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rosconole View Drop Down
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    Posted: December-06-2008 at 1:48pm
I am looking for suggestions on fresh water cooling kits for my '89, I may be relocating to a coastal area and might have my arm twisted a few times in the future to go out on tampa bay....
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 8122pbrainard Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: December-06-2008 at 2:10pm
Ross,
You may want to just consider a flush kit for the few times out in the salt. The fresh water cooling kits are expensive and although I've never installed one have heard they can be a real PITA.


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote stimie02 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: December-06-2008 at 2:35pm
It is relatively easy to install a few valves immediately after the raw water intake which would allow you to hook the engine up to a garden hose when the boat is out of the water and run it flushing out the salt water. I did the exact same thing to my 89' 2001 and spent I believe $30.00 for the parts from Lowes. I will take some pictures for you of what I have if you like. I also believe that some of the other guys here have done the same thing.
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rosconole View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote rosconole Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: December-06-2008 at 2:44pm
i do have flush kit already.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 81nautique Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: December-06-2008 at 4:46pm
Flush kit will do it for the engine but don't forget about the trailer, salt water will destroy a trailer amazingly fast. Best thing is a $79 pressue washer from HD or lowes for after each use but it will still take it's toll. You can also get flush kits that attach to the backer plateif you have drum brakes on the trailer.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 75 Tique Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: December-06-2008 at 5:38pm
Related question: Is there anything involved in changing a fresh water cooled system back to a raw water cooled? Is it just a case of taking off the heat exchanger and plumbing directly to the RWP? I thought I heard somebody say once that it was an involved process going from FWC to RWC.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 8122pbrainard Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: December-07-2008 at 10:40am
Larry,
Are you considering removing a F/W system? There would be some weight savings but not that much. I'd say maybe 30lbs. Besides the weight, I'd just keep the system unless the heat exchanger has a leak.

Converting back to a raw water wouldn't be that involved. I'd say new hoses (like the J bend from the circ pump to the T stat housing) and possibly even a T stat housing would be needed. Ideally, if it was a conversion from raw to fresh, having all the original parts would be a plus!!

One of the many kits out there. This one is for a small block PCM.


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 75 Tique Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: December-07-2008 at 6:03pm
Pete,

Thanks for the info.   Remember the wood boat project I mentioned on the other thread? I found a candidate for a motor. An old 318, but its in a larger cruiser (i.e. salt water). I can get it for pretty cheap, but I was wondering what it would involve taking all the FWC junk off.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 8122pbrainard Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: December-07-2008 at 6:51pm
Larry,
Wow! The Chrysler may be a tough one! They always did their cooling their own way and on the complicated side. I'll bet there's some special (different) components on the F/W. Take a close look at it before you commit. Post some pictures. Look at pictures of R/W cooled 318's. Look through the Chrysler manual here in the ref. section.

Also, if it's got a reduction trans on it, you may be better off looking farther.


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote k.o. Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: December-07-2008 at 7:45pm
don't worry to waste your money on a closed system as long as you flush it properly it will last. since you said you already have a flush kit spend the money buying lubricant for the trailer and to spray on the engine or anything else that will rust altough they are still gonna rust.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote TRBenj Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: December-07-2008 at 7:59pm
Pete, obviously the reduction drive may not be ideal- but that all comes down to price. A deal is a deal!

Larry, you may want to shoot Reid an email. I know he has a little bit of experience with the cooling system on the Chryslers. Him and Marshall were able to get an aftermarket (automotive) intake manifold to work on his 273 (and now 340), so I suspect you would have some options.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 75 Tique Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: December-07-2008 at 8:47pm








It is a bit rough Pete, and definitely reduction transmission (1.91:1) but I have a lead on a 1:1 that I assume would bolt on since a BW is on it. I'm not in a big rush to get this one, rather wait for a better ford or chevy, but I think about this one because its cheap and close. I am in not hurry.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 8122pbrainard Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: December-07-2008 at 9:13pm
Larry,
I don't see a heat exchanger in the pictures. I do see the trans cooler port side below the exhaust manifold. Are you sure it's F/W cooled? From the pictures, it looks to me to be R/W cooled.

I see what you mean about it being on the rough side!

I agree with Tim regarding the "deal" but it better be a real good one! Does it turn over?


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 79nautique Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: December-08-2008 at 1:29pm
you really don't want to take it out into Tampa bay, very swallow and can be quite rough at times. Besides why go in the bay when you can head east and in less than an hour be over at the chain of lakes where John ski's or up to the norhtern burs where Eddie runs his in fresh water. You have some many fresh water options that are better choices than running it in that nasty ass bay. You basicly are going to have to stay in the marked channels within the bay or you will knock the rudder and prop off the boat running it outside of the dredged channels. The bay is not like what you would think where you can just run any where, might if you catch the tide right but mis the tide coming in and when it goes back out and you are screwed for hours because you'l be high and dry and boats need to stay wet. I've been out in the bay before so do what you want I wouldn't be doing what you are proposing.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote rosconole Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: December-08-2008 at 1:42pm
I actually grew up in winter haven & orlando. So I know about most of the areas lakeland and east of there. It was just entertaining the idea, because I know how people get winey about riding for an hour just to get in the water. I haven't looked at a chart yet. I know someone did suggest Lake Tarpon awhile back....
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 79nautique Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: December-08-2008 at 2:04pm
Originally posted by rosconole rosconole wrote:

I actually grew up in winter haven & orlando. So I know about most of the areas lakeland and east of there. It was just entertaining the idea, because I know how people get winey about riding for an hour just to get in the water. I haven't looked at a chart yet. I know someone did suggest Lake Tarpon awhile back....


just watch out for the gators and you have to be out of the water pretty early in the evening as they lock the gates at the launch ramp so sking until day light is gone is not a good idea.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 8122pbrainard Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: December-11-2008 at 9:04am
Eric,
Can a reduction Velvet be converted to a 1:1 easily? If the output shaft is the same, then it looks like it's just a matter of removing the reduction box and using a output bearing retainer/cap for a 1:1?


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote eric lavine Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: December-11-2008 at 10:12am
different cases, with some machining on certain cases its possible....but not worth it. one noteworthy note though, the 1.91 planetary fails often which fetches a $500.00 bounty. alot of boats spin a 1.91 and a 2.10 in twin engines, because they spin the 1.91 spins opposite input and the 2.10 spins the same as input eliminating the need for a righty and a lefty powerplant. if you get stuck with either, they are pretty easy to get rid of
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 8122pbrainard Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: December-11-2008 at 10:20am
Eric,
Interesting on the 1.91 and 2.10 Are the prop pitches different or is the difference so little that just a helm position correction is needed to keep the boat going in a straight line?


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