230 OMC

Thanks GP... appreciated. So, to be perfectly clear, just go ahead and install the new distributor, and point the rotor blade "towards" the #1 firing plug/wire in the cap? Then I should be able to start her up and time her, yes? And, yeah, I'll be careful how I position the base regarding access & clips & stuff. Again, these may be stupid questions, but I gotta ask anyhow.

Hey guys... So I've gone ahead and replaced my plugs and wires to try and address my hard hot and cold starting issues as a start. I've also gone ahead and invested in a new distributor. So far, I've tried to follow the Mallory instructions as best I can, except that when I removed the old dizzy, the rotor turned so I'm not exactly sure which direction it should be pointed. Before removing it, though, I made sure to set the flywheel at 0º top dead center. So, technically, the rotor blade (when I place the new dizzy in) should be pointing towards the #1 cylinder/plug/wire, right? And it shouldn't matter which way the new base of the distributor is pointing, right? I plan to time everything once I have it in, but I just want to make sure I'm in the "ballpark" so it'll at least start up. Hopefully I don't sound too knuckleheaded...   don't do this for a living.

I'm also planning on trying to "tune" my carb (mostly the float level) as directed by some guys here. But I'm having a really hard time finding any instructions on how to go about doing it, even on the Holley site. Anyone have any thoughts about where to find a "tuning guide" for a Holley 80552 carb, specifically how to adjust the float level?

ReidP I see you're posting here. Question, you dragging anything down to the boat show,flea market in Florida?

79nautique wrote: debate, no debate just orginal Pete is dead set on points.

This is very true!!

79nautique wrote: Same story same discussion same results.

I can say the same about your opinions too!   

Sheesh... now that's a firestorm of debate. Nice work, guys. And thanks for all the insight. When the ice shakes loose here in the next few weeks, I'm going to start digging into these upgrades and such. I'm hopeful you gents will stay tuned and be willing to provide more guidance (and debate) as I need it which sounds like a sport for you...

Again, thanks guys.

time for some new points Pete

8122pbrainard wrote: 79nautique wrote: A point style ignition system does not compare to an electroinc unit, if your tooling around in a four banger But if your just floating around enjoying your classic woodie on a sunnny day then you won't tell a bit of difference, but on a 300hp engine you will. Chris, You seem to forget that I do have other boats. The 28 years of point life was on my 312. Sorry it's not 300HP and only 215. BTW, it was running and starting great!! One day I was just thinking about when I did a tune up on it, went back to the year I bought it and calculated the years. Then said to myself maybe after 28 I should do a tune up on it!! The hardest part was getting the plugs out!

well aware of that fact Pete but the big question is actual hours on the boat for that 28 years that is what makes a difference and tells you how much ware they have seen.

79nautique wrote: A point style ignition system does not compare to an electroinc unit, if your tooling around in a four banger But if your just floating around enjoying your classic woodie on a sunnny day then you won't tell a bit of difference, but on a 300hp engine you will.

Chris, You seem to forget that I do have other boats. The 28 years of point life was on my 312. Sorry it's not 300HP and only 215.

BTW, it was running and starting great!! One day I was just thinking about when I did a tune up on it, went back to the year I bought it and calculated the years. Then said to myself maybe after 28 I should do a tune up on it!! The hardest part was getting the plugs out!

Sounds like those electoinc ignitions are pretty unreliable then Tim? It's been a long time since GLII only time I recall anyone having to deal with a module issue, should have know it was Mojo's basket case.

pertronix, prestolite conversions junk nothing but issues, E-spark from mallory not an issue full blown electroinc dist not an issue. If i've been running on the same module for 5-6 years then yes I would carry a 40 dollar spare, FYI you don't have to get the marine grade it's the same as the automotive, just priced differently, Marine spark suppression is built into the dist base not the module or cap.

only time an electroinc ignition has ever left anyone I know out on the lake was mine and it was a coil that I knew wasn't going to hold up but what some DA tech recommended to me, new coil no problem and then Tim's Special DUI module that lasted all of a month or two.

A point style ignition system does not compare to an electroinc unit, if your tooling around in a four banger your not going to notice a perfomance change or an improvement in fuel consumption if you switched, but with an electroinc ignition and a properly tuned engine you will see better quicker starting, be able to run a large plug gap which will improve fuel ecconomy. And if you've got a hot rod motor then you'll see better holeshot and overall performance as well.

But if your just floating around enjoying your classic woodie on a sunnny day then you won't tell a bit of difference, but on a 300hp engine you will.

Don't believe modules cost that much and if it is new you don't have anything to worry about until several years down the road.

8122pbrainard wrote: TRBenj wrote: eric lavine wrote: Pete, with E its set and forget, you dont have to sand anything. But if that module fails, you'll be looking for a tow! Been there, done that. I love the DUI in my '90 and the BFN... the performance difference they made was really noticeable. However, my Skier with a newer Prestolite points dizzy starts better than anything I own and is my most reliable runner. If everything is dialed in, I see no reason to swap out the points for an EI conversion... unless youre going for all out performance. Tim, The point I was trying to make went right over their heads!!

so if the points fail you work on them while your floating, if the module fails then you replace it as you should have an extra in the boat just as you have your file and sand paper to work on the points.

so the point would be what? that old scout saying? be prepared? so with points you need a new set, file sandpaper and tools, with a E-conversion or E-dist, tools and a module are what's needed to be prepared so in either case if your not prepared for the unexpected you'll be looking for a tow back to shore right? what am I missing here?

and like the module is any harder to replace than filing points.

I here ya Eric, put new ones in johns and had to spark them 4-5 times before the POS's would fire the coil, old tech vs new tech new tech usually wins out.

Nice... thanks for the pic. Now THAT looks like my engine. And what you've done is what I'd really like to do: not yank and re-build it, but just do "component" upgrades, clean it up and get it running and looking better. Again, my engine runs great and doesn't seem to have a crazy number of hours on it (480ish). And, yep, the painting process you went through (removing 'parts' and taping and such, in the boat) is what I'd like to do too.