Transmission Swap

is transmission lenght the same?

My boat is still in storage. Looks like the Borg Warner is 10.5" long, how long is the PCM?
I’m worried that if I get the PCM rebuilt and in a year I hit something, I’ll be right back to ware I am now.

Does anyone have or know the overall length of the PCM 40 1:1?

Parts pricing is truly the issue with rebuilding small 1:1 transmissions. Eric, I like you can replace new for just about the same cost as a full re-build.
Me I have customers coming from all over the south east and I do not like re-building something that I can replace with a better warranty for a few hundred more to the customer. The Front pump on the borg is it's Achiles heal just like the drum situation with the PCM and the Hurths Well yes they truly are throw away when they go bad from the start.
Again I would like to think I have a great test bed for the PCM 1:1 as I have one in front of my 600HP plus 502 and regulary spin it up to 6000 Rpm. No runs, no drips, no errors. Can't say so much for the old AeroMarine throughbred V-drive as it grenaded on Christmas day.

no really though, these boats are not recessision proof and the question was asked that he could get a BW 10-17-004 trans for 650.00 with low hours and will it fit. and the answer was yes, chances are you have to purchase a damper plate while the trans is out anyways, he is doing all the work himself and there was no financial gain to me. maybe a bit of good customer service. ??? now if he had an open checkbook.....flys onsht

Transmission Swap step by step. I’m no expert but this is how I did mine, with lots of advise form Eric.

1)     Removed starter.
2)     Unbolted prop shaft (prior owner had stainless steel bolts.)
3)     Loosened front motor mounts.
4)     Removed rear motor mount bolts to stringers.
5)     Unbolted the Elec. Box and moved it out of the way.
6)     Disconnected shift linkage.
7)     Unbolted the trans cooler from the bellhousing.
8)     Used a scissors jack under the back of the exhaust manifold to lift engine up. I cut a 2 x 4 to fit under the “other exhaust manifold”.
9)      Removed the four bolts that hold the PCM to the bellhousing. Could not get it out and around the exhaust hoses with the rear motor mounts attached. Reinstalled the trans, removed the mounts. It came out, hoses and cooler attached, no problem. (65 lbs.)
10)     With the PCM and the BW on the bench I measured the overall length form the face to the output flange. The PCM is 10 5/8 long and the BW is 10 ½ long. No problem with the prop shaft (trans 1/8 shorter)
11)     Removed the bellhousing (see photo).
12)      Marked the holes in the flywheel that the damper plate used. Removed PCM damper plate (springs were very loose).
13)     Installed the BW damper plate with new lock washers finger tight. Made sure the outside diameter of the plates were the same.
14)     Drilled an access hole in the bellhousing to match the location of the damper plate bolts. (see photo, black plug behind cooler hose)
15)     The BW uses 4 studs (lower) and 2 bolts (upper) to mount to the bellhousing. These need to be “manifold studs” ¾ long thread into bellhousing 7/16 -14 X 4”. I purchased grade 5 bolts 4” long cut head off and threaded ¾ on one end. I think you can buy these from Crusader Marine.
16)     With blue locktite and double nuts I installed the studs into the bellhousing.
17)     Reinstalled the bellhousing to the block.
18)     I used the old PCM mounting bolts in the sides of the BW (where the mounts go) as handles. This is a two person (min) job 95 lbs. Placed some grease on the spline, slid the trans down the studs to the bellhousing. It took two tries to get the splines to line up, slid her home. Upper bolts & nuts and lock washers, it’s on!
19)     Bolted on the motor mounts to the trans and drilled new mounting holes. The BW motor mount holes are 7/8 farther back on the side of the trans.
20)     Rotated the engine off the front of the crankshaft until I could see the damper plate bolts through the access hole, tightened all three.
21)     Made and installed a shifter cable bracket, adjusted the cable.
22)     Had new cooler lines made to BW specs, installed.
23)     Reinstalled the starter. Aligned engine/ prop shaft.
24)     Tested in the driveway on the hose, no leaks and shifted fine.
25)     Water tested great, put the hammer down and she pulled like a freight train from 750 rpm to over 4000 rpm. I have not had a chance to run it wide open, the prop is a Acme 541. Thanks Eric!!!