Engine Turns Over Without Start |
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rmm025
Senior Member Joined: July-20-2009 Location: West Monroe, LA Status: Offline Points: 148 |
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Posted: July-27-2009 at 11:15pm |
Ok guys, here again. I have an 86 2001, had WOT issues before, got those taken care of with a firing order issue. Fixed the firing order and the boat ran great for about 10-15 min. As the engine warmed up, it started sputtering and missing at high rpms, I could pull back to 2000 and run fine. Headed back to the ramp at 2000, idled a while and the engine cooled off. Boat ran great for a min or so and then it started sputtering again at high rpms. Came back to idle and tooled around for a few and then it just died. Got pulled to the ramp and came home. Checked for spark no visual in the plug wires, then no visual with the coil wire at about 1/4" from the thermostat housing. Figured the coil was bad since I bought it right after a EI conversion with "oh no" petronix. Replaced the coil with a 12v mallory coil, still no spark with the coil at 1/4" or so from thermostat housing. Where else should I look????? By the way, engine turns over fine, just no spark.
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8122pbrainard
Grand Poobah Joined: September-14-2006 Location: Three Lakes Wi. Status: Offline Points: 41040 |
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Well if it was my boat, I'd put the point set back in!! Ether that or replace the entire distributor with a EI. My Tique came with a EI conversion and I'm afraid to even look under the cap to see what brand it is. So far it's still running but I do have my fingers crossed!!
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TRBenj
Grand Poobah Joined: June-29-2005 Location: NWCT Status: Offline Points: 21108 |
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Me too. 2 of my friends tried the Pertronix, and both had similar high end issues. One went back to points, the other swapped to the Prestolite kit- both solved the issues. |
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rmm025
Senior Member Joined: July-20-2009 Location: West Monroe, LA Status: Offline Points: 148 |
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I agree, but right now I can't get spark from the coil, I am getting a multimeter today and start working my way back from the coil. Any suggestions on what else to look for?
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TRBenj
Grand Poobah Joined: June-29-2005 Location: NWCT Status: Offline Points: 21108 |
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Do you have voltage (either 12V if the resistor is bypassed or ~9V if its still in line) to the positive terminal on the coil? If so, then you either have a bad coil or a bad ignition module. Im betting on the Pertronix! |
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rmm025
Senior Member Joined: July-20-2009 Location: West Monroe, LA Status: Offline Points: 148 |
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No heat to the coil. I got 12.5V to the circuit breaker, and 12.5V to the starter coil. When I attached my + & - leads to the ignition coil, 0V. I am assuming there is a short in the wiring from my circuit breaker to my coil. Hopefully thats what I will find when I untape all of my wires. Previous owner electrical taped everything together, looks nice, but hard to troubleshoot.
Another question, I checked the resistance on my new coil, 1.6ohms. Old coil is all over the place. I am assuming that means that the old coil is the original with no internal resistance???? I am mechanically inclined but electrically stupid. |
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TRBenj
Grand Poobah Joined: June-29-2005 Location: NWCT Status: Offline Points: 21108 |
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So you put your positive DMM lead on the coil "+". Where did you put your negative DMM lead? If you put it on the coil "-" that was not correct- it needs to go to a good ground (a clean bolt on the engine). The coil "-" is not a ground, its the trigger signal from the distributor. If your module never tells the coil to fire (equivalent to points being closed) then you will see 12V or close to it on the coil "-" at all times as well. That makes for a zero voltage difference between coil "+" and "-", so Im still betting on a busted module! |
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rmm025
Senior Member Joined: July-20-2009 Location: West Monroe, LA Status: Offline Points: 148 |
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That makes sense. Like I said earlier, electrically stupid. I am learning as I go as to how the iginiton system actually works. I assumed that if the coil wasn't firing, it had to be something before the coil to cause that. And yes, I put my leads to both sides of the coil, I didn't ground to the block. Thanks for all the help.
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rmm025
Senior Member Joined: July-20-2009 Location: West Monroe, LA Status: Offline Points: 148 |
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What all do I need to convert back to points?
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TRBenj
Grand Poobah Joined: June-29-2005 Location: NWCT Status: Offline Points: 21108 |
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If you still have the points baseplate, all you need are points and a condensor for a Prestolite distributor. You should be able to get them from NAPA for less than $20.
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rmm025
Senior Member Joined: July-20-2009 Location: West Monroe, LA Status: Offline Points: 148 |
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I tested again tonight. I have 12V on the positive side of the coil. Pulled EI module, and still have 12V, but when I turn the engine over, no spark from the coil to the block. Should I be able to see spark from the coil with no EI module attached? Does anyone know what EI conversion kit this is???
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SNobsessed
Grand Poobah Joined: October-21-2007 Location: IA Status: Offline Points: 7102 |
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I think that is a Prestolite. Check the SkiDim web site, they will have a picture.
You can check the coil by grounding out the (-) terminal of the coil & then ungrounding it (like turning a switch on & off - which is all the points do). If you coil is good, you will get a spark when you unground. |
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“Beer is proof that God loves us and wants us to be happy.”
Ben Franklin |
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rmm025
Senior Member Joined: July-20-2009 Location: West Monroe, LA Status: Offline Points: 148 |
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Is there any way to test this module before I purchase something eles?
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rmm025
Senior Member Joined: July-20-2009 Location: West Monroe, LA Status: Offline Points: 148 |
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Also, I am starting to wonder if I got a brand new coil that doesn't work. EI module not connected. I leave the hot wire connected to the + side of the coil. Pull the ground wire off while cranking and still no spark. + side of coil showing 12v before I crank.
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SNobsessed
Grand Poobah Joined: October-21-2007 Location: IA Status: Offline Points: 7102 |
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Rmm - The - side of coil has to be grounded, then ungrounded. The coils sparks when the electrical current going thru the coil is interrupted. Just pulling it off the terminal will not break the circuit if the module was bad, because there was no current flowing in the 1st place.
PS, it looks like you already removed the module, so this advice is probably too late - the air gap between the star wheel (called the reluctor)& the pickup coil is supposed to be .010 inch. If that had shifted, it could be the problem. |
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“Beer is proof that God loves us and wants us to be happy.”
Ben Franklin |
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rmm025
Senior Member Joined: July-20-2009 Location: West Monroe, LA Status: Offline Points: 148 |
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Current Situation: Module has to be gone, I have the prestolite kit installed. I don't have anything but the prestolite kit. What are my options for repair? Should I go with another prestolite kit from ski dim, get the mallory e-spark, or go with a new distributor? My budget is getting very thin, and so is my wife's paitence with a new boat that won't run.
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Mrs.Buffalo
Newbie Joined: April-02-2009 Location: United States Status: Offline Points: 10 |
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Sorry, but I have to LOL. This is why my tag line says "Poobie's wife not a newbie", just break her in easy.
In the long run it is sooooooooo nice/worth it to be able to walk down to the dock, turn the key and not have to worry "what's gonna/might happen". It's all worth the endurance.... and I didn't even have to shoot him. Have her call me if she's at her total wits end. Keith, when do we get our honorary "Poobie's Wife" status? Amy |
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Poobah/Poobie's wife not a newbie.
Boating wives are made from fabric tougher than Kevlar, Carbon Fiber or Fiberglass! |
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SNobsessed
Grand Poobah Joined: October-21-2007 Location: IA Status: Offline Points: 7102 |
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Call Correct Parts (See ad in links section) - They will help you decide if it is worth putting money in your old dizzy. The nice thing about a Mallory is that you can easily customize the advance curve - I did some of this & could tell a difference in performance.
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“Beer is proof that God loves us and wants us to be happy.”
Ben Franklin |
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Luchog
Grand Poobah Joined: April-17-2007 Location: Argentina Status: Offline Points: 2135 |
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can you explain me more about this? I've been considering getting a whole new dizzy lately or having mine rebuild here and see if We could improve the advance curve. |
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SNobsessed
Grand Poobah Joined: October-21-2007 Location: IA Status: Offline Points: 7102 |
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Luciano - The original Prestolite dizzy had an advance curve that would top out at 28 degrees, & not until 4000 RPM (at least mine was that bad).
The 351W will run better with a more agressive advance curve. I had my dizzy recurved to the recommendation of these gearheads - 34 degrees @ 3000 RPM. I sent my (new but obsolete) Prestolite to a shop to do this. I wouldn't waste money on an old prestolite, however, because the weight pivots are probably worn out & the mechanism will not operate smoothly. The Mallory has the springs on top so they are easy to change. The sell a kit with color coded springs so you have some calibration. Check out their website when you get bored! |
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“Beer is proof that God loves us and wants us to be happy.”
Ben Franklin |
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rmm025
Senior Member Joined: July-20-2009 Location: West Monroe, LA Status: Offline Points: 148 |
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I would like to thank everyone that has helped me. Especially Boat Dr. Although he didn't pipe in, he sent me an older prestolite ei dizzy and helped me with some wiring issues. The boat cranks and idles fine, looks like I will hit the water tomorrow to see how she really does.
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