Prop change

Just in the process of putting away my baby for the winter.Completely cleaned and waxed and will have my local dealer winterize and tune up ready for spring tomorrow.

Swapped out my prop and installed a new Acme 540 on the weekend. Used the puller kit I purchased from Acme tightened and tightened and tightened some more ( didn't think it would be that hard) and used rubber mallet on shaft to vibrate lose.

When I installed just cleaned shaft used new brass key( it was slightly shorter) and re-used crown nut as the new one provided didn't have slots for the cotterpin. Insert key and pushed prop on as far as it would go then tighten nut until cotter pin could be installed.

Hopefully I have set the prop on properly?    

Ron,
I have to say that the most common problem people have with prop installation is binding on the key. This is when the key is out of position causing it to be too high in the keyway and the prop bottoms out on it and not the tapered shaft. The easy way to avoid this is to first dry fit the prop on the shaft without the key. Mark the forward position of the hub on the shaft with some tape or a marker. Now when you install the prop with the key you will know that it is as far forward as it will go and the prop taper is seating on the shaft taper.

With a new prop, I always recommend checking the fit with some "high spot blue". We are seeing taper finishes (rough and or off taper) that also may need to be lapped. Acme is even recommending lapping in their instruction sheets that come with their props.

Don't worry about the shorter key. Most of the torque from the shaft to the prop is transmitted through the taper. This of course is when the taper fit is good!

Jimmy,
Thanks for the encouraging words!