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1955 CC Hurricane Restoration

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jbear View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote jbear Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: November-14-2010 at 11:02pm
Thank goodness...back to our Sunday night updates.

Gotta agree with bj...speechless.

john
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote SNobsessed Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: November-15-2010 at 12:33am
So Alan, there is going to be a next time? Your ambition is amazing!
“Beer is proof that God loves us and wants us to be happy.”

Ben Franklin
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 81nautique Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: December-04-2010 at 6:27pm
Originally posted by SNobsessed SNobsessed wrote:

So Alan, there is going to be a next time? Your ambition is amazing!


I honestly don't know if I would do this again. The grunt work is brutal and the main reason I haven't posted in a few weeks is very little actual progress to show. I've spent 3 weekends in the garage now fitting plywood, installing, removing, reinstalling, playing with 5200 and making a darn mess.

I've actually been a little frustrated because I've been fighting with the 1/4" plywood sides. Getting them to form properly is more challenging than it looks and of course now that I'm done I know what the secrets are but it's been a little trying to say the least. I have walked away from the boat a few times.

I'm at the final stages of hanging the inner plywood sides. Everything is installed and I'm taking my time fairing them out so the finish planking will lay properly. In my building years good finish work always started with good rough framing so I'm really spending some time with the grinder and sander to get this right.

My plans for sanding outside today were foiled with 7 inches of snow so the garage is a mess again.

First I ground any high spots down with the high speed grinder then faired it in with the 8" sand disk.




This picture is for Jbear


Fairing in nicely, once I knocked all the high spots off I did have a few lows to fill so I mixed up some epoxy with micro fibre filler to make a nice paste. Filled any low areas and closed up for the day, I'll finish sanding everything down tomorrow and then get 2 coats of cpes on it all.


I'm off to the lumber yard to get some materials to build a 16' long planking bench. I'm also going to need to make some custom clamps for use while hanging the sides so I have a fair amount of work to do but I'm getting closer. I have a buddy with a machine shop fabricating a jig for my small router to use for trimming the side planks in so next week I may be able to get started.

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote FINS Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: December-05-2010 at 12:35am
Can't wait to see your clamp set up for the sides Alan. We have been head scratching on a boat project for a little while now that we want to plywood the sides prior to planking. The clamping has us a little concerned...until now. I will sit back with a Rum and Coke and wait for you to do it first.
59 ATOM

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 81nautique Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: December-05-2010 at 1:58pm
Brian, Couple things I've learned along the way and what I would do differntly:

I would NEVER use Hydrotek (Meranti) marine plywood again, way to rigid, it splinters like crazy and is hard as a rock. Spend the extra money and get Okume, it bends at will, is easy to plane and doesn't splinter. Supposedly it's not as rot resistant as Hydrotek so use plenty of Cpes.

Second is if I were to start over I would be using 1/8" plywood instead of 1/4" and I would increase the outer planking from 3/8" to 1/2". This would allow for better fitting plywood and also allow for more final sanding of the outer planking.

Third is if you are talking about doing a Correct Craft do not use 1/2" plywood for the auxilary frames like CC did, the plywood doesn't hold the curve and forces your nice curved plywood sides straight. Again in hind sight I would make new aux frames out of white oak and steam bend them to the exact curve I needed, then install them with a helper after the plywood is in place and 5200 is set up. Working by myself I'm forced to install them as I go and it's not the right way to do this.

As for the clamps I hope to get the welder out later today and start making them so I'll post a few pics tonight, it's simply altering existing clamps so they can be attached to the boat. I saw this on a wood boat forum and it seems to be the way to do it.

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote skinaut Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: December-05-2010 at 4:47pm
Amazing job, I enjoy the updates. Between your wood project
and now that winter has set in, Sanity will surely fire her glass
project back up. I get my CC dose.
So have at it, I am ready to be entertained!
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 81nautique Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: December-05-2010 at 10:18pm
Inner hull sides are done and Cpes'd. In the end it came out fine, the white areas are the epoxy filled low spots. They are really only 1/8" deep so it really wasn't that big a deal but of course I beat myself up trying to get it perfect.






Next week I should be ready to start hanging the side planking.

Brian, This is the clamp I made up today, it's just a 6" bar clamp $3.49 from Harbor Freight. I removed the fixed end of the clamp and welded a 3/16"x1"x4" piece of steel in it's place. The idea is to screw the clamp to the frame member to hold the planks while steaming and fitting. The screw holes will have to be drilled and filled once the clamps are removed but it should work. I made up 12 of these today but I may need more.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 81nautique Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: December-14-2010 at 11:53am
Only had a few hours to work on the boat this weekend but I have started the side planking.   First step was to put anything I wasn't going to need away and try to make a larger work area.   Then I put together a planking work bench, it's 16' long so I can work on an entire strake at one time. It's built so I can clamp on either side or the center of each plank. After fitting the first pair of planks sunday the work bench is a success, with all the clamping access it gives me another set of hands.





Here's the router jig a friend of mine made up, it's mounted to a small laminate trimmer that my Dad used for years in the kitchen remodeling business. The router's been retired for a while but has found a new life, the compact size is exactly what is needed for the job.






The idea with the router jig is to position the new plank on the side of the boat and then use the router jig to guide the router along the path of the preceeding plank, in this case the chine board. If you do it correctly and don't stop, waver or stutter you'll get a cut edge on the new plank that follows the shape of the prior plank exactly. After a few practice passes it's easy to see how this is going to produce a first class joint, far better than anything I could fit by hand.



And here's the first full strake fitted and ready to be installed some night this week.





That represents about 8 hours of work but I'm certain I'll pick up speed until I get to the planks that need to be steam bent of course. It sure is nice seeing this stage kick off, feels like the home stretch even though there's a long way to go yet.

A side note for Pete because I'm sure he'll pick up on it is that aft plank is discolored and had a bad grain pattern but it is below the waterline and will be painted. Trying to use some of the not so nice pieces where they won't be seen and save the nice ones for important areas of the boat.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote connorssons Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: December-14-2010 at 12:04pm
Just a darn shame to paint any of the wood!Great job!
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 8122pbrainard Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: December-14-2010 at 12:45pm
Originally posted by 81nautique 81nautique wrote:


A side note for Pete because I'm sure he'll pick up on it is that aft plank is discolored and had a bad grain pattern but it is below the waterline and will be painted. Trying to use some of the not so nice pieces where they won't be seen and save the nice ones for important areas of the boat.


Yes but I immediately noticed it was below the waterline!!


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Keeganino Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: December-14-2010 at 3:02pm
What a cool restoration. Not sure how I have missed this one. Makes the skier restoration look like child's play. Great job!
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote M3Fan Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: December-14-2010 at 3:39pm
More detail on the significance of the workbench and how the router jig works?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote C-Bass Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: December-14-2010 at 4:01pm
Does the router jig work similar to the "scribing" method of matching stringers to a hull. Except here you're actually cutting with the router as you go along.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 81nautique Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: December-14-2010 at 5:04pm
Originally posted by C-Bass C-Bass wrote:

Does the router jig work similar to the "scribing" method of matching stringers to a hull. Except here you're actually cutting with the router as you go along.


I think that would be a good comparison to what's happening. Next weekend when I fit another set of planks I'll take more photos and document the process from start to finish. Basically the router is following the fixed plank and cutting a mirror image of it in the clamped plank for a perfect fit.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote jbear Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: December-15-2010 at 3:26am
Holy Cow! Just gets better the more pictures you post.

BTW; big thanks for the snow pic...all the snow I need to see!
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote jbear Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: December-26-2010 at 10:26pm
Bump to the top...

I am hoping for an update...or maybe to much snow there to work?!
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote kytom2 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: December-27-2010 at 12:55am
Great work as always Alan. Wish I had your ability to take on a huge project like this.
I have really enjoyed seeing your progress. Its come a long way since I saw it at Green Lake.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 81nautique Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: December-27-2010 at 12:57am
Update tommorrow night guys, one more day off before I head back to work. Making some good progress.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote eric lavine Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: December-27-2010 at 9:27am
how is the wife taking your absence? btw. coming along beautifully and I know how the discouraging blues go, you gotta keep at it, its tough, but when its done and you look back, you'll say it was worth every minute of your time
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 81nautique Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: December-27-2010 at 8:45pm
Well thought I would walk you through the process of fitting a row of planks on the boat. Bear with me, the pictures are not neccesarily from the same plank but I think you'll get the jist of whats involved.

The plank stock itself started as 5/4 or 1" thick stock that was resawn on a band saw to 7/16" thick and then planed down to 3/8" planks. This process gives me 2 exact mirror image pieces of stock, one for each side of the boat and is refered to as Book Matching. When done, one side of the boat should mirror the other in both grain pattern and color.

Before I removed the old planks they were numbered as to their location on the boat and I'll use these as patterns for the new planks. First step is to trace the old plank adding 1" to the width to allow for router fitting. This is where the planking table comes in as it's 16' long and just gives a nice surface to work on an entire length at one time. You can see the limber straight edge used to continue the pencil edge where planks where damaged during removal.




Rough cut to size with the jig saw.



The board is then clamped in place and routed until the fit is perfect, some take 6-7 passes before it just right.


This is a dry fit plank, the router follows the edge of the top board and copies any irregularites to the lower board for a perfect fit.



As I move up the side of the boat the forward planks require steaming, this slows me down quite a bit but it is the right way to do it. Steaming takes just enough stress out of the board to ensure the fasteners at the butt joint don't tear out later.
This board is steamed and cooling clamped in place.


After the plank edges are routed they're clamped back on the table and marked again using the old planks as templates. Cut with the jig saw and hand planed smooth. Once final fitting is complete the back side and ends of the planks are coated with CPES and left to cure over nite and installed the next day.


5200 adhesive is applied and troweled on and the plank is fastened in place, each full length of planks requires 108 screws all predrilled and counter sunk. After installing a plank excess 5200 must be cleaned up with Xylol.



So far I have 2 planks on one side and three on the other completed, very happy with the results but this is going to take some time.







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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote M3Fan Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: December-27-2010 at 9:15pm
Oh. Mah. Gawd.

How friggin outstanding is that? Bonus points for the bookmatching, man. wow.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 65 'cuda Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: December-27-2010 at 9:39pm
Fantastic work. Does the router bit sometimes kiss the first level of planking, especially up by the stem, where there would be some rock in the base? Are you using a spiral bit to reduce chatter?

Finally, what you are doing would be sequence matching the boards on both sides of the hull. Book matching is the technique where you would take that re-sawn board and open it up like the leaves of a book and install it that way. This would produce a mirror image of the grain pattern along the glue line.

As always, very nice.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote storm34 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: December-27-2010 at 9:47pm
Gary, Was just reading about this last night. Danenburg suggests a solid carbide 1/4 X 1-inch up spiral bit. Looks like that's what you using, correct Alan?

It shouldn't hit the 1st level of planking with that base on the router.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 81nautique Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: December-27-2010 at 9:58pm
Originally posted by 65 'cuda 65 'cuda wrote:

Fantastic work. Does the router bit sometimes kiss the first level of planking, especially up by the stem, where there would be some rock in the base? Are you using a spiral bit to reduce chatter?

Finally, what you are doing would be sequence matching the boards on both sides of the hull. Book matching is the technique where you would take that re-sawn board and open it up like the leaves of a book and install it that way. This would produce a mirror image of the grain pattern along the glue line.

As always, very nice.


Thank you Gary, The bit is always 1/8" away from the installed plank due to the lip on the base plate, there's no way it can hit. The last 4" up at the stem must be fit with a block plane though as you can't follow through with the cut.   The router base is small enough it follows the plank even where it has bends/twist in it with out issue. Yes on the upspiral bit, very nice cut but still a little chatter because it's hard to get the clamped piece completely tight to the boat.

I think you're technically correct on the Book matching but it seems common to call it that in the boat building circles. Your explaination makes perfect sense though.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote jbear Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: December-27-2010 at 11:22pm
well it was worth the wait....just an unbelievable treat to follow this. I am kinda at a loss to say much else...
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 65 'cuda Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: December-28-2010 at 1:44am
I see that the bit could not hit the installed plank, but it looks like it could kiss the plywood planking underneath?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 81nautique Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: December-28-2010 at 11:14am
Originally posted by 65 'cuda 65 'cuda wrote:

I see that the bit could not hit the installed plank, but it looks like it could kiss the plywood planking underneath?


It certainly could but I have the depth set at 1/4" instead of the full 3/8" thickness of the stock. I trim the remaining lip with a block plane and chamfer that edge slightly to hold some 5200.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Morfoot Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: December-28-2010 at 11:21am
Originally posted by jbear jbear wrote:

well it was worth the wait....just an unbelievable treat to follow this. I am kinda at a loss to say much else...


I think John summed it up. Fabulous work Alan. I might just have to make a trip up there for some Chicago Beers and see this thing in person. I hope the guys at HQ are watching this thread.

You Da' Man!
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Fl Inboards Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: December-28-2010 at 11:35am
Very nice! And thanks for the pictures.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Randy_in_Ohio Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: December-28-2010 at 1:35pm
Very nice work Alan. This is a lot of fun to follow, thanks for keeping us updated.

108 screws per plank... whoa! Anyone keeping track of how many screws it will take to put this back together?
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