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73 Skier Restoration

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Keeganino View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Keeganino Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: April-27-2010 at 3:09pm
True! They are hidden for the most part, and I am reinforcing and through bolting all of the brackets. Wonder how hard those sharpie lines will be to sand out. I am a bit impulsive.
"working on these old boats may not be cost effective but as it shows its what it brings into your life that matters" -Roger

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 8122pbrainard Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: April-27-2010 at 3:21pm
Keegan,
Get the small kit and see how good you are at color matching. Do it in sunlight. It's the hard part of gel repair. Then only do the cracks you can see above the platform.


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77 Tique

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Keeganino Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: April-27-2010 at 5:52pm
Talked to my mechanic today. Had to change my pants when I got the bill.
Gaskets replaced- Exhaust, Intake, Valve Cover, Carb, Oil Pan, Rear main Seal, Timing cover, Oil Pump, and Fuel Pump. Was also painted.


"working on these old boats may not be cost effective but as it shows its what it brings into your life that matters" -Roger

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Keeganino Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: April-27-2010 at 11:36pm
Had perfect 65 degree weather to get out there and grind the hull. I got the port stringers out yesterday and ground down the build up today. Tomorrow I hope to bevel the main and get it bedded. Then build the port secondary, and I am onto glassing! My seats should be done soon so it is all up to me to get it done!


"working on these old boats may not be cost effective but as it shows its what it brings into your life that matters" -Roger

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote TRBenj Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: April-28-2010 at 9:45am
Keegan, its a little late for the starboard side now, but I think you would find it much easier to glass the mains in before installing the secondaries. Might be something to try on your port side though.

The stringers themselves look excellent!
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Okie Boarder Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: April-28-2010 at 1:13pm
That engine looks nice. I wish I could have afforded to do some work on my engine. Instead it remains on my wish list.

You're coming along nicely. Are you shooting for being on the water this season?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Keeganino Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: April-28-2010 at 1:40pm
Thanks guys!

Tim- I bet you are right. I may glass the port main before installing the secondary. Anything to make things easier and hopefully faster.

Okie- I have been shooting for the beginning of June. I hope to be done by the middle of June now, but things are moving a lot faster now that I have a little experience. My port stringers are already cut and ready, so its all a matter of how fast I can glass it and get the floor in. The seats will be ready before I am and all I have to do engine-wise is clean and paint the velvet drive. My goal for the week was to get the hull ready for the port stringers and I am ahead of schedule on that. Today I am going to bed the platform, rudder and exhaust reinforcements, and hopefully bevel and cpes the port main so I can bed it tomorrow.

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Keeganino Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: April-30-2010 at 1:07pm
Originally posted by 8122pbrainard 8122pbrainard wrote:

Keegan,
Get the small kit and see how good you are at color matching. Do it in sunlight. It's the hard part of gel repair. Then only do the cracks you can see above the platform.


That sounds like the right thing to do to me. I am color blind and mixing that red to look like the old red is not going to be my forte. I will have to get one of my graphic designer or painter friends to help me with that one. Most of the cracks are either below the water line or underneath the brackets.

Finished beveling and CPESing the port main last night and have perfect weather to bed it today. I am getting excited to start glassing, and wonder how long that part is going to take. The engine is ready, seats are 2 weeks away and I am starting to look ahead to ordering the exhaust hose. Is there anywhere cheaper than skidim on those? $16.50 a foot! I am also looking to replace all the water intake hoses and plug wires. The final order list is getting expensive fast.
"working on these old boats may not be cost effective but as it shows its what it brings into your life that matters" -Roger

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 8122pbrainard Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: April-30-2010 at 1:43pm
Whoever tints the gel should know that a small amount of color goes real far especially when mixing small batches. I use the end of a tootpick to pick up and add the color.

Everyone seems to gravitate towards Skidim, Yes there are items they have that other firms don't seem to carry but in the case of exhaust hose there are plenty of sources. Do some on line shopping. And yes, Skidim no longer supports CCfan. BTW, the 16.50 it about the normal price. It's not cheap!!!


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote WakeSlayer Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: April-30-2010 at 1:59pm
Originally posted by Keeganino Keeganino wrote:

The final order list is getting expensive fast.


It does that. There are so many things on the "while I am in there" list that it will kill you.

I think you should stick to the Must Do stuff, and get her back on the water. There is another season for working on the boat coming in just a few short months.

Your stringer work looks really good. Time to put the head down and give it horns.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Okie Boarder Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: April-30-2010 at 2:21pm
I've been running into the same problem. I've been looking at it now the same as Mike suggests. If I can easily access it and it doesn't HAVE to be replaced right now, I'm putting it on the list for later.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Keeganino Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May-02-2010 at 1:02pm
All good advice and the same conclusion I am coming to. For now I am focused solely on seaworthiness. Today I start my first round of actual glassing. Since Friday I have bed all of the transom supports, and finished all the the remaining fillets between soccer games and cook outs. Today I am excited to start putting down some glass tape! I have been waiting for this day since January when I decided to take this project on. So without further delay- Here I go!
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote WakeSlayer Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May-02-2010 at 1:11pm
Glass your ass off!!
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Okie Boarder Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May-02-2010 at 9:29pm
Good for you man! There are definitely some parts of these projects you look forward to and really get to enjoy doing. I thought glassing was pretty enjoyable myself.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote homebuiltburner Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May-03-2010 at 2:04pm
Progress looks great. I've been following your project. What did you use when you bedded your stringers?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Keeganino Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May-03-2010 at 4:18pm
Originally posted by homebuiltburner homebuiltburner wrote:

Progress looks great. I've been following your project. What did you use when you bedded your stringers?


To bed the stringers I used epoxy thickened with cabosil, then put as much weight on them as I could. You know you have enough under there when it oozes out the sides under the weight. I made my fillets out of the same thing and used a freezer bag with the corner cut out to pipe it along the edge. Then used the rounded edge of a spreader to get the nice smooth curve.

I almost got 2 layers of 2 inch all the way around yesterday. When I stopped working at 3 oclock it was so hot out and I was working in the direct sun that the epoxy started setting up to fast to lay it down well. I am going to go ahead and lay the other secondary in. It did not slow me down any and I liked being able to just keep going. When I get to the 12 inch biaxial I can see how it might be different, but for now it works out well. Rain here for the next 2 days so I am going to try and tidy up some of the mess I have made so far on my porch.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Keeganino Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May-03-2010 at 5:28pm
Everything but the rudder mount reinforcement
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Keeganino Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May-07-2010 at 1:44pm
Question of the day- The bell housing on the tranny is aluminum right? You can see in this picture that it did not hold the old paint very well. Is there a paint that will work on aluminum? I am using Rustoleum enamel engine paint for the steel. Would there be any drawback to just sanding all the paint off and leaving it aluminum colored or will it corode? What do you guys recommend?

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 8122pbrainard Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May-07-2010 at 2:47pm
Keegan,
Aluminum and galvanized can be problems to paint. There are acid etching primers designed to do the adhesion job but you'd end up having to get at least a quart via a auto or specialty paint supply. What I have done on small to medium jobs is acid etch the parts. I always have a pint of soldering liquid flux. It's a acid and does a real nice job of prepping the aluminum or galvanized. You want to do it quick, get it rinsed off with water, dried and primed asap. I suggest using a primer as well. Duplicolor does make a engine primer. I just reported the results of using it in my thread on the Flexifour rebuild. Big difference in coverage on the finish coat.

BTW, the flux being a acid, I'm sure we'll hear all about that PPE you've got!!


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Keeganino Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May-07-2010 at 4:16pm
Originally posted by 8122pbrainard 8122pbrainard wrote:



BTW, the flux being a acid, I'm sure we'll hear all about that PPE you've got!!


PPE for acid? Just stay away from the brown acid and you will be fine!
"working on these old boats may not be cost effective but as it shows its what it brings into your life that matters" -Roger

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Keeganino Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May-07-2010 at 4:52pm
Is this the right stuff Pete? How much will I need? The smallest size is 2oz.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Keeganino Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May-07-2010 at 5:30pm
Here is the duplicolor. Might go this route? Any comments or suggestions?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote FrankT Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May-07-2010 at 9:21pm
This is what I am using. Make sure you use it outdoors.

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/VHT-SP306/

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 8122pbrainard Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May-07-2010 at 10:21pm
Keegan,
Go with the Duplicolor self etch primer but not for the engine block itself. There you want the engine primer due to the higher heat.


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Keeganino Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May-08-2010 at 2:16pm
Thanks again Pete. Your engine looks great and you did it so fast!

Here is my problem of the day. My pylon! I bought some rustoleum rust restorer to treat the rusted mount plate that bolts to the underside of the floor. While I was degreasing it I noticed that the pylon leans to one side- left. I know a lot of them lean towards the bow slightly and mine does too. But it should not be leaning to the left. Can the pylon be separated from the mount? Can I tap out the pins pictured below to get it out or adjust it? How does this assembly work? Also pictured below it the heavy pitting on the aluminum pylon that sat under the saturated wood line of the floor. Anything I can do to mitigate that?




Things are moving along well. I have wrapped 2 layers of 2 inch tape and 2 layers of 4 inch glass on everything but the port secondary which gets bedded tonight! Still prepping the tranny for painting and working on this janky looking pylon!
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 8122pbrainard Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May-08-2010 at 2:44pm
Keegan,
It's going to be a real big chore to get that pin out!!! Your pylon is straight correct? Since you what in straighten the pin (is it bent??) and need to get it out, I suggest chucking it up in a lathe and boring it out. Then you can install a new pin. The pin may need to be stepped allowing for a oversize bore in the aluminum.

Don't worry about the white rust at the bottom of the pylon. Just clean it up. CC used the cheap aluminum and didn't even have them anodized. It goes right along with the carbon steel lifting ring rod they used. That's a liability issue they were never smart enough to figure on!!!!


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Keeganino Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May-08-2010 at 5:55pm
I don't think the pin itself is bent, but the pylon leans left, like it goes through the mount bracket crooked. Is there a way to separate the pylon from the mounting bracket or are they welded together? If not mine are corroded together.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 8122pbrainard Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May-08-2010 at 6:01pm
Keegan,
Without me having to go way back into earlier posts, don't you have some kind of a home made bracket that was mounted between the stringers at the floor level? That's ether off or the cup glassed to the hull is off. Get some more pictures posted of the problem.


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Keeganino Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May-09-2010 at 2:40pm
I got it apart! The base plate is 18 inches wide and has a hole in the middle that I can now slide the pylon through freely. I have been soaking 3 in 1 oil into the sleeve and hoping they would finally loosen. Yesterday I used purple power and a nylon brush to degrease the area and then sprayed 3M high powered brake cleaner into the joint and gave it a few good whacks with a 4lb hammer and they came apart! The bottom of the plate was covered in oil from the bilge and was pretty clean, but the topside that had been against the wet wood is really corroded. Last night I scraped away all the loose rust and then painted it with rust reformer. I am going to paint it too for a few years of extra protection.
Here is the history of my pylon struggle in pictures.


COvered with dust but you can see how rotted out it is around the pylon base.


This entire area was a big problem.


This just about sums it up and was when I realized that there was no good, structurally sound wood left in this boat. How could I have felt good about towing my family around after finding this?


Here it is removed and upside down and a good view of the assembly.


Back in its place. The big pole is over the pylon. Helps the cover keep the boat dry right now, but is not going back in the way way it was before. PO had put PVC around the pylon and then wooden shims between the pvc and pylon in an attempt to get a snug fit. JANKY!!!! I will have to figure something out.


And I just needed to see this picture one more time. My baby's wake at sunset on Belews Creek. It won't be long till we are back at it!
"working on these old boats may not be cost effective but as it shows its what it brings into your life that matters" -Roger

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 8122pbrainard Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May-09-2010 at 4:03pm
Keegan,
Thanks for refreshing my memory!! OK, in 73 there's a good chance that the pylon at floor level was simply a hole through the beefed up floor (2x cross member under the floor). I don't think CC had started to put the square aluminum plate welded to the pylon and then bolted to the floor yet. The tilting of your pylon is due to the location of the pylon where it goes through the floor and the add on (it's not original) steel plate a PO bolted on the bottom side.


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