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77 graphics resto

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77 nautique View Drop Down
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    Posted: June-01-2009 at 2:30pm
Ok so I have finally found the time to start working on my graphics. I was originally going to strip the old painted graphics, wet sand and repaint them but I can't help but think that might be taking it too far. For the most part the gel is in pretty good shape except for some nicks and a few deep scratches in a few spots and that water line stain which I was told by a fellow CC owner last year at the N.E. Reunion that On and off makes a product that takes the stain right out.
So here's where I think I'm at...my plan is to use that product to clean the hull, than to use 3M compound with a buffer, than follow that up with the 3M finesse it. I bought this masking paper from an auto body supply shop that is translucent so I can put that over the graphics and trace with an exacto knife to get my stencil. Than paint.
The only concern I have is that when I do the compound that some of the paint from the original decals will come off and get mixed in and inbeded into the gel and that it might make the white have a blue tint. Any thoughts?
Thanks, Jeff
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote TRBenj Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: June-01-2009 at 5:34pm
Jeff, the blue wont run into the white when you buff it out. Just be careful when going over the paint- it wont hold up as well as the gel (which is much harder).

On/Off is good stuff- it should take any stain right off the gel. Just dont let it sit at all on any painted surface- like the trailer! Rinse thoroughly.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Mark Mel Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: June-01-2009 at 5:53pm
77, does your lettering have a painted outline on all the letters? My 78 does and I was thinking of trying what you are going to but I was not sure how to handle the outline.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 77 nautique Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: June-01-2009 at 6:03pm
Hey Tim, so it seems like I'm on the right track than hua?

By the way, a few months ago I got an e-mail from this guy that lives by me saying he has a boat like mine. Turns out to be your uncle Todd! Even beter yet...we work at the same place! Small world hua.

Anyway, how would you recomend going about filling all of the 1/8" holes the PO drilled down the side of the boat and across the transom for snaps for a cover? There are about 6 or 7 per side. I have some West Systems left over from my pylon repair. I stoped in West Marine yesterday and they had this gel coat filler stuff. Ideas?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 77 nautique Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: June-01-2009 at 6:23pm
Hey Mark, yes mine has the shadow. I think that's what your referring to right? I was talking to Woody at Southeast Correct Craft and he was saying that if I wanted to go for that look to use an air brush before removing the stencil. I'm thinking of not doing the shadow. I know it's original but I think mine being dark blue might look just as good if not better without it. I remember yours from the reunion last year and I think it looks good with the shadow.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Mark Mel Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: June-01-2009 at 6:43pm
It's not really a shadow per se, it's outlined around all the letters. Looks like it was hand done.

Although my side lettering is mostly good, I really should start on the transom lettering which doesn't have any outline.

Let me know how it goes because I'm sure you'll get to it sooner than me.

Are you going to use the rustoleum like the original paint?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote TRBenj Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: June-01-2009 at 6:47pm
Jeff, that story sounds familiar! Small world indeed.

Sounds like youre on the right track. For the holes, I think you'll want to fill them with resin, then router out a little bit and do a small gel coat repair. The trick is matching the color!

I think the shadow around the letters is very cool- I was admiring your '77 with its original paint at the reunion actually! That being said, if youre going with a darker blue that wont show the black shadow too much, it can look great without it as well. Skip Buxton's '78 Tique in the diaries is a good example of that. His doesnt have a shadow and it looks clean.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 77 nautique Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: June-01-2009 at 7:14pm
Mark, that was the next question I was going to put out there. Unless someone convinces me otherwise I think I am going with the Rustolium. Mostly in part because both Jeff Roach from Adirondack Marine and Woody both said that's what they would do and have done in the past with much success. Just thin it down with Acetone and spray away. That's what I used in my trailer and it worked out very well. At the time I couldn't seem to justify spending upwards of 200 dollars on good epoxy paint for a trailer.   I almost hate to admit that it seams almost as durable if not more than the PPG Concept paint that I have used quite a bit in the past. And a whole lot cheaper too!
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Mark Mel Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: June-01-2009 at 7:21pm
They used it and it's lasted 32+ years in harsh environments.

Although every once and a while I get the thought that I'd like to do my letters in the same color with a heavy flake in orange clear. :)
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Mark Mel Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: June-02-2009 at 3:35pm
So I took the boat out for the first time yesterday. Looking at the transom, the rear lettering is outlined as well.

I need to figure out a way to make a mask, actually 2, one for the solid lettering and one for the outline.

The transom needs to be wet sanded and polished and then re-lettered. It's not as shiny as the sides.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 8122pbrainard Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: June-02-2009 at 4:45pm
Originally posted by 77 nautique 77 nautique wrote:

Just thin it down with Acetone and spray away.


Jeff,
So far all the guys are giving you very sound advice with the Rustoleum and the stencil. I always love it when someone goes back to the original!!

I however would stay away from the Acetone for reducing the Rustoleum. By the time you get it to the viscosity the gun needs, you are going to end up with a very "fast" paint. The evaporation rate of the Acetone is just too quick. I feel you should consider a slower solvent such as Toluene which is slower. It's about half way between the Actone and spirits. BTW, Rustoleum recommends spirits but I feel it's too slow. I've used the Toluene with great success.

Do some experimenting with the air brush shadow. It's really a nice effect (plus original)!!


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 77 nautique Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: June-02-2009 at 6:18pm
Pete, you are defiantly right about how long it takes for rustoleum to dry using mineral spirits as a thinner. When I decided to go that route when I did my trailer I noticed that Lowes carried two types of Rustoleum, professional and the regular stuff. One of them says to use acetone and the other spirits (can't recall which is which) but anyway I couldn't find anyone at the time who could tell me what the difference was. So since I knew I already had a gallon of mineral spirits at home I went with that one. It took almost a week to dry to the point where I felt I could handle the trailer without leaving fingerprints in the paint. I mentioned acetone only because that's what Woody said he used but I will take your advice on the toluene. I'm a little leary to use other chemicals if they are not in black and white on the can unless I talk to people like yourself who have done it before.
As far as the air brush goes, should I buy a good one or would a cheapy get the job done for the shadow? I don't normally cheap out on tools but I don't see much air brushing in my future. The shadowing from the factory looks far from perfect anyhow.
Thanks for the advice!
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 8122pbrainard Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: June-02-2009 at 10:37pm
Jeff,
I'd go cheap on the airbrush. (Harbor Freight or Northern Tool?) I never buy cheap but this would be a exception for me too. It's not like you're trying to lay down full wet coats and it may just be a one shot usage.


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Tim D Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: June-03-2009 at 1:31am
An airbrush would take forever. You need a touch up gun to do that much spraying.
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=66871
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 77 nautique Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: June-03-2009 at 2:00am
Tim, I do have a nice Sharp touch up gun that I plan to use for the main graphics. where i'm going to use the airbrush is around the edges of the letters. Like how it came from the factory.
I'm going to try to post some pics.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 77 nautique Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: June-03-2009 at 2:27am
Here are a few before pic's of where I am at. By the way I used that ON AND OFF to remove the waterline below the graphics and that stuff is like magic... I have never gotten such results so fast without some sort of elbow grease. Notice the test spot. That only sat for about two minutes!
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 77 nautique Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: June-03-2009 at 2:33am
Oh, and here's a good one. This really makes my boat look like a gem.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Tim D Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: June-03-2009 at 11:00am
I know what part you're refering to. I have three air brushes, it will take a while to spray the shadowing with an air brush. Are you going to use frisket? It will make everything a lot easier, and the best masking tape is "The Edge" by 3M.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 77 nautique Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: June-03-2009 at 12:11pm
I'm not sure of the name of the paper I bought from the auto body supply shop. I will have to look when I get home from work today. I cut a piece off the roll the other day and stuck it over the graphics to see how well I could see through it and tried cutting it with an exato. It worked very well and seemed to stick good around where I cut. I do have some of that 3M tape in various withs as well. Before I spray I will experiment with the gun to see if it will let me spray that shadow. I do know that I have a lot of cutting to do.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 79TiqueRebuild Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: June-07-2009 at 4:52pm
By the way I used that ON AND OFF to remove the waterline below the graphics and that stuff is like magic... I have never gotten such results so fast without some sort of elbow grease. Notice the test spot. That only sat for about two minutes!



Where could I get the ON AND OFF? I have never seen the product. Keep the pics and process coming I would like to attempt my graphics someday.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote kman Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: June-08-2009 at 5:47pm
OK - I will probably get grilled for this, but I am about to repaint the stripe on my 76 Southwind. I was going to mask off and use a paint brush though so I am sure to get a really thick coat. I bought an expensive paint brush and tested it on a smooth surface and was able to do it with no brush strokes.

As small as the stripe and lettering are, I thought this would be much easier than masking off most of the boat to avoid all the overspray.

Speaking of masking. Does the painters blue tape or the green frog tape work good enough to stop the bleeding?

Am I crazy?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Mark Mel Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: June-08-2009 at 6:23pm
I don't think you're crazy at all, I think they were originally brushed on in the first place.

I would look for 3M fine line masking tape in autobody or parts stores.

I think you're chance of bleeding is less than the green or blue tape.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote dt's76tique Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: June-08-2009 at 11:43pm
I so much want to redo the lettering and graphics on my 76 tique need to have some gel coat repair done on the top back corners of the boat and a few spots where it has been scratched should i have the gel coat repaired first and then do the lettering? I still doing my trailer so not sure i will tackle the letters till I see how well my paint job on the trailer comes out. I also went with the rustoleum paint from lowes it seams to do a very nice job on the trailer. The on/off stuff looks like it works very well where can i find some?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote dt's76tique Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: June-08-2009 at 11:44pm
I so much want to redo the lettering and graphics on my 76 tique need to have some gel coat repair done on the top back corners of the boat and a few spots where it has been scratched should i have the gel coat repaired first and then do the lettering? I still doing my trailer so not sure i will tackle the letters till I see how well my paint job on the trailer comes out. I also went with the rustoleum paint from lowes it seams to do a very nice job on the trailer. The on/off stuff looks like it works very well where can i find some?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 8122pbrainard Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: June-09-2009 at 9:56am
Originally posted by Mark Mel Mark Mel wrote:

I don't think you're crazy at all, I think they were originally brushed on in the first place.

I would look for 3M fine line masking tape in autobody or parts stores.

I think you're chance of bleeding is less than the green or blue tape.


Dito!


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 77 nautique Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: June-09-2009 at 12:08pm
Dt, unless your gel coat repair is close to your graphics you will be fine doing your graphics first. I had about 20 1/8" holes that the previous owner drilled down the sides and across the transom for a cover that were on or close to my graphics. I filled each hole with West Systems epoxy pushing it in with my finger to make a recess for my gel coat repair to sit in. Mixed up the filler and tinted it to match the color,let it dry and wet sanded it with 600 than 800 grit than buffed it out with 3M compound using a buffer around 1500 rpm. Came out extremely well. I am still in the masking phase but I will post some pics after it comes off. I'm hoping to spray one day next week. By the way I decided to mask each letter individually with the fine line instead of cuting a stencil with an exato for 2 reasons. 1) no mater how hard I tried there was no way to get the paper to lay perfectly flat even though they claim it is flexible. 2) using the tape you have more control over your lines. If you don't like it, pull the tape up and try again as where with the tracing tape you get one shot. Using 1/8 tape is key for making real tight curves like inside your q's and a's. I did however use the paper to go over everything after I did the fine line than cut out each letter cutting carefully on the fine line tape as not to cut through it. That made a really nice mask for around the letters. I will try to post some progress pics when I get home from work today.
As for the On and Off I bought mine at West marine. I noticed that the local marina had it as well.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote filmhog Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: January-30-2010 at 1:55pm
Hello to the group. I have a 79 SN that had the graphics virtually scrubbed off by the previous owner. My roadmap is gone on the hull. If one of you gentlemen finish with your mask, I'd be interested in re-using it. My rear graphics are gone too. (what was the guy thinking). I'm trying to figure out how to post my photo here. It is listed in the members photos on another section of the site here. Right now the ski Nautique is a big, white boat.
Thanks for any help.
Jan Sluchak in Reno, NV
79 Ski Nautique
71 Riva Olympic
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