Torque & HP Open Discussion

Oops it didnt upload the head info? M-6049-X305 ford racing part #, I will try one more time

to get lift, Ill set up a Dial indicator on the rockers and hand crank the engine, zero it on the low side and the make a complete pass until the indicator goes back to zero, lets say it was .310. then you take that figure and multiple by 1.5 and that is your lift on that valve....in this case my lift is .465
just threw that out there for info

[QUOTE=81nautique]   Can you tell if those lift numbers are at .050 or .006. I think they're at .006 but the IV/EV timing events are at .050 so I did do a little guessing.
[QUOTE]

Now you lost me.. lift is lift it occurs at an angle not a height?... did you mean duration. Duration is 268.5 intake and 280.1 at .006 or 218.5 int and 230 exh at .050.

Alan glad to see your up and running again. I have a 650 and a 750 cfm carb, this will most likely run the 750. Rod length is 6.2 inches. The lift numbers you used are the numbers for lift height at TDC, they are only there to assist in "degreeing" in the cam I should have mentioned that since he highlights them in green they were the first numbers I jumped to as well. I think the numbers that you really want to use are Net lift numbers listed which are .568 Intake, and .565 exhaust. The wet exhaust setup on these things is a tricky variable, there is no doubt there is a restriction but I had my hiteks made larger 1 7/8" tubes that run to the 3 inch collector and dual three inch exhausts that are considerably shorter than a car and have no mufflers. They certainly sound better than the average car with performance manifolds and mufflers. My guess is they end up somewhere between the two.

This engine with the cast iron heads, lower compression, dual plane intake, different cam, dynoed with the ported pcms (filled with but not pumping water) at 401hp at 4850 rpm. No plans to dyno it this time around as I really didnt get the tuning benefits I was hoping to get the first time out.. partially because there was no way to run water through the exhaust and partially because I didnt generated enough vacuum to get my 750 carb to work right and ended up switching it out after the fact.   

The goal with the current changes is mostly to move the power band up into higher rpms hopefully 5500 or so, as I was finding it hard to get a prop that would get down under 5000 rpm and if I did get one it would be at a pitch larger than what a 1 inch shaft can safely support. Along with that the pistons that came out over the winter were pretty well toasted so hoping the aluminum heads will help remove some heat.

Back to business....Joe in NY is at it again and asked me to plug his specs into Desktop Dyno so here you go....eat your heart out!!! This thing puts up monster torque numbers.






Joe, Take a look at all the specs and let me know if anything needs to be changed. I guessed at a 700 cfm carb, also used high performance manifolds and mufflers for exhaust. The chart jumps by over 50hp if I set it up for headers and no mufflers, time to cut some holes in that motor box.

Some saturated foam I'm sure, however, I replaced the floor last summer and had the foam sitting free to breathe for over a month inside and out in the sun. Stringers were solid as a rock and still had the original womanized coating on them. My brother has a 26' cabin cruiser with a Chevy 350 (260hp)and Bravo 3 outdrive weighing 6,000lbs+ and it comes out of the hole as quick as my Southwind. I don't expect a hole shot like the Mustang on YouTube, but it should get up quicker than a 26' cabin cruiser. If I raise the prop pitch, will that help the hole shot? What about a 4 blade prop or a reduction gear? By the way, you can have your Found On Road Dead and I'll keep the most reliable engine ever built (Chevy 350). Thanks for everything guys!!

Mucqb - Have you checked your foam & stringers for water saturation? Maybe the boat is just too heavy.

81nautique wrote: Wait til Jbear reads this crap eh?

Are you guys kidding.....I know exactly what you're talking about....

HW..pass me another Beam huh?

john

TRBenj wrote: On the Acme I had cup added to I didnt notice a penalty on the holeshot either- double bonus.

Because Cup is supposed to start affecting performance over 2000rpms.

So what you gain with a smaller/cupped prop is the holeshot of the lower pitch prop and the top end of a higher pitch prop.

Brktracer wrote: Alan, Pick up an LMA-3 for your LM-1. LMA-3 has the MAP built in. All you will need to do is connect a hose to manifold vacuum. It also has an accelerometer included so it can measure g force as well. It uses power from the LM-1 and the only wiring connections are the communication cable to the LM-1 and a tach signal wire. Calibrate the accelerometer and configure the channels and you're ready to run! I have one in the race car and it's really neat! I'll try to post a log later. It has 5 channels total so you can log things like voltage, fuel pressure, oil pressure, etc. Also, it has a 5V output and ground connections for each channel to avoid ground differentials.

That's the unit I thinking of adding, although I don't have an LM-1, I went with the LC-1 and a DB gauge thinking I would use the laptop for logging. Turns out the laptop is a PITA and the small handheld would have been easier to use and download. The Lm-3 will still hook right up to my setup and is in the future somewhere. The LM-3 is pretty cool,I was wondering how many g's you could pull in a powerturn!!!

Wait til Jbear reads this crap eh?

Interesting tuning trip yesterday, first thing I learned is it's almost impossible to use a laptop computer in the bright sunlight!!! Impossible to see the screen so I just made some passes and logged data ti view later.

I did get the idle mixture perfect and the boat is running very good but the logs show it is very rich at 4000 rpm and higher, richer is better than a lean condition but it may be holding the engine back so I'm going to add a secondary metering block so I can change the jetting. You can really see when the power valve is opening as the engine goes from 13:1 to 10.6:1, I'm not feeling a bog but it goes rich and stays rich, I "may" drop the PV so it comes in later

Now for prop info I did put on my OJ 13x13 and here's what I found. I was hoping the motor would slow down to 5400 and it did drop to 5300 but I lost 1 MPH. (I'm not embarrassed to have the boat running 55mph with the stock prop though but I was hoping to go the other way) The holeshot is ofcourse not as violent as the 540 either BUT the oj is a better choice for general use as the bow lift at throttle up is much less than the 540 and the boat has a more comfortable feel to it. I think I'm going to send the 540 out and have as much cup as they can added to it. The 540 makes the boat racey and the throttle response with it is incredible but again the oj might make a smoother skiing prop where as the 540 would definately be a better choice for boarding as the nose runs high at those speeds.

I may eventually add another data logging module to the setup so I can record engine vacuum and rpm. Sort of tricky right now driving with a laptop, vacuum gauge and a stop watch in my hands.

Glad to hear the changes have you smiling Alan, we never had any doubt she would be a flyer. About time someone put a good running engine in that generation hull;-). It will be cool to see some air fuel ratio data. Your all ready into test and tune season and I have nothing attached to my engine block but the crank, main bearings, and caps...

Hey, what about a rookie of the year award..



I would hate to beat somebody at GL09.

Alan that sounds great . It is obvious you have done your homework . I hope she pulls to atleast 57.3. Whats next ?