Removing exhaust manifold bolts?

I realize the thread revolved more around stuck bolts (which is a good topic) but, the OP was doing this to change valve cover gaskets.

For others reading, you may want to try a swivel socket to access valve cover bolts. Not a socket with a swivel attached but a socket with the swivel built in.

http://www.amazon.com/TEKTON-4963-Impact-Universal-3-Piece/dp/B000NPT6IE/ref=sr_1_1/189-9134765-7127868?ie=UTF8&qid=1402400783&sr=8-1&keywords=swivel+socket

The U-Joint type are narrower than the ball/cup type like sears has.

I was able to easily access the valve cover bolts to snug them up last year (87 nautique). I believe you could get them off without removing the manifolds...but, I could be wrong.

YMMV
-Chow

I ran into this issue when replacing the manifolds on my 1970 ski nautique. I used a grinder to take off the head of the bolt and the with the manifold removed used vice grips to unscrew the base. This probably wasn't the correct way to go about it but it worked well for me

Good to hear Tom. Damn, I forgot all about telling you that the reinforced wheel would probably work best but I'm glad you figured it out.
I have an air compressor with a cutting tool but that thing just wouldn't get in that tight space at all so no reason to mention it. It's always available if you need one though.

Again, let me know if you need any help. I'll do whatever I can.

SNobsessed wrote: BTW Pete, my Dremel may be a cheap homeowners tool, but it is 30 years old, still running on the original brushes & has been run hard many times. It has been a great tool.

Chris,
You are correct. I should have used the term "inexpensive" rather than "cheap". I too have enjoyed having a Dremel. I used to think of them as a gimmick until I bought one for a project and found out how handy they are. I've never had issues with brushes but rather bearings. The bearings went out on my first one so I just went out and bought a second Dremel kit.

8122pbrainard wrote: You should be able to cut into the head most of the way without hitting the casting with the standard Dremel cut off wheel/arbor. Then with a cold chisel break it off (remember it's hard!!) the rest of the way. You may then need to go back at it with a mounted stone to remove what's left of the head.

I think the link probably showed a cutoff wheel. Get the reinforced ones, the cheap ones shatter very easily (wear eye protection, of course).


BTW Pete, my Dremel may be a cheap homeowners tool, but it is 30 years old, still running on the original brushes & has been run hard many times. It has been a great tool.

79nautique wrote: use this if you are using your dremel tool cut an x in the head and then use your cold chisel to pop them off the rest of the way if you cannot get to it to cut it off perpendicular to the thread body.

Hey All,
Can anyone show me what this tool is? The link does not work. I am running into the same situation. I need to get a couple manifold bolts off.
Tom

You were not able to get a 1/2" drive socket wrench in the old plug? I've never had a problem with mine.

What kind of tool(s) were you using? All you need is a 1/2" drive socket wrench. I do agree that you will have an easier time removing a stripped square head over a square socket plug.

Dave D. wrote: I found some nice brass 3/4" plugs with outer square bolt heads at Lowes to replace the stock recessed type of plug. This will make removal of these things MUCH easier.

You're saying you replaced the square socket plug


with a square head plug?


I like the top one better. The bottom variety seems much easier to strip. Don't overtighten and you won't have any problems with either.

I agree. I plan to dip these parts and will inspect for any damage. This boat has spent it's life running two lakes in our area that are full of hard calcium water so I do see a lot of white build up on the inside of the risers. I might try soaking them in CLR before dipping them just to see how much of the hard deposits I can remove.

I had one of the stock manifold drain plugs that was stuck like chuck so I drilled it out. I found some nice brass 3/4" plugs with outer square bolt heads at Lowes to replace the stock recessed type of plug. This will make removal of these things MUCH easier. I can't wait to get these things restored and back on the boat.

Next up, I plan to pull the prop and get it to the Nettle's Prop Shop for a re-do. While I have it off, I want to replace the strut bearing and check my alignment. After that, I should be good to go for the summer.

Dave, I use High temp disk brake caliper paint on my manifolds. It will still burn off down low by the exhaust ports but otherwise it holds up very well and has a nice gloss to it.

79,
I forgot the X-cut trick. Removed a lot of chassis rivets like that. Cut a X then use a rivet gun with a chisel. Oh wear ear plugs!

use this if you are using your dremel tool

cut an x in the head and then use your cold chisel to pop them off the rest of the way if you cannot get to it to cut it off perpendicular to the thread body.

Definately taking my time...I have been trying to drill the heads off without much progress. It's time to try some new tricks. I have a torch, chisels, dremmel, cold case of beer, etc to spend the weekend on this project. I have been very cautious not to screw up the manifold flanges.

With enough work and patience, I WILL get them off. I have all new bolts and bunch of other new goodies coming from Skidim...and spring is on it's way! I can't wait to get back out on the water for some fun in the sun. Now, if we could just get out of this severe Texas drought we are in to fill up the lake...