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Broken Ski Pylon/69 CC Mustang

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Big Jim Slade View Drop Down
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    Posted: June-23-2008 at 3:56pm
So I paid the price last season for letting a rookie drive my boat. I was so motivated to get in a ski run (calm day, glass); I gave a quick driving lesson and hoped for the best. Unfortunately things didn't work out too well. My driver decided to head through some massive waves churned up by other boats (while turning). Most of the stuff inside the boat ended up in the lake and my ski pylon was broken from the impact. Although I didn't feel much as the skier, I could tell the boat took a shot. Although it's really sad I still don't have my boat out on the lake, I was trying to get it ready over the weekend. I initially figured the mounts had been broken right out of the floor. When I got in there to look, I noticed the only thing broken is where the pylon passes through the (upper) floor decking. I started to pull up the floor deck yesterday and ran into a few problems. First off, do I need to pull the side panels to get the floor deck up? It looks like the side panels partly cover the floor and keep it from being lifted. I'm trying to pull up just the front portion of the decking so I can leave the motor cover and rear portion attached. Next, it looks like I need to build something to give this pylon more (upper) support. It looks like the lower portion swivels on a ball joint and it’s the decking that keeps it vertical. Does anyone know how I can strengthen this decking for more support?

Thanks.
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Gary S View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Gary S Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: June-24-2008 at 1:47am
It's been almost 20 yrs since I repaired mine,but I kind of remember replacing a 2x6 in that area. I'm not a wood worker so I don't know the terms, but it was inset into the stringers.I'm missing the side panels so I don't know about them but I did have the fiberglass floor pan,which had to be removed along with all the seats and motorbox
69 Mustang HM SS
95 Nautique Super Sport
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8122pbrainard View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 8122pbrainard Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: June-24-2008 at 8:24am
BJS, Did you ever investigate the condition of the stringers? It was in question a year ago. You also stated that you were going to do the stringer/floor/foam job the winter of 07/08. Doesn't sound like you did it if you're asking how to remove the floor! The pylon damaging the floor is a good indicator that you have something going on!! Don't count on the mechanic doing your trans not saying anything and then assuming you don't have a problem. BTW, trans problems are caused by bad stringers. Have you checked the engine/shaft alignment lately?

Don't expect to find much for the upper pylon support. If the pylon was a dealer install (I've done several) it was pretty much a hole in the floor! Yes the side panels do need to come out to get the floor up. I highly suggest you do pull the floor and take a look at conditions under it before you run that boat to the bottom of the lake!! Gary is correct that the factories upper plylon support would be a 2x6 or 2x8 running between the main stringers.


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Big Jim Slade View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Big Jim Slade Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: June-24-2008 at 2:31pm
I did do "some" stringer investigation a year ago. Primarily checking the motor mounts to make sure the bolts still felt secure. I've also kept a close eye on the transmission and how much it moves when engaging forward/reverse. When you ask about checking engine/shaft alignment, I can't say I've done this procedure as I don't know the specifics of doing it (clearances, etc.). If someone can give me a few pointers, I'll do it before I consider putting Big Jim in the water.

There's no doubt that a complete stringer/foam overhaul is needed at some point (maybe now). I had hoped to do this over the 07/08 winter, but had difficulties securing an acceptable (heated) garage.
I'd really like to use the boat for one more season before the "project" begins but don't want to risk the huge amount of time and money I've already put into Big Jim. As is common with boats, this entire project has turned out to be way more than I bargained for. Had I know how much of an investment this would be, I'd have purchased a nice "restored" boat or gone for a much newer boat. Looks like boats and my other hobby (sports cars) have a lot in common. The old saying “the way to make a small fortune racing sports cars is to start with a large one”, seems equally applicable to boating.

What really irks me about this is my initial concern about the cracks in the lower portion of the outer hull (before I bought the boat). I even called CC and gave them the engine compartment plate # to see if I could get a history. During that conversation (with Jeff Warner-CC’s vintage boat guy), I was told not to worry about the cracks in the hull?? Why I was told this is certainly a mystery. It's now plainly obvious that the cracks are related to the water being held in the foam core. When it gets to be -40 in Minneapolis that water isn't liquid anymore. I'm sure the stresses on the fiberglass are not trivial. On a positive note I've learned a hell of a lot about boats working on this guy. Most of it has been fun. In truth I'm more of a slalom skier and not a boat guy, but I like mechanical projects too (damn engineer in me). Unfortunately I think the stringer project will be the first one I’ll need some help with. Maybe I’ll get lucky and find someone in the area with some experience doing this. As my background is electrical engineering and elaborate home theater/home automation design, maybe I’ll find someone I can do a labor trade with.

I guess what I could really use would be the tell tale signs of what constitutes acceptable and unacceptable stringer conditions for one more season of use. If anyone has any observations about when they realized it was time for the stringer project (breaking the ski pylon?), this might be helpful to my decisions.

Thanks in advance to all the experts here on CC Fan.

Big Jim Slade
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8122pbrainard View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 8122pbrainard Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: June-24-2008 at 2:54pm
Sit down when to have some time and do some reading. There are some great threads here on site that can really provide tons of info.

Here's Eric's with pictures on alignment:
alignment

Here's Greg's on his stringer project:
weeding the pumpkin patch

Here's Joe's stringer (towards the end - first is his his engine):
351 from scratch

I'd like to comment on checking stringers by seeing if the engine bolts turn. It is a non destructive preliminary test only. The rot is sometimes deeper down than the lag bolts. Small sections of the fiberglass can be removed off the stringers (with a 1" hole saw) down close to the hull to see what's going on!!

Pull the floor up in some areas and post some pictures.


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Riley View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Riley Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: June-24-2008 at 4:29pm
I just pulled the pylon out of my '66 and the floor support was 2 pieces of 3/4" plywood. It appeared to be original.

If your buyning an older boat, prior to a '94 or whatever the 1st year was that they went to all fiberglass, I don't care what brand it is or how well it's been taking care of, if the floor hasn't been redone, you've got some problems down there.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote BuffaloBFN Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: June-24-2008 at 4:52pm
Originally posted by 8122pbrainard 8122pbrainard wrote:

The rot is sometimes deeper down than the lag bolts.


I'll second this even though my engine sits on a cradle(the cradle has lags in the stringers). The fore and aft of mine were the worst; the rear in particular...probably because the stern is generally lower and has many more thru hulls or stuff bolted in. I think the vertical gel cracking I have to fix is because of the sharper corner between side and bottom to the rear.

There was an ant/termite/whatever colony that had long since moved out in the front of both stringers?!!?
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