Removing exhaust manifold bolts? |
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Hollywood
Moderator Group Joined: February-04-2004 Location: Twin Lakes, WI Status: Offline Points: 13512 |
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Posted: June-10-2014 at 11:32am |
You are correct. I've done it before too using standard 1/4" drive tools. I slid the socket in from the front, it won't drop down from the top.
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ChowHound
Groupie Joined: July-25-2013 Location: NEast Status: Offline Points: 47 |
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I realize the thread revolved more around stuck bolts (which is a good topic) but, the OP was doing this to change valve cover gaskets.
For others reading, you may want to try a swivel socket to access valve cover bolts. Not a socket with a swivel attached but a socket with the swivel built in. http://www.amazon.com/TEKTON-4963-Impact-Universal-3-Piece/dp/B000NPT6IE/ref=sr_1_1/189-9134765-7127868?ie=UTF8&qid=1402400783&sr=8-1&keywords=swivel+socket The U-Joint type are narrower than the ball/cup type like sears has. I was able to easily access the valve cover bolts to snug them up last year (87 nautique). I believe you could get them off without removing the manifolds...but, I could be wrong. YMMV -Chow |
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oldcuda
Senior Member Joined: June-22-2010 Status: Offline Points: 474 |
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I did much the same but drilled 3/16 hole in center of head as pilot then 3/8 till the head popped off then vice grips to remove what was left after removing manifold.
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Rockymtnsalom
Newbie Joined: May-29-2014 Location: Colorado Status: Offline Points: 13 |
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I ran into this issue when replacing the manifolds on my 1970 ski nautique. I used a grinder to take off the head of the bolt and the with the manifold removed used vice grips to unscrew the base. This probably wasn't the correct way to go about it but it worked well for me
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seacamper
Platinum Member Joined: June-24-2010 Location: Florida Status: Offline Points: 1056 |
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Hey Eddie, I actually used this as an excuse to go to Harbor Freight and buy a small die grinder and some diamond grinders, but the Dremel actually worked better! Thanks again for the advice. Tom |
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1980 Ski Nautique Boat Bar
1988 Mastercraft Tristar Open Bow 1988 Mastercraft Tristar Closed Bow 1969 Seacamper Houseboat 1986 Harris Pontoon 2004 Seadoo GTX SC + Flydive Xboard 1999 Adventurecraft |
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backfoot100
Platinum Member Joined: January-03-2007 Location: United States Status: Offline Points: 1897 |
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Good to hear Tom. Damn, I forgot all about telling you that the reinforced wheel would probably work best but I'm glad you figured it out.
I have an air compressor with a cutting tool but that thing just wouldn't get in that tight space at all so no reason to mention it. It's always available if you need one though. Again, let me know if you need any help. I'll do whatever I can. |
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When people run down to the lake to see what's making that noise, you've succeeded.
Eddie |
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seacamper
Platinum Member Joined: June-24-2010 Location: Florida Status: Offline Points: 1056 |
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So, the Dremel works great. I actually had to cut the bolt sideways against the manifold, because I could not cut an x because the bolt was so far gone. Anyhoo, the larger reinforced wheel was able to cut right up to the manifold and then I followed it up with a number of shaped stones, and it popped right off. I soaked it with PB Blaster, let it sit, and when I hooked up the vise grips, they slid right out.
Thanks Guys. Tom |
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1980 Ski Nautique Boat Bar
1988 Mastercraft Tristar Open Bow 1988 Mastercraft Tristar Closed Bow 1969 Seacamper Houseboat 1986 Harris Pontoon 2004 Seadoo GTX SC + Flydive Xboard 1999 Adventurecraft |
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8122pbrainard
Grand Poobah Joined: September-14-2006 Location: Three Lakes Wi. Status: Offline Points: 41040 |
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Chris, You are correct. I should have used the term "inexpensive" rather than "cheap". I too have enjoyed having a Dremel. I used to think of them as a gimmick until I bought one for a project and found out how handy they are. I've never had issues with brushes but rather bearings. The bearings went out on my first one so I just went out and bought a second Dremel kit. |
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seacamper
Platinum Member Joined: June-24-2010 Location: Florida Status: Offline Points: 1056 |
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OK, Keep your fingers crossed!
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1980 Ski Nautique Boat Bar
1988 Mastercraft Tristar Open Bow 1988 Mastercraft Tristar Closed Bow 1969 Seacamper Houseboat 1986 Harris Pontoon 2004 Seadoo GTX SC + Flydive Xboard 1999 Adventurecraft |
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SNobsessed
Grand Poobah Joined: October-21-2007 Location: IA Status: Offline Points: 7102 |
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“Beer is proof that God loves us and wants us to be happy.”
Ben Franklin |
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seacamper
Platinum Member Joined: June-24-2010 Location: Florida Status: Offline Points: 1056 |
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So just take a cutting wheel and cut an x in the head,and then whack it with a cold chisel?
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1980 Ski Nautique Boat Bar
1988 Mastercraft Tristar Open Bow 1988 Mastercraft Tristar Closed Bow 1969 Seacamper Houseboat 1986 Harris Pontoon 2004 Seadoo GTX SC + Flydive Xboard 1999 Adventurecraft |
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SNobsessed
Grand Poobah Joined: October-21-2007 Location: IA Status: Offline Points: 7102 |
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I think the link probably showed a cutoff wheel. Get the reinforced ones, the cheap ones shatter very easily (wear eye protection, of course).
BTW Pete, my Dremel may be a cheap homeowners tool, but it is 30 years old, still running on the original brushes & has been run hard many times. It has been a great tool. |
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“Beer is proof that God loves us and wants us to be happy.”
Ben Franklin |
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8122pbrainard
Grand Poobah Joined: September-14-2006 Location: Three Lakes Wi. Status: Offline Points: 41040 |
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"Dremel" is a cheap homeowners die grinder. |
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seacamper
Platinum Member Joined: June-24-2010 Location: Florida Status: Offline Points: 1056 |
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Hey All, Can anyone show me what this tool is? The link does not work. I am running into the same situation. I need to get a couple manifold bolts off. Tom |
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1980 Ski Nautique Boat Bar
1988 Mastercraft Tristar Open Bow 1988 Mastercraft Tristar Closed Bow 1969 Seacamper Houseboat 1986 Harris Pontoon 2004 Seadoo GTX SC + Flydive Xboard 1999 Adventurecraft |
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TRBenj
Grand Poobah Joined: June-29-2005 Location: NWCT Status: Online Points: 21131 |
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You should have followed HW's advice and used a regular 1/2" drive ratchet on it. Works perfectly on the low swept PCM risers. |
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Hollywood
Moderator Group Joined: February-04-2004 Location: Twin Lakes, WI Status: Offline Points: 13512 |
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You were not able to get a 1/2" drive socket wrench in the old plug? I've never had a problem with mine.
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Dave D.
Groupie Joined: June-09-2008 Location: Lake Travis, TX Status: Offline Points: 90 |
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I tried using a piece of square steel that was the proper size and bent on the end like an allen wrench. I also tried a 3/4" rachet extension (without a socket) on it. The problem is with very limited clearance due to the low swept riser that will not allow you to get the tool on it. Whoever tightened it last, left the plugs in just the right position to make getting a tool on it impossible. I even tried using vice grips on the outer diameter of the plugs, but they were stuck like chuck. Even with PB blaster and tapping them to set up vibration, no dice.
With the new plugs I am using, any old wrench will work, no matter what position they are in. |
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Hollywood
Moderator Group Joined: February-04-2004 Location: Twin Lakes, WI Status: Offline Points: 13512 |
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What kind of tool(s) were you using? All you need is a 1/2" drive socket wrench. I do agree that you will have an easier time removing a stripped square head over a square socket plug.
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Dave D.
Groupie Joined: June-09-2008 Location: Lake Travis, TX Status: Offline Points: 90 |
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Yep! The plugs on mine were turned at a position that I could not get a tool on them. They were obviously on there for a long time and one of the square pockets rounded out. I had to drill it out to remove it. The new ones get some anti-seize and just the right amount of torque to keep from over tightening. With the outer boss...it's MUCH easier to get a tool on them when they need to be removed for winterizing.
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Hollywood
Moderator Group Joined: February-04-2004 Location: Twin Lakes, WI Status: Offline Points: 13512 |
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You're saying you replaced the square socket plug with a square head plug? I like the top one better. The bottom variety seems much easier to strip. Don't overtighten and you won't have any problems with either. |
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Dave D.
Groupie Joined: June-09-2008 Location: Lake Travis, TX Status: Offline Points: 90 |
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Update: I seperated the risers from the manifolds and hot tanked them and then sandblasted them. I took them to a local machine shop to have them re-surfaced. It's very important to do this! It cost me $100 which I thought was a little steep, but those guys have to eat too. I then sprayed everything with some good automotive self etching primer and then two coats of hi-gloss/hi temp black spray paint. I got all new bolts, gaskets, and fittings from skidim.com. I also installed new corregated rubber hose. The thing looks brand new! She's going in the water on Friday for a shake down cruise. I am also gonna test my new speedo gauge and pitot. Woo hoo, spring is almost here! It's supposed to be 85 degrees today...
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Dave D.
Groupie Joined: June-09-2008 Location: Lake Travis, TX Status: Offline Points: 90 |
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I agree. I plan to dip these parts and will inspect for any damage. This boat has spent it's life running two lakes in our area that are full of hard calcium water so I do see a lot of white build up on the inside of the risers. I might try soaking them in CLR before dipping them just to see how much of the hard deposits I can remove.
I had one of the stock manifold drain plugs that was stuck like chuck so I drilled it out. I found some nice brass 3/4" plugs with outer square bolt heads at Lowes to replace the stock recessed type of plug. This will make removal of these things MUCH easier. I can't wait to get these things restored and back on the boat. Next up, I plan to pull the prop and get it to the Nettle's Prop Shop for a re-do. While I have it off, I want to replace the strut bearing and check my alignment. After that, I should be good to go for the summer. |
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79nautique
Grand Poobah Joined: January-27-2004 Location: United States Status: Offline Points: 7872 |
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the riser and manifiolds need to be diped and cleaned so the internals are clean.
the manifolds needs inspecteced for rust and possible faulure area's and replaced if needed. Risers rairly go bad unless used in salt or brackish water so cleaning, internally, is all that is ever needed. the manifolds see tons of heat and can rust faster and fail aka crack and leak. With the risers removed you should be able to see the internal passages to a degree and a small mirror helps as well. But you can inspect and if you remove the rear drain plug and see lots of rust flakes then it's time to concider replacing before you hydro-lock the motor from a cracked leaking manifold and have to spend way more than the three hundred or so to get new PCM's |
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81nautique
Grand Poobah Joined: September-03-2005 Location: Big Rock, Il Status: Offline Points: 5772 |
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Dave, I use High temp disk brake caliper paint on my manifolds. It will still burn off down low by the exhaust ports but otherwise it holds up very well and has a nice gloss to it.
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You can’t change the wind but you can adjust your sails
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Dave D.
Groupie Joined: June-09-2008 Location: Lake Travis, TX Status: Offline Points: 90 |
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The x-cut worked like a charm...I was able to cut off the heads of four bolts that were bad. I was able to pull the manifold off over the studs and then used vice grips to easily remove the studs. Luckily the other side's manifold came off without any trouble. I have seperated the manifolds from the risers and will sandblast, prime, and re-paint them along with all new bolts, gaskets, and fittings. I might as well detail the engine block while I have it apart. Thanks for all the great advice you guys gave me. It won't be long and I will be back on the lake with a sweet running Correct Craft!
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Waterdog
Grand Poobah Joined: April-27-2006 Location: United States Status: Offline Points: 2020 |
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79,
I forgot the X-cut trick. Removed a lot of chassis rivets like that. Cut a X then use a rivet gun with a chisel. Oh wear ear plugs! |
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Dave D.
Groupie Joined: June-09-2008 Location: Lake Travis, TX Status: Offline Points: 90 |
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Great advice '79, that makes sense. I believe I have some of those fiberglass cut off wheels. I am off on Fridays so I should have the manifolds off by tomorrow afternoon. It's amazing that something made of fiberglass can cut hardened steel! Stranger things have happened, I guess.
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79nautique
Grand Poobah Joined: January-27-2004 Location: United States Status: Offline Points: 7872 |
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use this if you are using your dremel tool
cut an x in the head and then use your cold chisel to pop them off the rest of the way if you cannot get to it to cut it off perpendicular to the thread body. |
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79nautique
Grand Poobah Joined: January-27-2004 Location: United States Status: Offline Points: 7872 |
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best thing to use is a cut off wheel on a die grinder and cut the bolt head off, then use a grinding wheel to get the rest of it.
next best is a cutting torch. don't forget to spray PB or liquid wrench between the mainfold and block that's where the threads start, remove all of the other bolts except the one that is broke and that should create a small gap where it can wick into, it won't wick all of the way from the outside of the manifold to where the threads are after that install one other bolt at the opposite end tear out the gasket helps as well to get the the penetrating oil to where it needs to be. |
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Dave D.
Groupie Joined: June-09-2008 Location: Lake Travis, TX Status: Offline Points: 90 |
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Definately taking my time...I have been trying to drill the heads off without much progress. It's time to try some new tricks. I have a torch, chisels, dremmel, cold case of beer, etc to spend the weekend on this project. I have been very cautious not to screw up the manifold flanges.
With enough work and patience, I WILL get them off. I have all new bolts and bunch of other new goodies coming from Skidim...and spring is on it's way! I can't wait to get back out on the water for some fun in the sun. Now, if we could just get out of this severe Texas drought we are in to fill up the lake... |
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