prop shaft removal

Cool, let us me know how it goes. Is always good to know another place. I don't have any compleins about Murphys props, except for for the shipping. They were quick and very easy to work with. I haven't found time to install my new shaft and bearing. I am dying to do so but school hasn't let me. One more project and I am done. I hope the aligment goes well. I would hate another surprise. Thanks for let me know you paid about the same. I found the price very reasonable but didn't know how much other people were paying.

eric lavine wrote: yes a wood chisel does work well, but dont let Greg know that

So, you're a chiseler?!!?         (3 Stooges)

couple whacks with a hammer and your all set to go...oh sorry...that will be 195.00 lol eric. seems they have nice equipment

eric lavine wrote: i checked into and there are 20 different materials from 306 to special ground pump shaft which was more pricey, i need to find out exactly what material is used....i know i could use ground to size pump shaft but then that would inflate the cost

306??

Eric, Thought you may have missed this.
From above: "I have heard so many different opinions on the shaft material. Last week I was talking to a friend who was replacing both shafts in his 24' twin Chris. He is the guy I know who rebuilds the Chris/Hercules so on the tech end is very competent. He told me he decided on 304 rather than one of the fancy "marine" grades. Half the money and just as good. I have 304 in both my X55 and the Atom. I would go with 316 for salt water. Keep in mind that the fancy "marine" grades are nothing more that private labeling of standard grades with tight control on the alloys. It's almost like drinking bottled water over tap water. (exception: not Louisiana tap water)"

Eric,
In order to make your prop shaft business proposition work you have to think about manufacturing in quantities of one. The only inventory you have is bar stock and if you do it one at a time, the value added (labor) becomes a receivable as soon as you ship. With CNC capability the changeover time between pieces should be insignificant

eric lavine wrote: I thought about it and he has the CNC's to handle the job and he also is looking for other sources of income, were reverse engineering Lamborgini door hinges right now...how i get my self involved in this stuff I don't know!!! but the shafting wouldnt be so bad in quanities, the problem is the capital to manufacture and stock them

Looked into it last year... I will even fwd you the quotes. Not a money maker....

Tim

Pete, thank you so much for your input. I hope one day I can repay the favor. I never noticed the dark spot at the end. Good catch. I was considering getting a new shaft already so I'm calling general today. I did the measurements as you told me. You were right. The shaft is 0.004" of variance in the middle. I set the V blocks 2 feet apart. Then I took a reading every 3 inches. The problem started showing after the strut marks, like you told me. I bet the boat took a hit. When I bought it it had an ACME 422 which is the wrong prop. The PO told me the boat was stolen from Dallas and later found on shore in Austin.

Thanks on the comment of my improvised V blocks worked great. For the most my readings were accurate. I sample the same location many times to make sure the rig was working properly. Not bad for $5 each on sale.

It will be great to have Eric in the shaft buisiness. It would definetly make things easier. But the capital investment might be a big obstacle. Maybe if he finds somebody going out of buisiness... wishful thinking   

Anthony, Considering the bent strut, I would have to say that your boat took a hit and at that time bent the shaft too. There are shops that will straighten shafting but it is risky. If the bend was in the middle so the support is on ether side (between the coupling & strut), I would consider the straightening but on the prop end I wouldn't. I also notice the dark area of the shaft at the coupling end. This is a indication of fretting so that would be a negative on the fit of the shaft/coupling. If you have the $$, I would go to General and have them set you up with a new shaft and coupling. They will make sure the coupling fit is correct and true the face of the coupling up to the shaft. Did you indicate the middle? Just being curious! Nice idea on the V blocks! Inexpensive Harbor stuff but it worked.

Eric, Do a internet search on marine shafting and you will find lots out there! I would say that getting into the competition and the investment on all the different couplings and shafting of different diameters/materals would be a struggle. Would the return be that great?
I have heard so many different opinions on the shaft material. Last week I was talking to a friend who was repalcing both shafts in his 24' twin Chris. He is the guy I know who rebuilds the Chris/Hercules so on the tech end is very competent. He told me he decided on 304 rather than one of the fancy "marine" grades. Half the money and just as good. I have 304 in both my X55 and the Atom. I would go with 316 for salt water. Keep in mind that the fancy "marine" grades are nothing more that private labeling of standard grades with tight control on the alloys. It's almost like drinking bottled water over tap water. (exception: not Louisiana tap water)

I seen a spec on new and it was .002 over 4ft.
I checked into buying 1" SS shaft because I was going to cut 50 inch lengths and have one side tapered and threaded by my machinist which was a one time in the cnc process and then i would cut the shaft to size per what length someone would want and i would chuck it into my milling machine and key it, I was hoping to keep the shafts around $125.00 each, but then they offer 20 different types....pump shaft, ground to size, 306, unfinished etc...
so if anyone knows the the exact material i will research it further and start making shafts and possibly couplings

Anthony, Glad you found someone to try and straighten the strut.

It sounds like you need to get the shaft set up in something better to get some decent readings. Ideally V blocks on a surface plate. The straightness tolerance on a good or new shaft is .001 to .002 inches per foot. I feel a bad shaft would be anything over twice that. This means if you have 2 feet between the V blocks, you do not want to see a reading in the middle over .008" It sure doesn't sound like very much but it doesn't take much to get the vibrations going especially now with the fancy CNC props. Do check at the small end of the taper as it will check for bending just aft of the strut. This is the spot that you will see the most problems from hitting something. Did you ever see that picture that Reid posted of his broken shaft? It was just aft of the strut.

Eric, What do you consider bad?

Tim,
    From SkiDimm?

I am trying to get a local shop to straight my strut. Does anybody recommend repair shop or if I have to buy a new one from where?

I have to search the threads but I know somebody recommended a shop. The first thing I am going try is with my prop shop. I have seen him rebuild from a whole blade to outboard bottoms. I try to removed the set screw in the strut and I screw the bolt. I need to remove that too. As always, thanks for the advice.

A quick inspection of the shaft look straight. I need to do the V block test.

Bruce, I did see them. You can buy them and install in place of the wood blocks/shims. Are you thinking about it? I'd just stick with the wood. They really aren't hard to use.

8122pbrainard wrote: Anthony, Well from my side of the computer screen, it sure looks bent! When you unbolt the coupling halves, it may tell you more.

Well, It still looks bent to me!!!