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oil recomedations......confused

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote nc2001 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Topic: oil recomedations......confused
    Posted: April-08-2008 at 1:57am
ok so I am a little confused about the recent oil changing thread. If I am changing my oil in my 1988 pcm what oil should I use????
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote TRBenj Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: April-08-2008 at 11:59am
Either straight weight Shell Rotella-T (30w or 40w) or Valvoline Racing VR1 (I prefer the 20w50).
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote almabes Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: April-08-2008 at 12:29pm
So am I...I have seen recommendations for everything from Diesel engine oil, to Valvoline racing oil, to you name it.

Before the confusion of the last thread, I changed my oil with Castrol GTX 10W40. Since the Zinc and Phosphorus level in the oil is low (800 ppm) for our old, flat tappet engines, I'm going to add a bottle of STP Oil treatment. It contains ZDDP, which is what the "New and Improved" API SM oil is lacking.

Next oil change, I'm going to use some 4-Stroke Motorcycle or ATV 10W40. It has an appropriate level of Zinc and Phoshorus (at least 1200 ppm). It carries the "obsolete" API service code SF/SG.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote anthonylizardi Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: April-15-2008 at 8:16pm
After reading thread and asking around my preference would be Mobil 1 Synthetic + ZDDP. The Valvoline Racing VR1 would be my second option. I know Rotella is a good option but there is a chance that it can foam at sustained high RPM's. I know, the chances this might happen are rare, but IMO is a small chance I don't want to deal with.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote backfoot100 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: April-16-2008 at 12:30pm
Originally posted by anthonylizardi anthonylizardi wrote:

After reading thread and asking around my preference would be Mobil 1 Synthetic + ZDDP. The Valvoline Racing VR1 would be my second option. I know Rotella is a good option but there is a chance that it can foam at sustained high RPM's. I know, the chances this might happen are rare, but IMO is a small chance I don't want to deal with.


Anthony,
I run M1 15W-50 in my engine and I turned a friend ('97 SN GT40) and my brother-in-law('92 SN) onto it also. None of us have had any issues at all. Don't waste your money on any any additives. You'll be fine without it.

When people run down to the lake to see what's making that noise, you've succeeded.



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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote JoeinNY Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: April-16-2008 at 1:45pm
If your going to use mobil 1 in your flat tappet engine consider using the extended performance version, because it is intended for longer oil change intervals it has the highest level of ZDDP.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote backfoot100 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: April-16-2008 at 7:53pm
Originally posted by JoeinNY JoeinNY wrote:

If your going to use mobil 1 in your flat tappet engine consider using the extended performance version, because it is intended for longer oil change intervals it has the highest level of ZDDP.


Actually Joe, the High Mileage version and the 15W-50 are the highest levels of ZDDP (that you'll be able to find in most retail outlets anyway). There are others listed in the chart that are even higher like the motorcycle and racing oils but I'm sure they are also much more expensive and much harder to find. I've never seen either one of them on a shelf. Being the Mobil 1 freak that I am, I'm always looking at whats on the shelf when I see it. IMHO, you still can't go wrong with the 15W-50 formula. It's the highest level of ZDDP that you'll find almost anywhere. It's all I've been using since I've owned my boat.

Mobil 1 oil chart
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote anthonylizardi Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: April-16-2008 at 8:32pm
IMO, you guys are complicating things too much. Just buy the full synthetic, $22 a gallon at Walmart, and add the ZDDP. Then you would know you have enough. The extended stuff gets $$$ for what you get.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote LaurelLakeSkier Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: April-16-2008 at 10:53pm
Anthony

What are you using to add the ZDDP?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote almabes Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: April-17-2008 at 12:06am
This Anthony is adding ZDDP with the blue bottle STP stuff. Then I'm going to switch to motorcycle oil. Motorcycles, for the most part, don't have catylitic converters, or roller lifters. (there's bound to be a Honda or BMW that does...but the bike place I frequent sells Harleys, and I get a great discount on parts and stuff.)
The oil is still manufactured to the API SF or SG service grade, which contains plenty of Zinc and Phosphorus.
The service manager for the Harley shop, speaking in general mind you, recommended I use the thinnest oil that will give adequate oil pressure and performance. Thinner oil is easier to pump, and induces less pumping loss in the motor. It also cools the pistons etc much better than thicker stuff. The engine may use a little of the thin stuff, but then you know your piston rings are getting adequately lubed.

Yes, I know a water cooled PCM V8 is not an air-cooled V-twin, but the concepts should still apply.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote JoeinNY Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: April-17-2008 at 12:10pm
Looks like I was a little confused as well, I thought the reason my 15w-50 extended performance had more zddp had to do with the extended performance and here it was more related to the 15w-50, thanks for the correction.

As for the STP or other additives, if you couldn't get it any other way its probably better than nothing but whether its as effective a delivery system is hard to tell and hotly debated.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote almabes Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: April-17-2008 at 12:16pm
Originally posted by JoeinNY JoeinNY wrote:


As for the STP or other additives, if you couldn't get it any other way its probably better than nothing but whether its as effective a delivery system is hard to tell and hotly debated.


Thus my reasoning for switching over to M/C oil...Ok, that and I get it cheaply too.

Oh...Love the holeshot video, man.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote gigem75 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: April-17-2008 at 6:46pm
I thought you had to use motorcraft oil in a ford? that's a joke btw

I'm a castrol person myself. everything car I own has over 100k on it and had been doing great with 20w50 as they age. the 240D has been running castrol since new and has 275 thousand miles on it and never been apart. still has great oil pressure, bent the pan a couple of years ago and replaced that and you could have eaten off the inside bottom of the old oil pan, no sludge is what I'm trying to say.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote gigem75 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: April-17-2008 at 6:53pm
on a similar note and I never believed this stuff until my brother in law told me. He runs the maintenance shop for the border patrol in San Diego. They take the trucks out in the canyons and whatnot and more often than you might think punch a hold in the pan. They'd just drive it back to the shop and burn the motor up. The prolong guy came by the shop and tried to sell them some but they were as skeptical as I was. He talked them into taking an old truck and putting prolong in it and then draining the oil. They drove the truck around with no oil for a hour. The valves were making quite a bit of noise because the lifters weren't pumped up but the engine was still running. He bought a 55 gallon drum and when the trucks come back in RUNNING they just pop a new pan on and send the truck back out. True story.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 05 210 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: April-19-2008 at 12:20am
Originally posted by almabes almabes wrote:

Then I'm going to switch to motorcycle oil. Motorcycles, for the most part, don't have catylitic converters, or roller lifters. (there's bound to be a Honda or BMW that does...but the bike place I frequent sells Harleys, and I get a great discount on parts and stuff.)
The oil is still manufactured to the API SF or SG service grade, which contains plenty of Zinc and Phosphorus.

Yes, I know a water cooled PCM V8 is not an air-cooled V-twin, but the concepts should still apply.


   All Harleys manufactured over the last 25 years have roller lifters.Quite a few manufacturers also use catalyst mufflers.Most metric bikes don't have lifters now,but use overhead cams with direct contact on rocker arms or shim buckets over the valve stem.A standard air cooled harley oil is really nothing special,you could probably source the same stuff outside a bike shop for less money.If you're gonna go thru the bike market,you should look at something more refined from a manufacturer like Bel Ray.They have SG class oils that are designed to run in bikes that utilize the same oil for the engine and trans,thus being a superior protecting lubricant with higher molecular shear strength.I realize you're not running it thru the trans,but the fact that this oil is designed for that kind of abuse says something.Trust me,if your buying a motorcycle oil for under 5 bucks a quart,it may have ZDDP in it,but it's nothing special.

   FWIW,if any of you guys own a bike,and are running the newer spec car oils in it,your asking for trouble.They just aren't designed for that type of abuse.

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote boat dr Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: April-19-2008 at 12:45am
Originally posted by TRBenj TRBenj wrote:

Either straight weight Shell Rotella-T (30w or 40w) or Valvoline Racing VR1 (I prefer the 20w50).


Tim , is it just me or some do not get the big picture as to the oils to run in these old motors. You and I did a lot of research on the subject and I still read of owners doing the NASTY to their engines.
They want to add this or add that or but WalMart oil and add whatever to "build" their own master blend.
As for the motorcycle oil that is where it belongs, I guess the next post we will see....
I have a cam and lifter failure , who sells a good cam and lifter combo??????????
Just asking a question as to people and their reasoning behind products they use................Boat dr
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote MaddMarxx Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: April-19-2008 at 12:59am
boat dr...is this what you use??
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote bmiller Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: April-19-2008 at 1:33am
Ok nc2001 the way I see it is this?Do you have a stock engine,or is it modified?If its stock then use what the owners manuel tells you.If not then use a synthetic.Just my two cents worth.I'm sure I will here commets on this.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote MaddMarxx Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: April-19-2008 at 1:40am
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote boat dr Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: April-19-2008 at 3:26am
Mark too many dollars and time invested in that stroker to play games with oils.
Rotella 40T . Lottsa ZDDP . About the only thing left on the market that I will use, Valvoline specs say they have it , but I am kinda Gun Shy of Vavoline products.
Just my .02 worth.....Boat dr
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote SNobsessed Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: April-19-2008 at 9:43am
Boat Dr. - You & I have had discussions on this before. Six months ago I too was trying to find the optimum solution & was enamored by the advertising on additives. I have now turned 180 & realize that there is too much risk in using untested combinations of lubricants/additives. If you have a failure no one will stand behind their product after it has been mixed with something else.


There are more expensive oils that will work, but Rotella straight weight & Valvoline VR1 are proven low cost solutions.


I think that all of us inherently have "Not Invented Here" syndrome in us - that was the case with myself earlier.

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Policerob Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: April-24-2008 at 4:21pm
mobil 1 extended performance version, with gold cap full syn..is the best i'll never use any thing else. I also like there (mobil 1's)filter/but napa's is good to. somthing to remember if your switching for the first time to full syn.. oil you will hve a leak or two and once you go Syn never go back. As for the leaks I found mobil 1 extended performance version stopped the leaking in my 83 SN 351. I used to use mobil 1 full syn..with the green cap. and I had a few leaks but one other thing to keep in mind is your location I am in norther Cal with miled winters so its not in issue for th 15 portion ogf the 15/50 waite. If you did no know the 15 part of the oil tell you that the oil will turn to jelly at approximatly 15'F so if your in a cold area that gets below 15' cange tho oil befor using the boat if it was subjected to such cold weather.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote almabes Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: April-24-2008 at 5:08pm
Originally posted by 05 210 05 210 wrote:

Originally posted by almabes almabes wrote:

Then I'm going to switch to motorcycle oil. Motorcycles, for the most part, don't have catylitic converters, or roller lifters. (there's bound to be a Honda or BMW that does...but the bike place I frequent sells Harleys, and I get a great discount on parts and stuff.)
The oil is still manufactured to the API SF or SG service grade, which contains plenty of Zinc and Phosphorus.

Yes, I know a water cooled PCM V8 is not an air-cooled V-twin, but the concepts should still apply.


   All Harleys manufactured over the last 25 years have roller lifters.Quite a few manufacturers also use catalyst mufflers.Most metric bikes don't have lifters now,but use overhead cams with direct contact on rocker arms or shim buckets over the valve stem.A standard air cooled harley oil is really nothing special,you could probably source the same stuff outside a bike shop for less money.If you're gonna go thru the bike market,you should look at something more refined from a manufacturer like Bel Ray.They have SG class oils that are designed to run in bikes that utilize the same oil for the engine and trans,thus being a superior protecting lubricant with higher molecular shear strength.I realize you're not running it thru the trans,but the fact that this oil is designed for that kind of abuse says something.Trust me,if your buying a motorcycle oil for under 5 bucks a quart,it may have ZDDP in it,but it's nothing special.

   FWIW,if any of you guys own a bike,and are running the newer spec car oils in it,your asking for trouble.They just aren't designed for that type of abuse.

   Mike


Thanks for the correction. I do IT consulting for a couple of the Harley dealers in the ATL metro, and a Honda dealer in SC. Both treat me VERY well, and give me a nice discount on P & A, including oil. I figured the M/C spec oil is designed to handle the abuse a flat tappet V8 running at high load can dish out.

That, and I do have an air cooled thumper that like to use a little oil.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote rosconole Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May-18-2008 at 3:01am
I used to be a fan of Castrol in the 80's... but times and technology change... The manual on my '89 PCM calls for 10W30 weight. you really wont go outside the heat range of it unless you have an overheating issue. If you give amsoil a call they specs for PCM engines in their catalog. It runs great & clean, pretty easy to find as well. Just read about some of the longevity of people who use it on their website.

TYPICAL TECHNICAL PROPERTIES

AMSOIL FORMULA 4-STROKE MARINE SYNTHETIC MOTOR OIL (WCT)
SAE 10W-30, API SL, NMMA FC-W

Kinematic Viscosity @ 100C, cSt (ASTM D-445)
11.7
Kinematic Viscosity @ 40C, cSt (ASTM D-445)
74.5
Viscosity Index (ASTM D-2270)
152
CCS Viscosity, cP @ (C) (ASTM D-5293)
6032 (-25)
Flash Point C (F) (ASTM D 92)
236 (457)
Fire Point C (F) (ASTM D 92) 258 (496)
Pour Point C (F) (ASTM D 97) -48 (-54)
Noack Volatility, % weight loss (g/100g) (ASTM D-5800)
4.8%
Four Ball Wear Test (ASTM D 4172 @ 40 kgf, 150C, 1800 rpm, 1 hour, Scar in mm)
0.40
Total Base Number (ASTM D-2896) 10.5
HTHS (cP) 3.64
Humidity Cabinet Rust (ASTM D-1748) Pass


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Well, the other day we thought we had a salesman for Meguiars's trying to sell marine wax. Now what?

Ross, What do you sell? What do you have for a boat?



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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote eric lavine Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May-18-2008 at 10:54am
chemistry class wasnt as bad
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Brktracer Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May-22-2008 at 2:26pm
Where was data found to support that STP contains ZDDP? According to the MSDS for STP it contains 1-5% proprietary zinc compounds. Are the compounds ZDDP?

http://www.thecloroxcompany.com/products/msds/armorallstp/stpoiltreatment.pdf

I am using Rotella with Comp Cams PN159 break in additive. They recommend its us as an oil additive with flat tappet cams. It costs about $10 from Summit Racing or $99 for a case of 12.

http://www.compcams.com/Base/pdf/FlatTappetCamTechBulletin.pdf

I haven't found an online MSDS for it. Maybe I'll call and request one. It will be interesting to see the ingredients/concentration.

Matt
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote almabes Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May-22-2008 at 2:33pm
Originally posted by Brktracer Brktracer wrote:

Where was data found to support that STP contains ZDDP? According to the MSDS for STP it contains 1-5% proprietary zinc compounds. Are the compounds ZDDP?


It specifically says ZDDP on the label on the bottle I bought. I'd post a picture, but I'm at work.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote tutor turtle Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: June-23-2009 at 1:14am
I've been running M1 10W-30 for the last seven years; no leaks, no usage between changes, no scary noises.

If there is something I'm doing wrong, shouldn't it have surfaced by now?

I am stopping by NECC this weekend, I will ping the wrenches for their input.
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