Change oil in the Spring or Fall?

Does it really matter when you change your oil? My dad always changed the oil just before winterizing so I have always followed suit. I hear of others waiting until spring to change just to make sure there isn't any condensation. So now this year, I am thinking of waiting until spring time to change the oil! Any thoughts?

I thought the worry was the acidity of dirty oil, or something like that.

This topic was hashed out to a certain degree recently in this thread...
(it comes up further down in the thread)

Winterization Anomolies

I think the general consensus is fog your engine, get the old oil and all the contaminants out, new oil in and put her to bed.

vrod02 wrote: Doesn't matter. Fog your engines!

Fogging is something I do, but not everyone does. It does matter when you change your oil. Like I said in the other thread, its commonly agreed upon that it should be changed at the end of the season so that the block doesnt sit all winter with the old, acidic oil in it.

I took the drain hose off an old Ford engine and drained it out through the oil pan plug and got about an ounce of water.

I change in the fall, but does it really matter? The oil drains into the oil pan and just sits there, and how long does it take for oil to get acidic?

An old boat mechanic told me the reason why it is recommended to change in the fall is because most people won't do it in the spring because they're in too much of a hurry to get their boat in the water.

I get a little water when I begin to drain..... but the water is clear, not sludgy so I always figure it is from the outside of the hose and the edges of the bilge drain........ never anything to fret over since the oil is always great lookin.

With that little run time, I wouldnt worry about it Bruce. Sometimes I fog before changing the oil, sometimes I do a quick restart afterwards and fog it then. I dont think it matters much.

After I change my oil, I probably only run my boat for another 5 to 10 minutes while I am fogging it out.

TRBenj wrote: With that little run time, I wouldnt worry about it Bruce. Sometimes I fog before changing the oil, sometimes I do a quick restart afterwards and fog it then. I dont think it matters much.

Changing the oil to get the acid out really does not mean anything unless you run it for a few minutes after the oil change. There is still old acidic oil in the bearings, even after you change it. Running it with the new oil is the only way to flush the system.

Mine has always been changed twice a year. Once just before winterization and the other time, usually in July. With 1600+ hours on it and 115-125 compression cold this is a pretty good indicator. Still does not burn enough oil to be noticeable.

I always get water in the oil when I drain it because it leaks from the bilge into the oil container through wicking action along the drain hose.

Tim

Now that's thinking with your dipstick Jimmy!

SNobsessed,
What acid neutralizer additive do you mean. It will have to soak-up water(hydroscopic quilities) methanol or toluene will get "used up" when it soaks up all the water it can hold. Any additive hurts lubricity, anti-foaming, detergent what ever. They do what they do but don't help lubrication.
With spectroscopic analysis we are able to detect 24 elements @ 1/10 part per million (PPM) the oils with zinc have over 1000 ppm Zn(Mil-PRF-2104 oils).
The best oils are pure petroleum straight grade 30/40/50 wt. for severe duty, zinc adds high pressure protection for the cam/lifters/spring pressure and diesels. 5w-10w-15w adds cold start protection by thinning the oil at low temps BUT the straight grade oil is up to 5 times "sticky er" so they work better. I understand multi viscosity oils have there place and I use them but with proper warm up and oil pressure straight grades are the BEST in piston engines. Have you ever "FELT" a fuel(Nitromethane) car run ? Police cars, fire trucks ect ... all use straight grade oil.
When I "found" my cracked block (a LOT water in the oil)I saved a sample to analyze. It was a tan/cream color. I tried to spin it down in a centrifuge but it would'nt seperate. Looking at it under magnification it was a fine "foam". Now that it's sat on my desk for more then a year it's 3 seperate parts creamy color foam on top the middle is a dark tan foam and the bottom is PURE oil. I think that's why ya see a little water in the oil drain, it seperates out.

Andy - I certainly don't want to start another pee'in contest like I did 2 years ago!

This is the oil I started using this year, it is comparable to VR1, but locally mixed. Not trying to sell anyone on this brand.

This is where I got the idea that oil has a acid neutralizer, maybe I got it wrong:

Andy, what's your opion on filters?

Thanks,I payed an arm and a leg for this motor option and I use it mostly for footing so it gets worked hard. I just want to take the best care of it. I've seen wix before, but I'll look around for the others.

I fill it up, with Sta-bil added to the gas. Supposedly this reduces condensation.