Wiring harness

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   On my 1983 2001, the 8-way engine harness plug appears to be getting flakey. I am seeing a 2 to 3 volt difference between the battery level and everything after this connector, including the ignition and dashboard.

If I cycle the connection, I can get everything working for a while.

It looks to be a major project to replace the whole wiring harness, is there anything that can bring the contacts back to life?

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tutor turtle Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Groupie Joined: April-17-2007 Location: United States Status: Offline Points: 50	Post Options Post Reply Quote tutor turtle Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Topic: Wiring harness Posted: May-17-2010 at 12:51pm
	On my 1983 2001, the 8-way engine harness plug appears to be getting flakey. I am seeing a 2 to 3 volt difference between the battery level and everything after this connector, including the ignition and dashboard. If I cycle the connection, I can get everything working for a while. It looks to be a major project to replace the whole wiring harness, is there anything that can bring the contacts back to life?
	Tutor turtle

8122pbrainard Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Grand Poobah Joined: September-14-2006 Location: Three Lakes Wi. Status: Offline Points: 41040	Post Options Post Reply Quote 8122pbrainard Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: May-17-2010 at 2:30pm
	Steven, To avoid you having to go through the whole thread, I just copied and pasted the following from a recent post. "Post Options Post Reply Quote 8122pbrainard Edit Post Quote Reply Posted: 13-May-2010 at 10:52am Originally posted by grose no power to the dash problem fixed. after a lot of testing, all it took was unplugging the wiring harness on the back of the engine an plugging it back in. just a loose connection. unplugged again and took a small screwdriver into the female end and closed them up just a little to get a tighter fit and we're good to go. Greg, I highly recommend to go after this connector again in fact, any connectors and terminals. The last one I opened up was on my Tique due to a voltage drop issue. I found nothing but green (copper oxide) inside. By cleaning all the plugs and the connections up, I eliminated 1.3 volts of power drop. Get inside each female socket with some "scotch brite" rolled up or use a small wire brush on a Dremel tool until all the corrosion is gone. Then and very important is to use dielectric grease when you put them back together. I have seen these plugs literally burnt up due to corrosion/resistance and the resulting heat."
	54 Atom 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete <

tutor turtle Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Groupie Joined: April-17-2007 Location: United States Status: Offline Points: 50	Post Options Post Reply Quote tutor turtle Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: May-17-2010 at 2:52pm
	Thanks brainard, I figured someone had to have seen this before and had a low-cost solution. I've cleaned the male contacts, but the sockets are gunked-up and (as the previous poster noted) a little over-expanded. It looks as much of a poor grip issue as a corrosion one. But it's nice to know it's fixable. This should do the trick, thanks again.
	Tutor turtle

pmt2234 Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Groupie Joined: June-14-2005 Location: United States Status: Offline Points: 46	Post Options Post Reply Quote pmt2234 Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: May-24-2010 at 8:36pm
	I fought the same problem for years, voltage drop at the plug/socket. I went cheap for a while, cleaning contacts, etc., then bought a bunch of proper marine grade wire and did everything point to point about 2 years ago. No problems since.

tutor turtle Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Groupie Joined: April-17-2007 Location: United States Status: Offline Points: 50	Post Options Post Reply Quote tutor turtle Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: May-25-2010 at 3:45pm
	That is certainly is the surest solution. I was thinking along the same lines, my only reservation to that solution is: Can you think of any instance where I would need the "modularity" of being able to separate the harness? The only thing I could think of was, If I had to remove the motor (a very unlikely event) in which case I would ether label the individual wires, or disconnect them at their source/destination. What gauge are those conductors? I'll have to gather my stock before I leave home, the boat lives two hours north, up in Gods country, where the few stores that do exist, have little useful stock for ski-boats. Am I missing anything? I have a friend who works for Chrysler. They employed a Hall-Effect sensor for the throttle position, whose output was in the micro-volt range. No matter how clean the connector looked, it only took a little resistance to alter the reading and cause drivability issues. The TSB (technical service bulletin) specified: snip off the connector, solder the wires. It worked every time. Much Thanks- Steven M
	Tutor turtle

Wiring harness

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