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Starting Issues -- Need ignition conversion kit?

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dmoney View Drop Down
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    Posted: August-31-2009 at 7:20pm
I have a 1992 Ski Nautique with a 351 Ford, about 830 hrs. Having trouble starting the boat for some time, maybe a year or so, but haven't used it much (maybe 15-20 times in last 1.5 years). Took boat in to dealer, and they "load" tested the battery, said it was fine. Tested the Alternator -- fine, with 14+ volts. Ssid I needed a new starter. Got it replaced, they told me it started right up for them. Take it to the water, didn't start. The engine is turning over, but sounds slow, and breaks up a little (same as before, but a slightly different pitch, like higher or something). They tell me the problem is with the CDI unit, and that I need some conversion kit...can anyone explain what is going on, or has experienced this?
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JoeinNY View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote JoeinNY Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: August-31-2009 at 7:30pm
Do you have a pro tec throttle body efi engine?
1983 Ski Nautique 2001
1967 Mustang 302 "Decoy"
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dmoney View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote dmoney Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: August-31-2009 at 7:37pm
I don't know. It's certainly not EFI. It is a carburated engine, PCM
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote kapla Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: August-31-2009 at 8:42pm
Joe that boat is carbed and it came standard with the protec ignition system, the same I have on my 92...plug wires actually come from the back from the coil pack unit...The problem with the protec if its toasted it will not work at all and there is no replacement, part is no longer available, you need to get a used unit or yed retrofit it igntion with a conventional dizzy and coil unit as the dealer told you..that conversion sells for around $450-500 in the regular marine parts market....
Anyway did you checked the for spark?
This system are prone to sudden death, and not intermitent, if they go bad , you need a replacement.
check also all the conections, and I would also take a look at the starter relay that goes on the mounting plate were the coil pack unit is mounted....if it gets hot while cranking it maybe be a sign of a bad connection or something like that...
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote boat dr Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: September-01-2009 at 12:26am
Call Karen at CorrectCraftParts,she can ship tommorrow. Complete conversion kit,just plug and play .Dizzy, coil and all needed parts.1-299-8547
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote JoeinNY Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: September-01-2009 at 12:33am
What's that number Billy I think your missing a few. I need a few things myself so I will have to use the phone not my strongsuit.
1983 Ski Nautique 2001
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote kapla Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: September-01-2009 at 1:09pm
dmoney, btw It looks like the port manifold its leaking some water, might want to order new gaskets....
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote dmoney Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: September-01-2009 at 6:33pm
Well, I talked to my former mechanic who worked on the boat while we had our cottage. Told him about the symptoms. How it started reallly hard cold, but started ok when warmed up. Told him it got to the point that i needed to jump pack it to get it to start. Again, when warm, started right up. He told me we had this same problem 3 or 4 years ago with intermittent spark, and he did a bunch of searching on the ignition system. How we solved the problem? New battery with 800/1000 amp. How did I solve this problem? New battery. Started right up this morning at the lake.

Not happy about the dealer who put in a new starter for $400 and told me i needed this upgrade to the CDI box for $1000, when a $100 battery fixed it.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote kapla Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: September-01-2009 at 7:05pm
Would have been worst if they put the $1000 unit and still the boat wouldn´t start right..LOL...

<a href="">1992 ski nautique
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote anthonylizardi Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: September-01-2009 at 7:15pm
Originally posted by boat dr boat dr wrote:

Call Karen at CorrectCraftParts,she can ship tommorrow. Complete conversion kit,just plug and play .Dizzy, coil and all needed parts.1-299-8547


Karen's number is 318-299-8547.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote dmoney Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: September-01-2009 at 8:07pm
no kidding! glad it's working!
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote dmoney Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: September-11-2009 at 2:07pm
Well...it is NOT FIXED. Problem still exists.

Put the new battery in last Monday, boat started right up. Took it out two days later, started right up. Took it out one week later (last night) and it was cranking slowly again. It finally did start, and once it did, the engine ran great.

So I had a new starter installed; then a new battery...any ideas?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote kapla Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: September-11-2009 at 2:27pm
well start looking with a tester for some power drain.... what about the starter selenoid did you checked it? Check the cables that are hooked to it.
Maybe your alternator is not charging the battery..get the tester and start from there....
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote dmoney Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: September-11-2009 at 3:12pm
they checked the alternator and apparently that is fine.

Is the starter solenoid seperate from a new starter?

How do I figure out if something is draining the battery? Clearly my old battery didn't have the amps to start the boat (a jump box git it started every time), and the new one did (twice). So is it safe to say that this new battery has now lost some of the amps needed to get it to crank? How do you keep the amps up?

Am I safe to assume that the CDI or points are not the issue? As far as I can figure out, the CDI is not a cranking issue.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote kapla Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: September-11-2009 at 3:22pm
the starter selenoind its located on the back of the engine in the same bracket of the protec ign unit.
As for the the power leak, if you have the tester start with the reading with all equipment switches of then start turning on one by one and any difference in the readings will tell you were to look...or something like that..someone with more knoledge on the electrics can explain it better than me...
For what you describe I would say your ign is not the problem....but is the heavy only on cold or once the engine is warm and if yu stop and start it back, will it crack fine or heavy?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote dmoney Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: September-11-2009 at 3:39pm
problem is only when cold. starts right up when warm.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 8122pbrainard Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: September-11-2009 at 5:22pm
If the slow crank is after it sits for awhile then yes you should be checking for a parasitic load. You'll need a volt/ohm/amp meter. These are about $25 and are very handy to have arount the boat, house and car. They will come with instructions for the basic tests.

For the parasitic load, one of the battery cables is disconnected and then the meter is put in series between the cable and the battery. You will then read if any current is flowing while the boat sits. Thurning off 1 circuit breaker (or removing a fuse) at one time will then tell you what's using the power.

BTW, a large amp hour battery isn't the best for a boat. To get the amps out of it, support for the plates is sacrificed for larger plates. It the high vibration/high shock loading of a boat this can cause the battery to fail. Get only what you need - around a 750 amp. Also, make sure it's a "starting" and not a "deep cycle".


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Keep it original, Pete
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote kapla Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: September-11-2009 at 5:34pm
Say you have a battery kill switch for diconnection when boat not in use? I have it to avoid this issues As my stereo connections are unreliable (i did them!!)LOL. If you have a stereo with amplifiers, If they are not off they can really drain the battery real quick!!!

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote dmoney Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: September-24-2009 at 7:41pm
problem solved. unhook the cables when done, no drain of amp from battery.

Thanks!
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote WakeSlayer Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: September-24-2009 at 8:28pm
Dmoney

That is a workaround and most definitely not fixed. I would either do like Pete said and track down the problem load, and get a kill switch like Sebastian said.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote gun-driver Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: September-25-2009 at 11:25pm
If I don't turn off my ignition breaker when done, overnight the clock on my radio will drain the battery just enough that I will have to use a jumper box. Once it runs for a couple of minutes the alternator charges it enough that it will start all the time.

Could it be something like that on your boat.
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