71SN Stringer

I have been using the Wakeslayer and Keeganino threads as a reference as I undertake my own stringer replacement and I thought I would post some pictures as I move forward. This is my current status, dry fitting the stringers. Most of the PITA work is done and time permitting I am hopeful to get them set within the next two weeks.









FrankT

I intend to rough up the existing glass. Hopefully this will be the last of the PITA work. I am planing on glassing the stringers before I put them in with 4oz fabric and epoxy. I will try to post some pictures of this process.

FrankT

Looking good Frank!

I agree with Tim on getting the gel out of there. I got about 95% of it.
Assuming you are using CPES and covering with a coat of epoxy, I am not sure you need to glass the entire stringer before you put them in. Glassing the drains, however, will make life much easier. One thing about the drains is that I think it will be a lot easier to round them at the corners a bit. Corners are a biatch to glass. I am glassing over the drains and notches entirely and then grinding them out. Measuring and cutting holes in the fabric accurately is pretty much, for me, not happening. A grinding bit on the dremel is a hell of a lot faster and less frustrating. I do think the water intakes are going to be in your way too. They are easy to remove, and will be sealed better when re-installed with 5200.
I am curious about the larger notch where it appears you from motor mounts are going to be. What was there before? What engine did you have. My mounts sit on top. I assume the larger notch further forward is for your pylon mount. I still have to figure out what to do there.

Keep the pics and updates coming!!!

Mike

I would be curious to see what you are talking about with the mount. Is this something you are through bolting prior to installing the stringer?
My mounts sit on top and will just be lagged deep into the stringer on both the motor and the trans.

Nice pics Frank and great work. You are ahead of me by light years! My wood was supposed to be here yesterday but now is coming at the end of the week. I have a local supplier that I am getting all my glass from, but not sure yet if they have the epoxy I need.

My mounts have holes that look like you could through bolt them horizontally to the stringers. Cant see the holes in this pic but you can see how the mounts go down along the inside of the stringer.

Frank,

You are not going to glass the stingers in? I think you need to for strength. Also, no CPES? Did you put a couple coats of epoxy on the stringers prior to starting the layup? The secondaries look raw.

I did look and my mounts are the same as yours, I just don't have the plate. I would be interested to hear if others with that year of boat have them, or if them were added after the fact to combat stringers starting to rot.

Greg - I think a typical design is to have a threaded bolting plate on the back side of the stringer - it has to be retained such that it doesn't drop when all the bolts are out!

Finally set the stringer last night. It took quite a bit longer to grind than anticipated. It would appear that Correct Crafts tolerance was not very tight and at several locations on the secondary stringers ½” of resin had to be ground out.

In my opinion you have to stabilize the trailer. It flexes and moves quite a bit and lowering the boat makes getting in and out a lot easier.



What we did was to dry set the stringers first and then made several braces to hold everything the way we wanted. The braces in the front and back fit tight to the sides of the boat and hold the center line. Then we cut some legs and temporarily raised the jigged stringers about 18 inches so we could apply the epoxy underneath. Then we unscrewed the legs and lowered into the boat. After that we created some fillets with some plastic spoons. We may have some touch ups after the braces are removed.







Here are some of my epoxy tricks. I like to use old coffee creamer bottles for dispensing epoxy while mixing. The spout allows small amounts to be poured and they clean up well with a paper towel. To mix larger quantities I make a mixer out of a dowel and flat piece of wood, this is part of a paint stick, and an electric drill. I reuse anything plastic for mixing. Taller cottage cheese containers work well if you are adding silica. I mix epoxy by weight and graduations are not necessary.



FrankT           

Looking good. Interesting to see how you glassed the stringers. What's the reasoning behind using weights to "pull" the glass tight? Does this give a better bond than just rolling it or using a squeegee?

Make some progress but time to work on the SN is sometimes hard to find. Spoon fillets are done and half of the joints are taped. Tape detail is two layers of 3" offset about and inch then both covered with a piece of 6". With the drainage slots we basically have six locations about 4 feet long. Secondary stringers are rough cut but need to be sealed and glassed before they get set. Once everything is taped in a another cost of epoxy will be brushed on.

FrankT

Frank! boat looks great your almost there.

no foam i guess...looking good!!!

Pre-glassed secondary stringers are in and fillets complete. Will hopefully find time to tape the joints this weekend. Once this is done the old floor line, kept as a reference point, will be ground smooth and the sides prepped for new carpet. I will be picking up some white oak for the floor battens and the pylon brace.







FrankT

I have seen your pictures and will have something similar. There is a flange on my pylon that gets installed under the pylon cross member which actually bolts through the cross member and the plywood flooring. This flange also has a pin the goes through the pylon. The pin location establishes the thickness of the cross member unless I want to re-drill. Did you have this flange?

FranbkT