New Floor

Gary, if there was a 302 in there, you will run into ex. manifold clearance issues.There is a lot of width added to the 351,the motor will fit but the hood won't close.
A simple search will bring up all the info you need,my floor job is under:
Hi Teks installed

BuffaloBFN wrote: This guy and hasbeen cleaned out their hull completly without pancaking issues.

In case you didnt realize it, thats Pete Brainard's Tique. The previous owner redid the stringers.

Pete, did you realize that your Tique is still listed in the diaries under the former owner? Might be cool to check out if you havent seen it:

Miss Merie II

That's the guy I bought the 1966 brochure from on ebay that I put on the site.

I didn't realize that was now Pete's Tique, but I have seen the picture several times. The thing about that pic that gets my attention is that the floor and strigers seem to be on the same plane. This is not the case with my boat.

I am new and I am replacing my stringers in my 68 mustang16. I am at a loss for how to get back to the current subject that I post in. I have a 350 chevy in mine and i know you guys are purists, so I apologize in advance. Yes I did raise my engine cover and have married at least 6 different marine adaptations in the motor compartment. from the exhaust manifolds to the water pump etc. thank god for google.

I have dug out all rotted wood and kept my fiberglass gunnels for the main spar. I have cut new stringers to fit into the new gunnels. About 5 feet total on both sides. The rest of the stringers were drill tested and dried out for about 4 weeks with a covered hull and heater. I then used cepes to attach to the dried wood. about 4 quarts were poored into the drilled holes until it surfaced and the old stringers were saturated. I now am going to use the same cepes with fine sawdust put into the open gunnels and let it ooz out the top and then cover with resin and glass.

Now that I have seen some of these pics of totally new sub structure, amazing work by the way. should I do that and take all the structure out and replace the whole thing?

I have a plan but not confident when I see you experts in this forum. I want to get some pics so I can use you guys to help me!

can someone e-mail me and tell me how I can return to the same forum for follow up and help without searching for where my post is.

thanks folks.

gary    luckydog2023@gmail.com

Gary, I have always recommended the replacement of all the wood when doing a stringer job. I don't feel it is really that much more work to completely go down to the bare hull. In fact, I feel less to just rip and cut rather than carefully cut, dig, drill and pour. Next, I would not want to chance the bond between the old and new wood. Completely dry? Did you use a moisture meter? You will not seal the bottom side of the old wood against the hull with epoxy. Moisture will get through the old polyester - it is hygroscopic and epoxy isn't. I have seen lots of "rot doctor" patches on wood boats. Looks good for awhile until the wood next to the "rot doctor" rots!

Yes, I too am curious like Chris if you are keeping the boat. Restoration? Post some pictures.

Welcome to CCfan. I hope you find all the info you are looking for and if not, just ask.

Gary, welcome aboard! FWIW, I haven't found a dry spot in the pumpkin patch. Everything I've opened up has a puddle under it. My point I guess is be suspicious!

The hull is without stringers and I have a bulge. I have bitten the head off the chicken so I am in for the long haul. The whole stringer assembly is comming out. the pics are close behind. thanks for the help and I just needed the nudge of doubt to do this the hard way. THANKS ALOT GUYS!!!!

Gary