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1980 Ski Nautique Total Restoration

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Watauga Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: October-31-2014 at 9:31pm
Thanks, Mark Pete and Gary. I am planning on fixing the muffler since it is not rotten at all. I am not sure how the puncture occurred; I did not know about it until I removed the hoses last weekend. I will take your advice, Gary. Hopefully that will do it.

How about the paint? Any experience in repainting?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote gun-driver Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: October-31-2014 at 9:53pm
Rustoleum will work fine.
The carpet was wrapped around them from the factory to keep them from vibrating and rubbing against the hull.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Watauga Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: November-01-2014 at 2:49am
Thanks, Paul. I will go with the Rustoleum. I would like to find some blue close to the original color.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Hollywood Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: November-01-2014 at 4:25am
Someone probably pried the hose off at some time and punctured a hole with the tip of a flathead screwdriver.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote ski-guy Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: November-02-2014 at 12:36am
Re tabs for the kick plate (or whatever they are called.)

I just have the tab at the top and screwed through it - I was going to either screw the front one to the one running along the edge of the air-box or use an angle piece between the two pieces of wood to hold them together at the bottom. But so far it seems solid enough just 'pinned' at the top.

I have made more progress since my last post - we fired up the engine today and did a water test. Then I brought it home and winterized it! (it was 6 C (43F) today and that is good for this time of year) - will need to fine tune a bit next season as well as re-do the graphics which are sanded off right now. May try and update my post cause I always liked the ones that go through to the end.
1980 SN - don't worry dear, I may have $10+K into this project boat but I can easily sell it for $5k

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Hollywood Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: November-02-2014 at 2:13pm
I might try big pieces of Velcro to hold those boards to the air box. Simple.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Watauga Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: November-08-2014 at 9:17pm
More yard work today, but did get a few things done on the rebuild.

I went with Rustoleum on the paint for the mufflers; 2 coats of black after using thickened epoxy to fix the hole. After painting I wrapped them with 2 layers of foam insulation and secured the foam with zip ties.



Started working on the manifolds. I have been cleaning them up with wire brush on a grinder. The 3/4 NPT where the plugs and the elbows attach were in rough shape; had to drill one out. I ordered a tap and cleaned up the threads and I think I got them in real good shape. Not a fun job/

I think I mentioned earlier that I broke 4 of the eight bolts that attach the risers to the manifolds. I got 3 of the snapped-off bolts out without too much trouble with easy outs, but 1 was very difficult; I don't have a lot of confidence in threads left. I am going to order a heli-coil and see if It works okay. In the meantime I put together a pressure tester and a plate to seal off the top. I pressure tested them to 10 psi. Is that enough?





I primed and started priming and painting them with Rustoleum high temp primer and paint.



I also started painting bilge coating on the inside transom and under the front floor section that bridges the bilge. This is one coat of TotalBilge epoxy from Jamestown. Planning on 3 coats.



I still am not satisified with the way the rear removable floor section sits on the primary stringers. It rocks a little front to back, so I am going to need to make an adjustment somehow. I couldn't figure out the problem for a while until I realized the marine plywood actually has some rocker/warp in it. now that it has been wrapped with multiple layers of glass I don't think it will straighten out, going to need to either add some patches to the stringer or to the underside of the removable piece.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote cbr1000dude Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: November-09-2014 at 9:33pm
The mufflers were originally wrapped in carpet to keep them from banging around, the foam looks like it would accomplish the same thing, but will it make noise rubbing against the sides and bottom of the channels they sit in? Looks great, but if it squeaks like a Styrofoam cup it'll drive you nuts!
Nice job on the exhaust manifolds, lots of work. There's not much back pressure to speak of, so if they don't leak, you're good to go.
The warped rear wood panel sounds like a PITA to deal with. I'd just make a new one if it were mine. Probably the cheapest part of the project.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Watauga Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: November-09-2014 at 10:31pm
cbr1000dude.
The foam is soft, its the stuff used to insulate around windows before installing vinyl siding. I don't think it will squeak like a foam cup. They are a snug ft between the primaries and secondaries. Yes, mine had carpet around them and over the years had gotten pretty nasty. When I removed the carpet it basically disintergrated it my hands.

I finished the paint on the manifolds this afternoon and I should get my new gaskets from Skidim tomorrow.

Relative to the removable floor section. It just rocked front to back a little, and I wasn't satisfied with leaving it that way. I settled on adding 2 small patches to the underside of the section on the very rear where it sits on the primaries and it fixed it perfectly. It definitely wasn't the least expensive part of my rebuild, though. It is 3/4" high quality marine plywood with 3 layers of biaxial on the top and 1 on the bottom. Not saying anything about the resin and time.

I got one coat of bilge coat on the entire bilge tonight. Really exposed the imperfections in the bilge. I think 2 coats may do it, but planning on 3. Looking forward to finishing that up and moving on to reinstalling the rudder mount, fins, drain port and exhaust ports. Finally feel like I am getting somewhere.

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Watauga Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: November-10-2014 at 3:57pm
Couple of pictures of the bilge with the first coat of TotalBilge.



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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote storm34 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: November-10-2014 at 4:22pm
Looks sharp! Nice work on the project as a whole.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Watauga Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: November-13-2014 at 5:45pm
The beat goes on.

Here is a picture of the ring gear on my flywheel. I considered doing nothing about it before my better judgement spoke up.



I ordered the replacement from Amazon for less than $20. Here is the part number. How could they make this, import it to the US, sell it, and make a profit at 20 bucks with free shipping?




I simply ran a wire brush around the perimeter flange first, then heated the ring until it expanded. It fell off and I suspended the new one on the end of an anvil while heating it up. One heated, I dropped it on the flywheel and it fell into place. After a few minutes it contracted and now is ready to go. Thinking about priming and painting it for no other reason than I can't allow myself to reinstall it and know that it may rust agin after spending the time to clean it up.



I ordered the new ALTDA-106A Flex Plate from EBasicPower for $111.95 including shipping. This is the version that is already trimmed.



I like the Sachs version because it allows better inspection of the compression springs. I can't remember if the flex plate mounting bolts had lock washers on them. Can someone remind me?



I also have temporary mounted the tank so that I could fabricate the drop down for my new bilge blowers. Also temporarrly mounted the rear seat backboard stops that I made out of Starboard. I will reinstall the tank on rubber after installing the rudder port, exhaust port tips, etc. I haven't decided whether to use thru-bolds on the upper boarding platform brackets as of yet. Seems like a good idea?

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 8122pbrainard Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: November-13-2014 at 7:13pm
Originally posted by Watauga Watauga wrote:

I like the Sachs version because it allows better inspection of the compression springs. I can't remember if the flex plate mounting bolts had lock washers on them. Can someone remind me?

I have mentioned it before that the Sachs is better due to the springs seating on a flat surface. Take a look at other plates and you will see that the springs seat in a stamped steel radius bottom. That is pathetic engineering!

Yes, the bolts have lock washers. Do check yours since they may actually be shoulder bolts.


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Watauga Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: November-14-2014 at 2:47am
Thanks, Pete. Yes, it appears shoulder bolts are the ticket. I think I found the ones that I took out when I disassembled it. I think I mentioned earlier that I spent one evening running every loose bolt, screw, fastener through an electro-sonic cleaner fled with Zep purple industrial cleaner. The ones I found appear to be shorter in length than what I would have expected. Also the lock washers are flattened out with no spring. I am going to look in my segerated bolt pile and confirm I have not mistaken these bolts for some other ones that are longer, but I can't think of anywhere else shoulders would be used, other than the bolts that attach the exhaust risers? Going to pay a visit to Fastenal tomorrow to pick up some grade 8 locks and perhaps some longer shoulder bolts.

I replaced the ignition switch tonight and attempted to replace the Teleflex fuel gauge, but I ordered a 2" rather than a 2 1/8 inch model unknowingly. Gonna need to investigate what options I have tomorrow. The original is a 33-240 ohm, and I have already replaced the sender, so I need to find a match for the gauge. I picked up a replacement cigerette lighter receptacle at West in Knoxville, but found out tonight it is too large a diameter to fit in the original hole. The original shorted out years ago and was draining the battery so I unplugged the line voltage from it. I may expand the hole to accommodate the new one since it is much better quality than the original.

I also unfurled and straightened the complete wiring harness this evening and cleaning and inspected every inch of it. Removed all the blasted zip-ties (also known as finger torture devices) and secured the bundle every foot with Scotch 33+. Made a nice job; should be ready to feed through the conduit into the bilge when the time comes.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 8122pbrainard Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: November-14-2014 at 8:42pm
Originally posted by Watauga Watauga wrote:

Thanks, Pete. Yes, it appears shoulder bolts are the ticket. I think I found the ones that I took out when I disassembled it. The ones I found appear to be shorter in length than what I would have expected. Also the lock washers are flattened out with no spring. I am going to look in my segerated bolt pile and confirm I have not mistaken these bolts for some other ones that are longer, but I can't think of anywhere else shoulders would be used, other than the bolts that attach the exhaust risers? Going to pay a visit to Fastenal tomorrow to pick up some grade 8 locks and perhaps some longer shoulder bolts.

Arklie,
Keep in mind that the bolts are in shear and not in tension so the length isn't an issue. All you need is a thread engagement similar to a nut height to hold the bolt in place.


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Gary S Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: November-15-2014 at 12:17am
Nice work,it's really shaping up.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Watauga Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: November-15-2014 at 12:49am
Thanks, Pete.
The existing shoulder bolts were able to be turned 5 1/2 to 6 turns into the flywheel without the locks installed. I assume that is going to be good enough?

Relative to the cigarette lighter receptacle: I hogged out the hole enough with a uni-bit to make it work. I really wanted to use it since it appears to be be much better than the rusty original. And after researching the new fuel gauge situation I learned the body of the new gauge is the same diameter as the old one; the new bezel is much smaller, though, and it does not retain the gauge in the hole. Not to be outdone, I cut the old gauge apart and robbed the bezel off of it, sans the glass, and with a little redneck surgery epoxied the bezel to the new gauge. It looks almost perfect. Will get a picture of the gauge and the cigarette lighter receptacle tomorrow.

Tonight and tomorrow is going to be really cold here in Appalachia, so I am not sure I will get to work much on the boat. My garage is not heated, but I have a salamander heater I could fire up. The original removable rear seat back support plywood, and the removable plywood section of the ski tray did not have any fiberglass mat or cloth on them from the factory, but I am thinking about putting one layer on them, if for no other reason then to make me feel better. They will definitely get CPES even if I decide to to not fiberglass them.



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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Watauga Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: November-15-2014 at 1:14am
Thanks, Gary.
I really like the looks of your Mustang. When I was a punk college kid back in the mid 70s I worked at a marina which was the largest seller of Correct Crafts in (upper) East Tennessee. Lots of Mustangs, American Skiers, Nautiques were sold and kept at the marina while I was working there. I think the most interesting thing I witnessed the first summer was seeing 4 Separators on the water at one time; 2 with bat-boat windshields. I remember that some of the boats had Holman-Moodys in them and one interesting Separator had a Cleveland in it. It was owned by a service station owners son. I am not sure it was original from the factory that way or not. I skied behind it several times and what I learned is that Separators are not good tow-boats, but they do a good job of turning gas into noise.

Each day at work my first duty was to take a work boat with a pump out on the buoy-line and pump water out of an ancient monstrosity of an old wooden creepy cabin cruiser Correct Craft. My job was not to dry it out, that was impossible. I was only supposed to pump it for 20 minutes. I would need to go into the cabin and down into the bowels of the beast and drop my suction line it there and sit down and wait for the 20 minutes to be up. Several times on foggy, rainy overcast days I would fall asleep during the pumping session.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Watauga Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: November-15-2014 at 12:50pm
Here is the picture of the modified VDO fuel gauge, made to resemble an older Teleflex model. The cigarette lighter receptacle was purchased from West, I like that it does not have cheap plating on it. I cut the cover retainer off and will simply keep the cover snapped on it. I don't expect to use it much but I still wanted it functional if I need it someday. Now to track down the toggle switches, fuse holders and related identification plates and dash decals. Nice to be doing something other than grinding gelcoat.

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Gary S Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: November-15-2014 at 1:22pm
Turned out nice. Marty Mabe will have the decals. Fuse holders I have gotten at Radio Shack in the past,but I'm not sure they still have that stuff. McMaster-Carr might have switches and holders too.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Watauga Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: November-18-2014 at 1:53am
Thanks, Gary. I'll check in with Marty.

I starting cutting the new coaming/bolster pad backer plywood and finished with the 3rd coat of TotalBilge last evening. Tonight I got my courage up and drilled 15 holes through the hull. Yikes! I also finished the task of cleaning the remaining factory sealant from the hull fin mounting cavities, the rudder port cavity, the transom area where the exhaust-port penetrations are, the hull drain port area, and where the swim platform mounts. That factory sealant is tough stuff. I would really like to know what it was! I have worked on the removal of it at least several times over the last few months, finally completing it tonight.

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Hollywood Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: November-18-2014 at 11:05am
I thought perhaps you were going with stacked exhaust out the top of the motorbox.

That looks amazing.
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Such a shame to cover it all up. Nice work!
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote DrCC Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: November-18-2014 at 2:11pm
dwcar has the red/chrome hi-perf decals.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Watauga Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: November-19-2014 at 2:45pm
I have done almost this entire project by myself, but reinstalling the fins, cutlass bearing support, and rudder port is going to require some help; it's really not a 1-man job since my arms are too short. My wife is going to be able to help me tonight I hope.

In the meantime, last evening, I began hooking up the ventilation blower hoses under the front deck and in the bilge. Also began running the wiring harnesses and new bilge pump hose through the air box conduit and into the bilge area. I added an additional wire so I can utilize the automatic bilge functionality of the Sahara bilge pump. I think I am also going to install a terminal block on the stern to make it easier for hooking up the stern light base, blowers and fuel cell sending unit. If I don't get any help this evening I am going to snake the new steering cable and control cables through the conduit as well.





And here is a question. Does anyone know the correct part number of a Felpro one piece oil pan gasket for the 351w. I have looked at our normal suppliers like Skidim, and the cost seems really high. Am I wrong?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 8122pbrainard Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: November-19-2014 at 4:45pm
Originally posted by Watauga Watauga wrote:

I have done almost this entire project by myself, but reinstalling the fins, cutlass bearing support, and rudder port is going to require some help; it's really not a 1-man job since my arms are too short.

And here is a question. Does anyone know the correct part number of a Felpro one piece oil pan gasket for the 351w. I have looked at our normal suppliers like Skidim, and the cost seems really high. Am I wrong?

Arklie,
I have installed ports and struts by myself. The flat heads will seat themselves in their countersinks and hold while you tighten up the top sides. The same should be true for the skegs.

Skidim has a tendency to be high $$. Have you called Zach at N3?

The project is looking great.


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote SNobsessed Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: November-19-2014 at 8:21pm
Originally posted by 8122pbrainard 8122pbrainard wrote:

Originally posted by Watauga Watauga wrote:

it's really not a 1-man job since my arms are too short.


The flat heads will seat themselves in their countersinks and hold while you tighten up the top sides.


A few drops of superglue would hold those screws in - then use the floor jack to hold the fin up to the hull while you climb inside to add the hex nuts.
“Beer is proof that God loves us and wants us to be happy.”

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Gary S Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: November-19-2014 at 8:33pm
Look to Summit Racing for the oil pan gasket
something like this? link
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Watauga Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: November-20-2014 at 12:20pm
Gary, thanks for the Summit suggestion. I looked at a few options on that site and I am still confused. The one I think I need is FELPRO 17998, which is the Marine version of the one-piece. But the one you suggested looks like the identical item, and at about 1/2 the price. Does anyone know the difference.

Pete, my help showed up last evening and I was able to install most of the thru-hull ports, etc. I only need to install the exhaust tips tonight, which I don't need help for. I have watched the alignment video. I have a question for you; no matter how much manipulation I do, the shaft is not exactly centered in the log. It isn't far off, and as I remember- it was like this when I disassembled it. Up/down = no problem, almost perfect. port/starboard = off to port a smidgen. I assume the only way to make it 100% perfect would be to elongate the mounting holes (in the hull) toward the starboard? Do you have any suggestions.



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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Watauga Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: November-20-2014 at 12:42pm
I replaced my steering cable and both control cables with Seastar Solutions cables. I really appreciated how easy it was sending the new cables and the electrical harnesses, bilge hose, etc., through the 4" conduit I installed when restoring the boat. Here are a few pictures that might serve someone else when they are restoring a SN of a similar era and looking for the part numbers.

This is the steering cable


The steering cable comes with the helm adaptor. Mine had 2 of these inside the box, although you only need one.




These are the control cables. I used 2 of the same length.
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