Forums
NautiqueParts.comNautiqueSkins.com - Correct Craft Upholstery and Part
  New Posts New Posts RSS Feed - 89 Correct Craft Trailer Repair
  FAQ FAQ  Forum Search   Register Register  Login Login

89 Correct Craft Trailer Repair

 Post Reply Post Reply   
Author
89Ski_Nautique View Drop Down
Senior Member
Senior Member
Avatar

Joined: May-26-2009
Location: Windermere, FL
Status: Offline
Points: 160
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 89Ski_Nautique Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Topic: 89 Correct Craft Trailer Repair
    Posted: January-31-2010 at 12:04am
Last summer I purchased a 1989 Ski Nautique boat andCorrect Craft trailer. The trailer needed much attention to return it to road worthy condition. I had the maintenance issues listed below and wanted to document the repair process to perhaps help the next CCFAN member that may be experiencing the same or similar problem(s).

1. The hydraulic brake system was not working.
    a. rusted master cylinder, rusted/damaged brake assemblies
    b. frozen/rusted brake assembly,
    c. old grease coating entire brake mechanism and hub assembly
2. The trailer jack not operational and the trailer jack wheel would come loose under load.
3. Clearance light bar not working.
4. Right Stop Tail Lights not working.
5. Intermittent stop lights and dim running light operation
6. Rotten running boards and decayed running board carpet.
7. Decayed carpet on the trailer bunks
8. Starboard side fender missing fender well splash guard.
9. Rusted trailer fenders and rusted running board flange mounts
10. Trailer tires although not worn to end of tread life, but the side walls were beginning to show sign of dry rot.
11. Although not critical, the decals and pinstripes were torn in few spots and have been over sprayed from a few spot repairs

Probably already known by most members on this site, I discovered you can purchase the entire Hydraulic Brake Assembly cheaper than if you separately purchased the wheel cylinders and bake assembly components. Also, I discovered you can purchase the entire actuator coupler assembly cheaper than rebuilding and painting a previously used actuator coupler.

Matching the original running board template; required the use of a 10 foot length plywood sheet which I had to special order from the lumber yard in order to get marine grade 3/4“ plywood sheets. Yes, admittedly the use of marine grade was most likely over engineering/overkill, exterior grade would probably would suffice. One (1) 10 foot sheet is enough to do both running boards, I overestimated and purchased two sheets consequently, there is another TBD project in my future. Admittedly, you could use the readily available 8 foot length plywood sheets with the running boards cut into two sections per side, however drilling new mounting holes on the running board mounting flange plates may be required.

Listed below is the part list and web site suppliers (as applicable) I used for our 1989 Correct Craft trailer repair. I recognize and concede there may be other places to find the same parts, perhaps even less expensive using different suppliers. These are provided as a reference guide on who I used for the trailer repair.

1 - Atwood Actuator Coupler, model 84132, bolt-on,
      Atwood Actuator
1- Dexter 12" x 2" Hydraulic Brake Assembly LH Free Backing,
      LH Free Backing
1- Dexter 12" x 2" Hydraulic Brake Assembly RH Free Backing,
      RH Free Backing
2 - Grease Seal 10-1,
      Grease Seal 10-1
2 - Spindle Washer - Tang Type for E-Z Lube,
      Spindle Washer
2 - Grease Cap Plug for E-Z Lube Grease Caps,
      Grease Caps
1 - Bearing Kit, LM67048/25580 Bearings, 10-10 Seal,
      Bearing Kit
Note Bearing kit was not used but listed as reference data.
1 - Trailer Identification Light Bar with Stainless Base
      Light Bar
Note: Exact replacement, mounts directly on the factory 16 -1/16" centers.
1 - Axle Grease; LubriMatic Marine Trailer Wheel Bearing Grease - 14 oz. Cartridge,
      Wheel Bearing Grease
1- Dutton Lanison Trailer Jack, Part Number: 22507,
      Trailer Jack
Note: Very good non-swivel replacement jack for the original factory supplied trailer jack.
1- CEPS Smiths Warm 2Qt Kit,
      CPES
1-package Monel Staples, T50 type, 5/16’
      Monel Staples
1 - Roll Marine Carpet, Cut pile light gray 6 Foot Wide by 20 Foot Length
      Marine Carpet
Note: This roll was enough to cover both running boards, both trailer bunks and both bow stops, also included free door to door shipping.

1 - Rust Bullet 1 Qt Can
      Rust Bullet
Note: I used the automotive formula since contains it more metal and is a bit thinner than the regular formula allowing for easier application if using a HVLP spray gun.
1- PPG Epoxy Primer and PPG Top Coat
Note: The use of epoxy primer in addition to the Rust Bullet primer admittedly may be considered overkill for the rust repair
1 – 10 ‘ x 4 ‘ sheet of marine grade plywood.
Note: You may need to special order 10 foot plywood sheet from your local lumber yard as I experienced.
1 Roll 1/8” White 3M reflective pin striping

I started with getting a set of new Goodyear Marathon tires installed. Next, I tackled the broken hydraulic brake system, the master cylinder was rusted and full of water, the cap was “Jerry Rigged” using electrical tape to tighten on to the coupler assembly and the actuator piston was not moving freely under load. Listed below is a photo of the new Attwood actuator coupler installed. To remove the stubborn brake line from the old at the master cylinder, I strongly recommend you soak the flare nut at least 1 day in advance and when ready to remove use an inline wrench and a heat gun, heating this connection really helped loosen the flare nut pipe fitting.



Then I inspected the hydraulic brake assembly and wheel bearings/hubs. This is a photo of the old hydraulic brake assembly both sides were equally as bad, rusted brake parts covered in a dried grease mixture.



Listed below is a photo of the new hydraulic brake assembly.



Cleaned up the spindle and the brake hub assembly, be sure to thoroughly inspect the bearings and the bearing races. Cleaned and repacked the bearings, replace worn/damaged and discolored bearings/ bearing races as necessary Installed new LH and RH hydraulic brake assembly. Take care not to crush the hydraulic brake line while loosening the top bolts. Be sure to torque the five (5) bolts on the brake assembly properly, again taking care not to crush the hydraulic brake line while tightening the top bolts.



Stripped, cleaned and painted the brake hub assemblies.



Be sure NOT to over tighten the hub assembly spindle nut, spin the hub assembly while carefully tightening the spindle nut only enough to remove the play. When installing the locking tang washer, loosen the spindle nut slightly if the locking tang washer does not align with the spindle nut. Bend the locking tab on tang washer onto the spindle nut. Before installing the grease caps I completed the reassembly with a few pumps of the grease gun to thoroughly lubricate and fill the EZ-Lube hub cavity. Installed the wheels, tighten the adjusters (star wheel) on the brake assembly so the brake shoes were dragging against the hub assembly slightly. Be sure not to over tighten the brakes, if you do you can always back off on the star wheel adjustment as needed.

Filled the master cylinder reservoir, bled the brakes starting with the port side wheel (farthest from the master cylinder) when complete (read that as no more air bubbles) proceeded to the starboard side wheel. For one person brake bleeding, the Mighty Vac kit seemed to work OK. Just remember to keep the master cylinder full, since the Atwood master cylinder reservoir is very small.

I selected the Dutton Lanison trailer jack, since, it appears to resemble the same fit and function of trailer jack shown in original brochure photos. Similar to the original setup , I opted for a fixed mount jack since it does not flex as much when compared to the swivel mount jacks. I do not have a trailer winch, so I mounted the trailer jack in the center of the A-frame as originally installed.



This jack was almost a direct replacement with no modifications; however, I needed grind down the left and right sides approximately 1/16” in order to make it fit properly in the taper as show in the photo. I spray painted using a rattle can clear coat to the trailer jack mounting flange for corrosion protection on the areas hit with the bench grinder.





Installed a new stainless steel clearance light bar and installed a separate ground wire connection. This model was an exact replacement designed to accommodate the existing 16” 1/16” mounting holes.



Installed a pair of new LED tail/stop lights and installed a separate ground wire connection.



I removed the trailer guides, the fenders and the old running boards. The running boards should be attached with 9 bolts per side in addition to the 4 fender mount bolts. Note: some of the bolts for attaching the running boards on my trailer were missing. I removed the old carpet, and was able to use the existing running board as a rough template. I cut new boards from the 10 foot marine grade plywood panel using a circular saw. Also, I used a 1” wood boring bit to drill out the rounded areas for the flange cutouts. I rounded the sharp edges using a belt sander w/80 grit on both sides of the new running boards shown below.



Prior to the new carpet install, I applied two coats of CPES to the new running boards. Be sure the wear protective gear such as eye protection, latex gloves and use a good respirator and allow time to cure between coats.



Spot welded a new splash guard to the starboard side trailer fender show here.



Cleaned the rusted areas of the trailer frame C-channel (mounting flanges, mounting holes, running board seep spots, etc…) using a 3M paint stripper abrasive wheel. Cleaned the former rusted spots using PPG GX320 and applied Rust Bullet to the cleaned metal. Discovered PPG DX320 is your friend for this type of repair – it is a fast evaporating degreaser. I used it before sanding (so I didn’t don’t grind in the bad rusty stuff) and prior to painting to mitigate contamination of the rusted areas.



According to the manufacturer Rust Bullet can be applied directly over rusted and clean metal requiring little or no surface preparation prior to application. Note: The Rust Bullet manufacturer indicates it is resistant to Ultraviolet Light, so applying a topcoat is not necessary. Rust Bullet is metallic gray in color. I used the automotive formula since it contains more metal and is a bit thinner than the regular formula allowing for easier application if using a brush or HVLP spray gun.



Sanded the Rust Bullet primed areas and applied primer and topcoat the trailer (mounting flanges, mounting holes, running board seep spots, etc…) blending in the topcoat finish to the surrounding painted areas. Like most projects this one grew from fixing the brakes, lights and replacing worn carpet to more than what I originally envisioned. My main objective not to paint the entire trailer but to help halt the progression of the rust and repair only the rusted areas.



For the top coat on the trailer fenders, in addition to the Rust Bullet (rust encapsulation primer) I chose to apply a PPG epoxy primer on the trailer fenders followed by a PPG topcoat in black gloss. PPG Epoxy Primer using DPLF with the DP402LF hardener and the PPG top coat using PPG DELSTAR and the appropriate DTR reducer with the DXR80 hardener




I installed the new carpet using an outdoor carpet adhesive and an electric stapler loaded with Monel (rust resistant) staples. I used the old running board carpet a rough guide outline for cutting the new carpet sections. I installed the new bunk carpet cut from the marine carpet roll with an electric stapler loaded with Monel (rust resistant) staples.    Also, I installed the new bow stop carpet cut from the marine carpet roll.





Finished off the trailer repair job by installing the new set of the heavy duty trailer guide pads. Still need to apply new 3M reflective 1/8” white pinstripes and replace the remaining caution decals


I am pleased with the results, in my opinion it looks OK and the surge brakes work and now all the trailer lights work! Special thanks to Pete, I gained a lot of information and knowledge from reading his forum posts and thanks to all the other regular forum members on this site as well, I would not have attempted my own repairs if it not were the information I gained from reading previous posts on this site.

Still need replacement Warning and Caution decals, Ski Nautique / Correct Craft decals; I will start with Woody and Bruce, but I could use CCFAN member assistance to help locate the decals.

Now, it looks like I have to spring for new stainless steel bow stop U bolts from Mc Master Carr to replace those older rusted bow stop U bolts….
1989 Ski Nautique
Former Boats:
1988 Dominique
1993 Ski Nautique
Back to Top
Morfoot View Drop Down
Grand Poobah
Grand Poobah
Avatar

Joined: February-06-2004
Location: South Lanier
Status: Offline
Points: 5308
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Morfoot Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: January-31-2010 at 12:46am
Wow! What a great thread. Thanks for posting this and documenting it all. I'll definately bookmark this one!
"Morfoot; He can ski. He can wakeboard.He can cook chicken.He can create his own self-named beverage, & can also apparently fly. A man of many talents."72 Mustang "Kermit",88 SN Miss Scarlett, 99 SN "Sherman"
Back to Top
MartyMabe View Drop Down
Grand Poobah
Grand Poobah
Avatar

Joined: February-21-2006
Location: High Point,NC
Status: Offline
Points: 3971
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote MartyMabe Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: January-31-2010 at 12:59am
You didn't show us how you did your bunks!
Putting diamond plate on mine.

66 Skylark
93 SN
If you're not living in NC, you're just camping out!
Back to Top
critter View Drop Down
Platinum Member
Platinum Member
Avatar

Joined: January-11-2008
Location: New Hill, NC
Status: Offline
Points: 1227
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote critter Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: January-31-2010 at 3:12am
Excellent information here Randy. Thanks for sharing and for being so detailed with the process and materials you used.
1980 Ski Nautique
1966 Barracuda
Back to Top
adamt View Drop Down
Gold Member
Gold Member
Avatar

Joined: July-18-2007
Location: Orlando, FL
Status: Offline
Points: 927
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote adamt Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: January-31-2010 at 4:36am
Nice work, you need to show it off in Astor, are you on the roster yet?
-Adam

1973 Skier
Back to Top
8122pbrainard View Drop Down
Grand Poobah
Grand Poobah
Avatar

Joined: September-14-2006
Location: Three Lakes Wi.
Status: Offline
Points: 41040
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 8122pbrainard Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: January-31-2010 at 9:59am
Randy,
Fantastic! Great addition to the site.


54 Atom


77 Tique

64 X55 Dunphy

Keep it original, Pete
<
Back to Top
DAY_TRIP View Drop Down
Newbie
Newbie
Avatar

Joined: August-24-2009
Location: Juno Beach Fl
Status: Offline
Points: 38
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote DAY_TRIP Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: January-31-2010 at 3:23pm
Nice work! Better than new with that level of attention and craftmanship.
Back to Top
Hollywood View Drop Down
Moderator Group
Moderator Group
Avatar

Joined: February-04-2004
Location: Twin Lakes, WI
Status: Offline
Points: 13510
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Hollywood Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: February-01-2010 at 1:35pm
Bookmarked, great post! I may tow the '88 with my Fleetwood so I need to install a new brake system.
Back to Top
89Ski_Nautique View Drop Down
Senior Member
Senior Member
Avatar

Joined: May-26-2009
Location: Windermere, FL
Status: Offline
Points: 160
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 89Ski_Nautique Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: February-02-2010 at 1:06am
Gang,

Thanks for the compliments, I could not have done it without your help.

Adam,

I am still trying for work things out for the St John's River Run, I will keep you posted.

Marty,

That's great, let me know when they are available. I would like to place an order for these along with a glove box decal. I just installed the trailer "slippery when wet" decals as shown below.



Randy
1989 Ski Nautique
Former Boats:
1988 Dominique
1993 Ski Nautique
Back to Top
sleader View Drop Down
Newbie
Newbie
Avatar

Joined: January-29-2012
Location: Florida
Status: Offline
Points: 6
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote sleader Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: July-22-2013 at 8:45pm
That is some very well documented and detailed information. Thanks I am going to take some of that advise!
1stboat
Back to Top
P71_CrownVic View Drop Down
Gold Member
Gold Member
Avatar

Joined: July-07-2008
Location: SD
Status: Offline
Points: 534
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote P71_CrownVic Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: July-22-2013 at 10:46pm
If you had so much fun doing it that you are dying to do it again, my trailer needs attention.

I'll even fly you up here!
Back to Top
RammerJammer View Drop Down
Groupie
Groupie
Avatar

Joined: June-02-2015
Location: VA
Status: Offline
Points: 73
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote RammerJammer Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: February-17-2016 at 6:32pm
Randy, do you have any updates on how well Rust Bullet works for you? I'm about to do a lot of work on my trailer and was wondering. Thanks for all this info, it's a big help!
1991 Nautique Excel, PCM 351, Pro-Tec ignition
Back to Top
Hollywood View Drop Down
Moderator Group
Moderator Group
Avatar

Joined: February-04-2004
Location: Twin Lakes, WI
Status: Offline
Points: 13510
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Hollywood Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: February-17-2016 at 7:04pm
He sold the boat and hasn't been back here in almost 4 years.
Back to Top
RammerJammer View Drop Down
Groupie
Groupie
Avatar

Joined: June-02-2015
Location: VA
Status: Offline
Points: 73
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote RammerJammer Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: February-17-2016 at 7:19pm
Wow, didn't realize that. Thank you for the heads up.
1991 Nautique Excel, PCM 351, Pro-Tec ignition
Back to Top
8122pbrainard View Drop Down
Grand Poobah
Grand Poobah
Avatar

Joined: September-14-2006
Location: Three Lakes Wi.
Status: Offline
Points: 41040
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 8122pbrainard Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: February-17-2016 at 7:23pm


54 Atom


77 Tique

64 X55 Dunphy

Keep it original, Pete
<
Back to Top
RammerJammer View Drop Down
Groupie
Groupie
Avatar

Joined: June-02-2015
Location: VA
Status: Offline
Points: 73
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote RammerJammer Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: February-17-2016 at 7:32pm
Pete, thank you for the link. I've read a lot of Rust Bullet reviews and some of the negative ones say their metal continued to rust underneath the Rust Bullet coats. In some of those cases, who knows how good the prep work was before applying the Rust Bullet. I was hoping to get a good opinion from a fellow boater who knows what he's doing. I personally am a fan of the POR line so far but have used it in limited applications.
1991 Nautique Excel, PCM 351, Pro-Tec ignition
Back to Top
SNobsessed View Drop Down
Grand Poobah
Grand Poobah


Joined: October-21-2007
Location: IA
Status: Offline
Points: 7102
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote SNobsessed Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: February-17-2016 at 8:17pm
I have had good luck with POR-15 & also cheaper generic versions of it.
“Beer is proof that God loves us and wants us to be happy.”

Ben Franklin
Back to Top
8122pbrainard View Drop Down
Grand Poobah
Grand Poobah
Avatar

Joined: September-14-2006
Location: Three Lakes Wi.
Status: Offline
Points: 41040
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 8122pbrainard Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: February-17-2016 at 8:36pm
Courtney,
When I rebuilt an old TeeNee trailer for my Atom, I Had a challenging paint problem. The center main box tube needed to be reinforced so I inserted 3 pieces of flat stock inside the box tube and then plug welded them into the inside in the vertical position. I was now left with a blind area that needed some kind of coating. The TeeNee had sat out in the weeds for better than 25 years so the inside had plenty of rust. I didn't want to chance/experiment one of the new coatings so I stuck with a big name in industrial coatings. I used a Sherwin Williams penetrating zinc rich epoxy primer. I actually plugged one end of the box tube, poured the paint in rotated and tipped the tube to get full and penetrating coverage. A zinc rich coating is as close to galvanizing as you can get. Since it was an epoxy, I didn't have to worry about any ponding of the primer affecting a cure. So far so good with no signs of rust creeping out from the inside of the tube. You haven't mentioned who's trailer you have. Does it have box sections of tubing?


54 Atom


77 Tique

64 X55 Dunphy

Keep it original, Pete
<
Back to Top
RammerJammer View Drop Down
Groupie
Groupie
Avatar

Joined: June-02-2015
Location: VA
Status: Offline
Points: 73
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote RammerJammer Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: February-17-2016 at 9:50pm
Pete, it's so funny you told that story, I'm going to do the exact same thing with mine. I wasn't sure where that technique is on the redneck scale so I wasn't going to bring it up, but I'm glad a respected member like you mentioned it. I don't know who made my trailer but it's original to the boat (1991), single axle, six lug, v-drive, painted steel box beam. The beams are in pretty good shape but there is a rust hole in the underside of one beam where the running board support was once attached. I'm going to do a few welding repairs, install disc brakes & coupler, re-do the wiring, and seal & paint it.
1991 Nautique Excel, PCM 351, Pro-Tec ignition
Back to Top
throttle out View Drop Down
Senior Member
Senior Member


Joined: May-11-2015
Location: Chelsea, MI
Status: Offline
Points: 153
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote throttle out Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: January-03-2017 at 10:37am
1989 Ski Nautique 2001 351 PCM w/ 1-1.23
Back to Top
SoggyDollar89 View Drop Down
Newbie
Newbie


Joined: May-13-2019
Location: Sacramento, CA
Status: Offline
Points: 22
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote SoggyDollar89 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May-30-2020 at 1:49am
Appreciate the information, started my own repairs and using your info made it so much more simple.
Back to Top
BeSquare View Drop Down
Newbie
Newbie


Joined: April-25-2018
Location: New Jersey/York
Status: Offline
Points: 16
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote BeSquare Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: June-16-2020 at 8:58pm
Found this 10-year old post. Just what I need. My ‘88 trailer fell apart like a cartoon today. Not sure what happened and I was lucky I got to a pull-off, as both wheels literally fell off trailer. I suspect surge brake got stuck, overheated, bales the hubs to failure. Hoping your posts gets me to correct total axle replacement with brakes. Any advice welcome. It’s gonna be an in-the-lot repair job. Jacking and blocking trailer in place with boat on.
Back to Top
 Post Reply Post Reply
  Share Topic   

Forum Jump Forum Permissions View Drop Down

Copyright 2024 | Bagley Productions, LLC