Water in Engine?

You can push water out with WD-40 or kerosene, the latter is cheaper. Then chase that out with oil.

I bought the vessel from a salvage company. It was run aground and the three tracking fins were forced up through the hull, one of which punctured the oil pan. The engine is not locked up; however there is no oil in the oil pan and I am not sure if water was introduced into the block when the puncture occured. Hope that makes sense.

While you have the pan off the bottom I'd go ahead and roll a new set of rod and main bearings in. Also wouldn't be a bad idea to pull the oil pump and flush out the screen and pump.

And if I am wrong about water getting into the block, a complete rebuild could waste a lot of time and money. I believe that MaddMarxx is more in line with what I should do. Replace the oil pan and flush with new oil. If after I fill it with oil, turn it over a few times, and then drain it, and see any water in the drained oil then I would consider a complete rebuild. If I had nothing but time and money on my hands I might do things differently but I do not believe that I would be doing anything half-assed by assessing what really needs to be fixed and then proceeding from there. MaddMarxx --- Thanks for the advice!!

stimie02 wrote: And if I am wrong about water getting into the block, a complete rebuild could waste a lot of time and money. I believe that MaddMarxx is more in line with what I should do. Replace the oil pan and flush with new oil. If after I fill it with oil, turn it over a few times, and then drain it, and see any water in the drained oil then I would consider a complete rebuild. If I had nothing but time and money on my hands I might do things differently but I do not believe that I would be doing anything half-assed by assessing what really needs to be fixed and then proceeding from there. MaddMarxx --- Thanks for the advice!!

how the hell is water going to get in the block, did you sink the boat after you punched a hole in the oil pan, did you have water in the block and throw something throw the pan to create the hole in the pan?

theres a damn hole in the pan there is no water in it, replacing the pan and flushing is going to do crap but might make it a lot worse than it is now if you would just pull the motor flip it over and inspect the internals. you have to pull it any way. So if the internals are rusted up then it needs more than a F n pan is going to fix.

so it's sat ina salvage yard with out oil for how long and you want to slap a pan on it and flush it out and think it's going to last.

Two phrase half assed shade tree mechanic bull***************.

do what you want flush and run and then whatch it blow up and then you will be full circle and wasted your money and still have to rebuild the motor and I know for a fact Mark would never just slap a pan on and go without inspecting the internals closely while the motors out and replacing the bearings before putting it back in the boat.

do you really think the cam and lifters rockers and everything else is going to be fine, if the bearings are bad/rusted, everything else won't be. Foolish thoughts from a newbie.

And don't worry about All of my buddies are well aware of me and who and what I am about. as they have chimed in on the thread, maybe should meet some of them as I have or pick up on it when I call them by name and not there forum's name.

Nice of you to make crap up to try to try and bolster your case as maybe you should point out where you said what in this thread and the replace as need missed that. Guess it was edited out.

again foolish to think that you can just slap a oil pan on and drive away dumn ass newbie's they never learn.

Stimie, did we forget to tell you about '79?

He's harmless, provides us great entertainment.

Sounds like you have a plan. Even if your engine seizes up later, you only have the cost of some gaskets to lose. I say go for it.

Chris,

If you've been hanging around since July, you may be aware that reidp is right up the road from you. He could be a world of advice and help to you on a local basis.

Hey Chris, stop being such an Azz!!

PS, not telling which Chris I am talking too, heck, could just be talking to myself, LOL!!!

boys is it just crazy thinking that you can pluck a motor from the scrap pile that has a hole in the pan and expect that if you replace the pan add oil that it will run? Hell maybe I need to be smoking the same stuff chris is then it might all come together

Personally, I would address the engine first especially if you won't need it for months to prevent or slow down any rust damage it may have. I look at the cylinder walls will be a good indication of the overall engines condition as they seem to rust out first as there's only a thin film of oil on them anyway. If the walls are clean then I would pull all the plugs and shoot some oil or fogging spray into all cylinders and turn over by hand. Then address the botton end like 79 said and cover all with an assembly lube that will release itself once you fire it up and get it hot. If you've got any rust I would pull it apart and at the very least hone it and go with new rings and bearings and it should run for a while. Cam lobes will be suspect too as they get wiped pretty clean of oil so sitting for too long is no good,

If it's a low hour engine and the walls are good I wouldn't be concerned about the bearings but I would probably pull a cap anyway and take a look. You'll be able to tell right away what you've got.

SNobsessed wrote: Chris ('79) won't an engine typically start knocking or give some other warning sign before it throws a rod?

sometimes but not all of the times. If the rod, wrist pin, or even the cam has any kind of stress fracture or fatique then you throw some rust into to open it a little more it can just let go and be done.

C-Bass wrote: You sure about how the damage was caused??? Maybe the PO was just trying to flush out old engine oil like this guy Oil Flush Good luck with the repair Chris.

This has got to be a joke! Nobody's that stupid!