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bent strut?

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stepper459 View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote stepper459 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Topic: bent strut?
    Posted: August-18-2008 at 5:18pm
I just aligned my engine the other day (read: tried), and found the shaft to sit on one side of the brass fitting through the hull. I have had my strut straightened by a prop shop because when I bought the boat it was like a banana (or at least visibly bent). Yet it still seems to favor one side. The question is, has anyone had luck making fine adjustments to the strut in terms of side to side adjustment by shimming or anything? I don't really want to send the strut out again but maybe I'll have to because there is no way to get the alignment perfect without either forcing the shaft to starboard about 3/16" or else having the shaft sit on the edge of the shaft log (is that the correct term for the brass fitting in the hull itself?). Sorry for the long-winded question but I've put a lot of thought into this problem, and really want to get rid of the slight high speed vibration the boat has always had!

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79nautique View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 79nautique Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: August-18-2008 at 5:34pm
well it won't be inline with the rudder so if you are using that on the outside don't, But if you losen the 4 mounting bolts you should have some play to adjust it a little just reseal with 3M 5200 or 4200 sealant, but regardless you can still align the motor you just have to move the whole thing until the shaft is centered in the packing gland/shaft log from side to side, then you can dial in the rest. Just loosen the set screws on the sliding section of the mounts on all four then get a pry bar and push until it is centered then tighten down and finish aligning the motor to the shaft.
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stepper459 View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote stepper459 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: August-18-2008 at 5:46pm
I know the shaft doesn't quite line up with the rudder, as I've taken the shaft out before and it was nice that it didn't line up. I had to loosen the rudder on a friend's '67 barracuda to get the shaft out of that. But then again when it broke just behind the coupler(!) it didn't drop with the prop straight to the lake bottom. (no safety collar either)

I couldn't remember when I had the strut out before how much play there was side to side... I'll probably use 4200 or similar so I can take it out again sometime if I need to! I've had 5200 pull off chips of gelcoat trying to get things off...
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 79nautique Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: August-18-2008 at 5:56pm
you shouldn't have any play between the shaft and the bushing in the strut, if you do then you need to be replacing the bushing while you have the strut off of the boat.

The play I was refering to is the play around the mounting screws and the hull thru holes.

Disconnect the coupling, remove the strut, clean mounting area, see if you cab slide it over engough so that the shaft is centered in the strut as well as the shaft log, might have to snug the mounting bolts on the strut a little and tap it one side or the other until it is aligned in both. Once that is done then you start moving the engine until it is aligned with the shaft.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote stepper459 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: August-18-2008 at 6:20pm
Thanks for the clarification, but I did understand you the first time - I have no play between the shaft and bushing, as that was replaced when the strut was straightened; I was just asking what kind of tolerance there is with the strut mount holes, and it sounds like there's enough room to make the adjustment I need. I will follow the steps you outlined above now, which is what should have been done when the strut was reinstalled after being straightened.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 8122pbrainard Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: August-18-2008 at 10:52pm
Morgan, It's common to have to add stainless flat washers between the hull and the strut. The key is to get the shaft to go roughly through the log in the bottom of the boat while the strut is aligned to the shaft. Using the washers is preferred over elongating the mounting holes in the hull.


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote DrCC Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: August-19-2008 at 12:44am
or you can adjust it with an old prop shaft. remove the good prop shaft, remove the hose from the shaft log. Just twist the strut accordingly to line up side to side w/ strut bolts tight.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote stepper459 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: August-19-2008 at 12:57pm
Thanks guys for the advice - the only problem I have now is the extended forecast is the nicest it's been in many weeks, and I don't want to pull the boat out! But I know how important alignment is.
Also, pete: I'm very much hoping I can get the travel I need, assuming the strut itself is straight, without modifying any holes! That will be a last resort.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 79nautique Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: August-19-2008 at 2:03pm
disconnect the coupling and if the shaft looks like it is about centered in the shaft log then move the engine. If you are basing your acessment on the couplings being bolted together then you are wrong and need to be doing it based on then seperated and a gap between the couples to see how well it is center in the log.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote stepper459 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: August-19-2008 at 3:20pm
been there. when I disconnected the coupling the other day, that's when I found that the shaft was resting on one side of the shaft log, and I had to pull on it to center it, thus my original question about moving the strut a little to make up the difference versus having the strut adjusted professionally...
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 79nautique Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: August-19-2008 at 3:27pm
just double checking that's what I thought just wanted to bring it up again just incase.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 8122pbrainard Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: August-19-2008 at 3:34pm
Morgan,
The strut alignment so the shaft is roughly centered in the shaft log is going to be "by feel" by rotating the shaft to where it feels "comfortable" in the cutlass bearing. The alternate involves the removal of the cutlass and then using a 1&1/4" OD piece of tubing in the strut forward into the log. This is done on new strut installs and I've done it on wood bottom replacements. I just wanted to give you the heads up on the feel on the strut position. Do tighten up the strut bolts before glopping it up with the 5200 as a trial fit especially if you do need to use some flat washers for the up/down adjustment. Al(DrCC) is right on as far as the port to starboard with a cheater shaft. In fact, I've know people who have removed twists and side bends while on the boat!!!


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote stepper459 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: August-19-2008 at 5:00pm
I should have a shaft around somewhere- the broken one from the 67 barracuda - and it makes sense to use that to get things lined up. I do like 5200 but I think something less permanent might also do the trick. Unless there's a reason to use the 5200 to really firm up the position of the strut and ensure (almost) no movement over time?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 8122pbrainard Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: August-19-2008 at 5:31pm
Morgan, I'm just a real big fan of the 5200 and yes, it will firm up the strut. The biggest disadvantage is it's cure time. It's a moisture cure so if it is real dry in the area, you can spray some water on it and it will speed it up. The 4200 isn't bad but the adhesion is less so it doesn't seal as good but far better than a polysufone (Boat Life). Removing (hopefully you won't hit something!!) really isn't a problem with the 5200. It can be hot wired which is nichrome wire or stainless MIG wire attached to a car battery or HD charger between two blocks of wood as handles.


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