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1980 Ski Nautique Total Restoration

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Watauga View Drop Down
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    Posted: June-29-2009 at 4:01pm
Dear Friends,

Just starting a rebuild of the Nautique. Any advice appreciated.







Sitting on my $150 homemade boat lift.































1980 Rebuild
Diary
Signpainter, Disaster Responder, Longline Barefooter
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote kapla Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: June-29-2009 at 9:44pm
yikes!! these looks familiar to me!!! my 92 its under the same phase...
did you put some support under the hull after removing all the stringer?
how was your foam? wet? are you planning on refoaming again?
what are you going to use for stringers wood or composites? check here for stringer jobs and you will find lots of info.
wellcome and keep the pics comming.
good luck on your project...
you can find my thread "point of no return" for my 1992 sn stringer repair.

<a href="">1992 ski nautique
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Watauga Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: June-30-2009 at 2:12am
Hi Kapla,
Yes the foam was soaked. Especially in the front area. I am pretty sure the stringer failure was instigated by a failure of the battery box drain, but the foam in the area under the air box/foot rest was also soaked.
Yes, I am planning on re-foaming. I have looked over lots of posts on this site and I am convinced, for several reasons that re-foaming is the best way to go. This boat is 28 years old. Can I really complain. A new Nautique is how much?
I haven't supported the hull yet, but I plan to before I start putting it back together. Currently the boat is outside and will stay there until all of the grinding is finished. As you can see in the pictures I still need another couple of hours to finish, mostly on the inside transom. Then I will get the boat inside and block it up level.
I ordered clear Douglas Fir today for all the stringers. Looks like about $175.00 for everything, not including the flooring under the seats or the bulkheads. I have not decided yet if I am going to put plywood down or just fiberglass for the floor.

Does anyone have an idea of the cost to order all of the upholstery coverings for an 81?, or is my best way to use someone local?

One more question. I want to replace the rubber transition moldings located where the side walls meet the floor, and also the transition molding between the permanent floor and the removable floor section in the rear of the boat. Does anyone know where to get those?

Also, I want to replave all of the exterior gaskets and seals on the 351 PleasureCraft while the engine is out. Any recomendation on where to get a kit that includes everything I need?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote kapla Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: June-30-2009 at 4:21pm
as for the gasket kits I can give you two stores one is correctcraft parts you will find the email on the links sections or in the ads here..they are site sponsor, another good vendor is skidim.com

good luck on your project
<a href="">1992 ski nautique
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote nautiless Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: June-30-2009 at 5:55pm
Wat:

Good luck on your resto. I'm sure it will be well worth it.
1982 SN 2001 RIP (Resto in Progress)

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Watauga Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: July-01-2009 at 12:39pm
OK, Everyone,
Took last evening off to welcome some family members back home from the mission field. Gonna finish the grinding this evening. All that is left is about 2 hours, mostly on the inside transom where the primary and secondary strings join the transom. Will post a picture of that later this evening.

I would like to order the wood preservative and the resin, mats,foam, and consumable supplies today. Does anyone have a materials list that proved accurate for a SN ?

Thanks in advance.


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Watauga Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: July-02-2009 at 3:00am
Got to work for a while this evening.

While trying to finish up my grinding where the secondaries meet the transom, I noticed a few sparks, so I decided to remove the swim platform. I was trying to leave it on so that it could give some strength to the rear of the boat during the rebuild.

As I removed the screws and the lag bolts, I noticed they were not as tight as I would have hoped. So, I realized I needed to remove the plywood glassed in to the transom that provides backing and strength for the swim platform and the exhaust penetrations. Oh bother.



This how it looked as I began



This is one of the backing pieces, closest to the port side. Soft and wet.



Same condition for the piece that supports and provides mounting for the exhaust flappers.






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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Watauga Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: July-02-2009 at 6:09pm
Here is a before the grinding and removal, and after. I am wondering if the factory glassed in the floor stringers before the plywood pieces were glassed to the transom, or after? Also wondering if I could use just one piece of plywood instead of two. If so, it would mean the secondary stringer would meet the plywood rather than the transom. I am also wondering why the piece that is closest to the side of the boat, does not actually meet the side, but rather ends about 1 inch away. Looks like the factory just used scrap.





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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Watauga Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: July-03-2009 at 12:16am
OK, back from finishing the transom grinding. I think I am about 90% finished with the grinding, only some final detail. Here are a few pictures of the transom. I also removed the majority of the foam that was left as well.











I also decided to cut out the block that is directly behind the pylon. It is used to provide a place to mount a bilge pump. Glad I did, since it was soaking wet as well. I think I will definitely try to find some kind of composit for the replacement since it always be wet and have holes drilled in it.


Thats it until next week. Now to get this fiberglass off me.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 8122pbrainard Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: July-03-2009 at 12:38am
Arklie,
A alternate to using wood to screw the bilge pump down is to epoxy the base directly to the hull. Then there's no worries about water getting into it plus it lets the pump sit lower in the bilge. However, any holes drilled into wood should have CPES injected in them and then when the screw/bolt is installed use 5200 to seal them. The stringers should go all the way to the transom and then any wood on the transom is cut around the stringers and then glassed in.

Keep up with the pictures. It never hurts to not have enough info on stringer replacement.


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Watauga Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: July-11-2009 at 12:03am
OK Friends,
Back at it. I picked up my Douglas Fir yesterday. I set up some saw horses this evening and started figurattin'.
Couple of questions:
On the rear of the stringers where they are pieced together to achieve the correct height for the fuel cell; do you think I can biscuit join the scab rather than the mickey mouse fasteners Correct Craft used from the factory?
I am also wondering about the half moon cut-out that allows drainage from between the primary and secondary stringers. Does anyone believe the cut out needs to be that large?
















Thanks for you advice. I may get them cut tomorrow, but will probably cut them on Monday evening.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote bkhallpass Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: July-11-2009 at 12:58am
See this site for a materials list. One of our members documented his project on this site, and then created his own website to document everything.

http://www.freewebs.com/billsboatworks/

BKH
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote storm34 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: July-11-2009 at 1:06am
Just a bit of advice for when you start to carpet...a ways down the road...hang those carpet trim pieces or lay them our nice and straight. I let mine get all twisted up and had to let them bake in the sun for a while before I could put them back in. Just my $.02
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Watauga Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: July-12-2009 at 8:01pm
Thanks for the advice. Storm, on the rubber termination molding located between the side walls and the floor carpet you mention. Are those available to purchase somewhere? Mine are in pretty good shape, but if they are available, I may want to get those new. Also, of more importance are the rubber transition molding between the side walks, and the removable rear floor. I am missing one of those. I have seen some rebuilds without these, but I want to but mine back as close to original as possible.

How about replacement horns (one too many dips while returning for a downed skier) and replacement floor hinges for the observer bench. Anyone know of a good source?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Watauga Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: March-12-2011 at 8:26pm
Well, after taking a break, I am back on task. The last 2 weekends I have hopefully finished the grinding. Going to try to cut all of the wood this week as time allows. Will also order the epoxy preservative so to have it ready to use as soon as the wood is all cut to fit.

Here are a few pictures after I finished the grinding and flushed the hull out. It does seem that at some time you must just say, "okay, I have ground enough!" I guess you could just grind and grind forever.











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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote WOFTAM Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: March-13-2011 at 12:18pm
Hey Watuga-

I am deep in it but just got the stringers tabbed in and I am starting to get hopeful about actually using this boat this season. Here is a link to my progress.

1981 Ski Nautique

I upload my pics to this album as I make progress. Let me know if I can be of any assistance.
Just because you can does not mean you should.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Watauga Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: March-13-2011 at 12:57pm
Hi Woftam,
I looked at your pictures and you really are in about the same place as me. Couple of questions.
1-Are you using douglas fir?
2-It looks like you have big gaps under the stringers. Are you cool with that or are you going to adjust some how?
3-Is there a reason why you unassembled the engine from the aluminum angle iron mount?
4-Are you planning on removing the fiberglass flooring that is still adhered the the sides of the boat, or just going to glass into it?
5. Going back with foam?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote WOFTAM Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: March-13-2011 at 6:55pm
1. Yes on the Douglas Fir
2. I have filled the gaps between the stringer bottom and the floor with thickened epoxy that I loaded in to an empty caulk tube.
3. No real reason why I removed the motor from the grid although it really helped in squaring up the primaries before bedding them. I placed small pieces of angle iron between the stringer tops and the grid to accommodate for the two layers of biax that will go over the top.
4. I will trim the existing glass so it is more uniform, but I will glass into that after I bevel it.
5. Yes on the foam.

Just because you can does not mean you should.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote jbear Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: March-13-2011 at 8:59pm
Originally posted by Watauga Watauga wrote:

Well, after taking a break, I am back on task.


Well I guess...

If I am reading the dates of your posts correctly Arklie you were on break since July of 2009. Glad to see you back at it. Hope you weren't grinding all this time!
Keep the pictures coming.



john
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Watauga Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: March-13-2011 at 10:14pm
Thanks Woftam. I am going to be watching your progress closely as you proceed. I am sure I will have many questions.

Hi Jbear, Yes you are right. I had to take a break. I am a disaster responder and many times I am gone for long periods. Las year I was in Haiti a good part of the year and also involved in the Nashville Flood Response and the the two tornadoes that wrecked Yazoo City MS. I normally only serve in the US and Canada. Haiti was a irregular response for me and I am not at this point planning on Japan.

Really looking forward to getting the Nautique back in the water this year.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote jbear Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: March-14-2011 at 1:48am
Arklie: Disaster relief. Close to my heart. Do you do it fulltime? For an organization like the Red Cross? I work for a charitable org here in Florida called the Care Center. We have a group in Haiti right now. I got involved during 2004 when 3 hurricanes went thru here just weeks after Patti and I moved from Ohio. I went with a group to Mississippi after Katrina. Japan is going to be something. Been watching the news videos and it is kinda hard to believe. Worst problem looks like it is gonna be the nuke plants.


john
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Watauga Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: March-14-2011 at 1:59am
Hi John,
Yes, full time plus. I serve as the director of disaster response for the Presbyterian Church in America PCA / Mission to North America. I have not heard of Care Center. We finally finished our Katrina Mississippi response last year, but we are still going strong in NOLA. Still three worksites operating; Uptown, 8th Ward and 9th Ward. We are planning to continue there for another 5 years.

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Watauga Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: April-04-2011 at 4:23pm
Not a great progress report other than the fabrication of my stabilization stands. Almost finished. Next step is to level the boat, place the stands under and in the correct positions, then drill the stands for the carriage bolt that captures the adjustable pad that actually contacts the hull. Will probably adhere some rubber on the surface of the pad to make it more non-slip and to better protect the hull in advance of placing them in position.

Here is a question. How is the best way to determine if the hull is in the right position and has enough pressure at the points of contact? I assume it is at best a judgement call? The boat is sitting on the trailer rather nicely, but when weight is added (read, me and the addition of the strings and fiberglass, tools, etc.) it does collapse the springs to a certain extent. Therefore, it is apparent that the amount of pressure on the stands will increase as the work progresses. Does that matter? I have not seen anyone really support the trailer before. I noticed that one forum poster placed his boat on a cradle totally off the trailer. Seems like a better option than working on a trailer, but I don't have that option.

Any advice greatly appreciated.



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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote gun-driver Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: April-06-2011 at 12:06am
When I did my '85 I left it on the trailer, blocked the trailer up off the wheels with blocks.
Then supported the boat front and rear and used shims down along the length of the bunks to level and support the hull. I felt that offered more support of the boat instead of just four points.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Watauga Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: April-06-2011 at 3:07pm
Thanks, gun-driver.
I think I will simply block up the trailer frame to prevent the crunching down of the trailer as weight is added, along with using the four jack stands I just built. The idea being to prevent any weight gain from compressing the springs and thus changing the pressure on the four points being supported by the stands.

The stands are not really adjustable under load, so I guess the proper way to pre-load them could be accomplished by simply using the trailer nose jack to accomplish the leveling in the same way one would level a camper trailer, i.e, port/starboard and then stern/bow?

After I get the four stands set up correctly I guess I should simply crib up under the trailer and insert final shims to apply a good amount pressure between the cribbing and the bottom of the trailer frame.

I am traveling this weekend so I hope to have the boat cribbed up before I leave so that I can hit it hard next week.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Watauga Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: October-07-2013 at 11:10am
It's been a while since I have been able to work on the boat. I have almost finished cutting the stringers to shape, just a little more work and I will be ready to bed them in. I have the secondary stringers almost ready to go as well.

While doing the trial fit I am not confident that the original stringers were not centered in the hull. They were off to one side about 1/4 inch. Also, the shaft log, the rudder. the ski pole socket, and the center keel were not even close to being "dead on". They are all off to the port or starboard. The shaft log is off center of the hull to one side and the rudder is off to the other side.

Here are a few questions for those who have done a complete rebuild that have experienced this.
1- How important is it to center the stringers exactly perfect? This boat has an aluminum cradle that the engine is mounted on. How much forgiveness in the motor mounts can I expect?
2-Is re-glassing the new stringers in the exact position more important than centering them in the hull?
3-I am planning to round off the top edges of the stringers with a router bit. I assume this is worth the trouble?
4-Has anyone used the Jamestown "Thixo" thickened epoxy to bed the stringers in. Has anyone actually used this product or the 3M equivalent? Would you recommend it? What were your experiences?




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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Watauga Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: October-07-2013 at 11:40am
And another question.

Before I bed in the stringers I still need to do some final work on them. One of the things I need to do is to to add the forward leg to the starboard stringer that supports the so called air box.

I plan on biscuit-joining the leg to the front of the stringer. Obviously the leg was not glassed on the original, but I am planning to do so on the new one.

Here is my question: How did CC fabricate the original air box? The original had no internal structure in it except for the stringer leg. Did they pre fabricate the box in a mold then glass it in? Or was it built in place?

For those who have rebuilt the air box on this model boat--how did you do it?






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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 29EHV8 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: October-29-2013 at 4:43pm
Great progress your making! How is it coming along now?
-Shiny

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Watauga Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: October-29-2013 at 5:28pm
Hi 29EHV8,
Some progress. I pulled the main stringers back out so that I could biscuit join, screw and gorilla glue the foot rest support/extension to the right side main stringer. In the accompanying pictures the stringer extension is too long. I planned it that way so that I would make sure I had enought height. I cut it to the correct length/height after a few trial fits.

As you can see in the picture, I have a front and back temporary spacer to hold the stringers at the correct distance apart and vertical.

Next Step is to route the top edges of the mains before I bed them in. I still need to cut the large half circle drain hole in each stringer as well. I think I may glass the drain holes before I bed the stringers in to reduce some of the head ache that comes with trying to do them later on. Probably best to glass the bottom of the stringers where they meet the stern as well, i.e., the mitered last few inches of the stringer.





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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 29EHV8 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: October-29-2013 at 5:54pm
Again, nice work! your getting there eh...
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