a pink milkshake, then it means you have water in the trans. If so plus the plates dragging in neutral, I'd have to say it should go for a rebuild. You will need to find out where the water came from. Check the oil cooler for leaks.
The button at the helm does not put the trans in neutral. It keeps it in neutral while you advance the throttle.
Jamie, Is this your first boat?


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote wakesurfer Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: April-29-2008 at 1:04am

Hello Grand POOBAHH!

I have seen your post almost everywhere. Slow down? I am ADHD and I have a serious coffee addiction. And yes this is my first boat that I maintain. I have appreciated all your insight and rejoice knowing that I folks like you can help a newbie like me. cheers.

TODAY
I pumped out the old trany fluid. Looked like dark red to black muck... Remedy - put in new trany fluid and ran for a few minutes shifting back and forth... still the engine hates neutral - however, I did read the post enough to see this is a common problem... I can stop it by hand no problem, yet the prop still wants to turn fwd or reverse. It seemed to help a little bit when it started to warm up.

I called the PO and he said its done it for years, and he claimed it was expected from the velvet drives?

wow. my bad... no lake test!

Regardless, I was wondering if you recommend any additives or other solutions rather than a rebuild.

I guess my skiers will have to swim fast to catch the boat!

Slow down you move to fast... got to make the moment last, just ---- and feelin groovy, feeling groovy.

Jamie









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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 8122pbrainard Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: April-29-2008 at 8:47am
Jamie, I just wanted to make sure you did read the responce to your question. I've seen it many times where people in their rush to get a boat in the water don't take the time to review answers or go though previous threads. They will make multiple posts with the same question and then even get upset when no one responds.

Do get the boat in the water and try it. I'm also glad to hear that the prop shaft can be stopped by hand. It's something you hadn't mentioned before. Some slippage in neutral is normal but also may be showing some age. The clutch plates are starting to drag.

You had described the trans fluid as pink rather than red. Glad to hear that it is red (but dirty). The pink would indicate that water was mixed in - not a good thing! Did you use Eric's method of overfilling and then pumping it out the hose to the cooler? It's the easy way but one of the tricks from a tranmission specialist.

Regarding the additives, I know from previous threads that Eric does like them but not for the reasons you are needing. They give him more work!!!

Have you checked you gas gauge sender yet?

What did you find on the swim platform bolts?

I know you said you ordered new shift/throttle cables - any problems getting the new ones in?

How about the black/white plastic CC tags? Did you go the White Lake route?

The stern nav light should be a Attwood "stowaway". I would remove the base and take it to a marine supply like West and be sure the new one will fit.


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote wakesurfer Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May-04-2008 at 12:15pm
Well, today will be the tester... I installed the new cables, hard learning experience.. the whole push and pull levers were tricky, yet, w enough beer and tranquil music I installed the new red jacket cables. It shifts like butter now!

A few new developments worth running by the poohhbbah:

I used comet on the hull were the lake stains once were - It seemed like a wetsand and bleaching mixture, does this hurt the gel coat?

still need the odds and ends.

Thanks for all your help.
Jamie


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote eric lavine Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May-04-2008 at 12:19pm
wake, it will lightly scratch the hull if you use comet, if you did already you may have to buff
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 8122pbrainard Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May-04-2008 at 7:06pm
Jamie, Eric is correct that the Comet is a abrasive and will scratch. No harm done because it can be buffed out. A abrasive wet sand is the first step on real bad gel restoration. The difference is with wet/dry paper, you have control over the amount of abrasive - the grit.

You may want to read some of the threads on hull cleaning the lake stains. There are several and lots of good recommendations on products designed for it. I boat on lakes with tannins in the water and if in that water for very long it will stain the gel a orange color. I use one of the hull cleaners with oxalic acic. Wipe it on and wipe it off.


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote wakesurfer Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May-06-2008 at 2:22am

Hey gents: Thanks for the comet insight.

Well the first day was good... yet.

The engine Ran HOT! Not overheat hot, just 180 hot.

The engine ran constantly at 180. Hard to start at 180. Easy at 140.

It is WAY toooo hot as the engine likes 160. she purrrrss

THe idle has been set by PO, at 1000 RPM's thats why I am getting the FWD speed in neutral!!

I tried to turn it down the idle to 800 yet the engine hates its newer idle speed due to the fact that it is running at 180 to 185.

It likes 600 - 800 rpms when at 140-160 temp.

I think it is a coolant issue. Any ideas?

Is there a RWP and Impeller Pump on these 1977 Ford 351
PCM's? two pumps or just one?

Could not turn off engine ... due to toooo hot of engine start, as you know these 351 engines like to be at under 180. at least mine does.

COuld ski fine just not turn off engine - NO fun.

From impeller to intake all is good. hoses, impeller blades the lot... Is there another pump?


Yet, we skied hard and had to swim after the boat.

diehards.
the lake hamilton gang.




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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 8122pbrainard Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May-06-2008 at 7:41am
Jamie, You have two pumps. The RWP is the one with the rubber impeller. It sucks up water from the lake and then if the themostat is closed puts it out through the exhaust. If the thermostat is open then the lake water goes through the block first. The second pump is the circulation pump just like on a car. It does exactly that - circulates water constantly through the engine.

I would say that the 180 isn't that hot. You may have other issues. Have you checked to see if the choke is working properly at the different temps?


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote wakesurfer Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May-06-2008 at 9:47am

I have not checked the choke... not sure how?

PO mention no tune up done in several years...

New plugs and wires may clean it up.

The RWP seems to be original and faintly sucking from the bucket test.


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