freeze plugs

Got the old gal (90 Sport) out today, cleaned and fired her up. 5/6 freeze plugs are out! I called myself winterizing it, apparently not good enough. Usually not that big of a problem down here in Bama.

Anyway, I guess step 1 is to replace them, picked up some of the expandable ones (so I can drain better next winter) and those will work in the back... but not going to be able to get those in the holes behind the engine mounts. Anyone replace those? Just wondering if I'm going to be able to tap them in without getting the mounts out of the way.

Then step 2 is going to be making sure there's no further damage. I won't sleep well until I find that out! One positive sign is that it ran for a few minutes before I noticed what was going on, and the oil still looks great. I have heard that sometimes problems show up after the engine has heated and cooled a few times. So I may not sleep well for a week or so. :)

I guess it's going to be a non-issue with the removable plugs in... just wondering what I missed on the winterizing. I took a pretty good look after I saw what had happened and didn't see any petcock valves or anything. Still like to find out if anyone knows.

Didn't use the bucket method, apparently used the bonehead method. I stopped by one day and drained the tranny, removed impeller, belts, etc.. but forgot my 1/2" ratchet for the water manifolds. So went by later to do that and somehow just forgot to drain the block.

Woke up around 3am last night realizing that no water in the oil probably didn't mean much since there was very little pressure with the freeze plugs out. :(

Couldn't concentrate at work so took a long lunch, grabbed some freeze plugs, and went by to tinker. I *think* I can work them in without removing the mounts. Won't be able to get a good, straight-in tap on them but hopefully can press them in by leveraging on the mount.

Questions -
The auto parts store only had steel plugs, and one type was thinner and one was thicker. I'm thinking the thicker one will be more forgiving with the prying method I'm looking to use - should I be concerned about it going in further and obstructing flow? I thought there was a 'seat' that the plugs bottomed out on?

All of the brass plugs were laying there apparently unharmed, would I be better off just reusing them?

For what it's worth:   While I completely agree that not draining the block first is a really bad idea, I did do it that way in the heart of the tundra in Minnesota for about 10 years. And we get stupid cold every winter, -30 or worse.
I never used RV antifreeze when I did it that way, just automotive, undiluted. I never had a problem, and feel fortunate.
Always drain the block and heater core if applicable.

you may be lucky, i didnt realize you were from Ala. it doesnt deep below freezing to often?

Riley wrote: No idea where it went.

It might be inside the block?

Boats also seem to have a way of making things disappear...especially if it was the only one of something you had!

Yikes! Anyone know if there are freeze plugs behind the flywheel?! (Eric's question)

Also, on the alignment afterwards if the mounts are removed - attaching a pic of a similar mount... just wondering if the 'adjuster' (piece 5 in the diagram) isn't moved wouldn't the alignment be okay? I'm intimidated by the alignment task - read many threads about it and a couple of procedures that were linked... sounds hairy.





Oh, and Eric - it dips below freezing some but rarely stays below during the day.   Most times not long enough for a hard freeze... but usually at least one / winter. Just enough to have to winterize everything. :)   I'm in the northern part.. central and most certainly south Alabama probably don't have to bother.



Tom

Tapenick - The alignment is not hard, just tedious. This is something that should be done once a year, at least checked. If you still feel like you need help, come to one of the reunions & someone can coach you on it.

Thanks for the reassurance on the alignment, guess I'll print one of the procedures and take a look while at the boat. This afternoon is looking like D-Day.

Had heard that about freeze plugs just being there as a side-effect of the casting process, just didn't know what else to call them. 'Those plugs in the side of the block that they use for casting' just doesn't roll off my tongue. :) Cast plugs, kind of like that though.

Anyone have input on the plugs behind the flywheel? I figured as many as Eric has been in he knows and is just being modest. But I hope not! :)

Update - my original 'D-Day' got canceled, as did the next, and the next. Carved out a Saturday but couldn't get my hands on a cherry picker. So took it to the local CC dealer thinking I was never going to get to it. Well, I neglected to ask when *they* were going to get to it, and when I called to check on it after a couple of days they informed me it was going to be a couple of weeks! So, I picked it up yesterday morning and did the job myself.

An outline / few tips for any first-timers doing this... this'll be old news to you experts and some of it just plain common sense but throwing it out here:

Note - I did one side at a time.
1. Remove the bolts securing the mount to the block
2. Lift slowly with hoist until there is tension.
3. Remove bolts securing the mount to the boat
4. There were two aluminum shims under the mount on mine, lift slowly with hoist, just enough so you can slide those out. This was spooky to me, didn't want to stress the other mounts. Anyone - should I have removed the bolts from *all* mounts before lifting? I only lifted a fraction of an inch.. just enough to slide those shims out. Do most CCs have the shims under the mounts? That made the job *much* easier.
5. Once the shims are out you can slide the mounts out of the way. On the right (driver's) side there was enough room. On the left I ended up removing the dipstick and oil filter so I could slide the mount further forward.
6. Haynes manual impression - "Install plugs and reassemble in reverse order" :)

I don't know if this was the right way or best way but it worked. No leaks so far. Also, no water in the oil so far but the jury is still out. Heard sometimes the cracks won't show until the engine is heated up / cooled down several times.

Thanks for all of the help guys!



Tom