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Fuel leak at carb

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OverMyHead View Drop Down
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    Posted: September-17-2010 at 5:11am
I have a stubborn leak at the fuel fitting that enters the carb. Have tried tightening it multiple times but still get a small puddle on the manifold. Obviously not an acceptable condition. Can I use teflon tape or any other product on it?
For thousands of years men have felt the irresistible urge to go to sea, and many of them died. Things got better after they invented boats.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Morfoot Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: September-17-2010 at 9:05am
I'd remove the fitting from the carb and make sure that the threads are clean and free from debris. Look at end of the tube to be sure it isn't cracked. Replace it if it is. You might have some old teflon tape on the fitting or in the base of the carb so clean up both and put some new teflon tape on the fitting and tighten it up. Leak check it again to be sure yo fixed it.
"Morfoot; He can ski. He can wakeboard.He can cook chicken.He can create his own self-named beverage, & can also apparently fly. A man of many talents."72 Mustang "Kermit",88 SN Miss Scarlett, 99 SN "Sherman"
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote GottaSki Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: September-17-2010 at 9:22am
No, no tape.
Get a new metal gasket or fuel line if tightening doesn't work.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 8122pbrainard Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: September-17-2010 at 9:22am
Dave,
That flare needs to be double wrenched when tightening. It's a real tight area and on my Tique (had the same issue) I had to remove the throttle cable bracket to get to it. The problem is when it's tightened, you put a slight twist in the steel line and then the steel line will go back to it's original position unscrewing the flare adaptor. Loosen the flare first. Make sure the fiber sealing washer under the adaptor is in good shape. Tighten the adaptor and then double wrench the flare tightening it making sure you're not twisting the fuel line. A old trick is to use some lubricant under the flare nut (NOT on the flare itself) so the tubing will be free to rotate slightly until the flare is fully seated/tightened.


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 81nautique Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: September-17-2010 at 9:38am
Originally posted by GottaSki GottaSki wrote:

No, no tape.
Get a new metal gasket or fuel line if tightening doesn't work.


Exactly, the leak is probably not the flare fitting but the carb fitting with the screen in it. Replace the gasket and install this fitting tight then re-install your fuel line and see what happens. If that doesn't work replace the steel line itself.

Pete suggested a while back to put a little grease on the flare fitting so the steel line can swivel as you're tightening, otherwise the line gets torqued and always wants to back off..Brilliant

PS. chased this exact problem this summer and replaced both gasket and line to get it to stop.

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote behindpropeller Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: September-17-2010 at 9:54am
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Morfoot Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: September-17-2010 at 10:09am
If the fitting screwed into Carb is still leaking even with a new gasket then why is using Teflon tape a no-no? Pardon my stupidity and misleading suggestion. Maybe I should just stick to turbine engines
"Morfoot; He can ski. He can wakeboard.He can cook chicken.He can create his own self-named beverage, & can also apparently fly. A man of many talents."72 Mustang "Kermit",88 SN Miss Scarlett, 99 SN "Sherman"
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 8122pbrainard Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: September-17-2010 at 10:15am
Tim,
If all else failed, I'd be putting teflon tape on it too! Really, the carb adapter needs to be tightened down and stay tightened. With the teflon and it's lubricity, I'd worry about the fitting loosening up. The new flat gasket should do it.


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 81nautique Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: September-17-2010 at 11:14am
Best thing I've found to get that flare adapter tight is to get the fuel line out of the way and use a thin wall socket on it. Most other wrenches are just too bulky to get on it. Then go back and install the fuel line with the lube of choice and double wrenches.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote OverMyHead Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: September-17-2010 at 11:59am
I do not recal seeing the fiber gasket when I dissasembled the fitting. Can I pick that up at NAPA? or is it marine specific?
For thousands of years men have felt the irresistible urge to go to sea, and many of them died. Things got better after they invented boats.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 8122pbrainard Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: September-17-2010 at 12:04pm
Dave,
You should be able to get it at Napa. As long as you're getting into the adapter, take it off and check the condition of the filter/screen under it. You may also want to take the adapter with you to Napa when you go for the sealing washer.


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote GottaSki Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: September-17-2010 at 12:05pm
Originally posted by Morfoot Morfoot wrote:

If the fitting screwed into Carb is still leaking even with a new gasket then why is using Teflon tape a no-no? Pardon my stupidity and misleading suggestion. Maybe I should just stick to turbine engines


Because in these cases, the threads are not meant the sealing surface, like in pipe threads. Not on the adapter to carb body, nor the adapter to fuel line.

Just an oppertunity for shredded tape to clog a jet or idle passage, or boogar up the needle and seat.

And, I remember the gasket being a soft metal, not fiber.

I concur, the two-wrench method is critical.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Bri892001 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: September-17-2010 at 1:08pm
Originally posted by OverMyHead OverMyHead wrote:

I do not recal seeing the fiber gasket when I dissasembled the fitting. Can I pick that up at NAPA? or is it marine specific?


I believe this is what you speak of:
GASKT FUEL INLET FITTING HOLLEY

The part description even mentions it's a potential source of a leak. If it works it will probably be the best $1.39 you ever spend
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 81nautique Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: September-17-2010 at 1:09pm
the gasket is metal and you may have to order it from Summit, none of my local autoparts stores could get it unless I wanted to buy a complete rebuild kit.

gasket

Edit : whoa, beat me to it and much cheaper! but yes that's the right part.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Randy_in_Ohio Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: September-17-2010 at 7:31pm
I've had this same issue on and off since I got my boat. I had Eric tighten it down when he had the boat last year and it was fine until the last time I took it out and noticed it was leaking again. I was able to tighten it up enough to get me through the day, but I'm always checking for a gas leak there. I have replaced the fuel line and the gasket. I was planning on rebuilding the carb this winter and figured I would get it sorted out then but I may take a look at it tonight over a couple brews. I may hit the lake tomorrow and I want to make sure this thing isn't leaking.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote OverMyHead Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: September-17-2010 at 7:52pm
Noi Luck at NAPA but they recommende the carb shop. The palce must be good . they had a bout 15 carbs on their front desk and at least 100 in site. The guy new thae carbs and sold me on each of the two size seals that tehy use on the intake for a $1.25 each. Said he would rebuild the carb for about $190. I told him I had an issue with the low spped mis screws. He said they get messed up but as long as it idles ok dont mess with it. So I hope I will be good for now.
For thousands of years men have felt the irresistible urge to go to sea, and many of them died. Things got better after they invented boats.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 8122pbrainard Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: September-17-2010 at 8:58pm
Originally posted by OverMyHead OverMyHead wrote:

Noi Luck at NAPA but they recommende the carb shop.

Dave,
Must be a different carb shop. I've dealt with this place on a couple occasions. Once was looking for the Zenith T3X carb for my old 1927 Universal I rebuilt. He was the guy that said he had several but wanted $1600 for one rebuilt! The other time was to get a rebuild kit for the carb I did use for the engine that came off a Wisconsin 4 cylinder industrial.

Glad you found the sealing washer as well as the other gaskets. Keep us informed on how the project of stopping the leak goes.


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote OverMyHead Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: September-17-2010 at 11:09pm
Pete, different place. This was in St Paul MN. Put in the new metal ring, cranked the flare adapter prety tight, then lubed the outside of the flare and tighend that fitting . Ran on the hose for about 5 minutes with no leak. will continue to watch. Thanks everyone.
For thousands of years men have felt the irresistible urge to go to sea, and many of them died. Things got better after they invented boats.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Randy_in_Ohio Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: September-20-2010 at 1:34pm
I never got to go to the lake this weekend but I do think I put a stop to this leak once and for all. Using a 1" socket to tighten down that adapter was key. Pete's tip using the grease on the flange fitting was brilliant as well. I ran it in the driveway for about ten minutes and no leak!

One thing I would add is that after you have tightened down that adapter with the 1" socket and you are reattaching the fuel line, get both ends of the fuel line attached but not tight, then tighten them down alternating between both ends until tight. Be sure that both ends are well seated before final tightening.

Big thanks to Alan and Pete.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Keeganino Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: September-20-2010 at 2:09pm
Good thread. I had the same problem when I got my motor back from the mechanic- go figure. Luckily all I had to do was take the metal gasket out, clean all the surfaces and it sealed right up. Have been keeping an eye on it and have not had any leaks since.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 8122pbrainard Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: September-20-2010 at 2:24pm
Originally posted by Randy_in_Ohio Randy_in_Ohio wrote:

One thing I would add is that after you have tightened down that adapter with the 1" socket and you are reattaching the fuel line, get both ends of the fuel line attached but not tight, then tighten them down alternating between both ends until tight. Be sure that both ends are well seated before final tightening.

Randy,
I'm glad it worked and happy to help out.

Yes, aligning a hard flared line on both ends can be a challenge and I almost mentioned it in my grease under the nut post. The ends never seem to line up and care must be used to avoid cross threading the flare nuts.


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote skyhawkflyer Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: September-22-2010 at 3:52pm
Been there several years ago and fixed it... Here's how!
Remove the line, remove the fitting. Clean up the fitting well, mix up a small amount of Liquid Steel epoxy and apply to the threads and a dab on the thin washer. Screw it in and tighten it with a 1" 12 point socket and rachet. Let it cure, then reinstall your fuel line using pipe thread sealant (not the teflon tape) No more leaks, and it won't loosen up on you.

Others may argue not to do this, however once installed you should never have to remove this fitting, even when overhauling the carb, there are no filters under it. Since I did mine I haven't had the problem of it leaking again and presenting an explosion hazard when I'm out skiing.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 8122pbrainard Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: September-22-2010 at 4:10pm
Originally posted by skyhawkflyer skyhawkflyer wrote:

Been there several years ago and fixed it... Here's how!
Remove the line, remove the fitting. Clean up the fitting well, mix up a small amount of Liquid Steel epoxy and apply to the threads and a dab on the thin washer. Screw it in and tighten it with a 1" 12 point socket and rachet. Let it cure, then reinstall your fuel line using pipe thread sealant (not the teflon tape) No more leaks, and it won't loosen up on you.

Others may argue not to do this, however once installed you should never have to remove this fitting, even when overhauling the carb, there are no filters under it. Since I did mine I haven't had the problem of it leaking again and presenting an explosion hazard when I'm out skiing.

Thread sealant, liquid steel and no filter screen behind the flare adapter? Sorry but this is just poor advice.


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 82 Nautique 1 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: September-22-2010 at 4:23pm
Pete,

I agree. Why jury rig something that could and should be done right ? Not worth the risk. Buy the parts, fix it right, it is a Nautique.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote skyhawkflyer Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: September-23-2010 at 2:28pm
My 4160 just has a line adapter to the carburator, no filter underneath it, so no need to ever remove(I have a huge external water seperator/filter assy). I should have added that I was using a new line, washer, and adapter in an attempt to repair the leak permanently before a fire broke out. The new parts also leaked, and several of us came up with the JB Weld idea simply because in my application there is no need to ever remove it, this won't work for all as some carbs do have a filter.
I knew somebody wouldn't like this idea, but hey it worked very well for my setup, and it's been holding for almost 2 years now without leaks.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 8122pbrainard Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: September-23-2010 at 4:00pm
Originally posted by skyhawkflyer skyhawkflyer wrote:

My 4160 just has a line adapter to the carburator, no filter underneath it, so no need to ever remove(I have a huge external water seperator/filter assy).

The external fuel filters separators have been used since the 80's. Keep a eye on it since I have a feeling your gas isn't the greatest in your location.
Originally posted by 8122pbrainard 8122pbrainard wrote:

and no filter screen behind the flare adapter?

Someone took the filter screenout of your carb!!!!!



The fitting pictured on the right shows it. I suggest getting it back in there. Good luck getting the epoxy busted loose.


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote skyhawkflyer Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: September-23-2010 at 5:38pm
Nope, I ordered a replacement and a identical part came in. I'm leaving it as is, no leaks and it works great. I also use a filter funnel when fueling and haven't had a problem since I bought the boat in 1993. Mine is not like the picture.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Randy_in_Ohio Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: September-23-2010 at 9:41pm
Originally posted by skyhawkflyer skyhawkflyer wrote:

Nope, I ordered a replacement and a identical part came in. I'm leaving it as is, no leaks and it works great. I also use a filter funnel when fueling and haven't had a problem since I bought the boat in 1993. Mine is not like the picture.


Are you sure? I have a 93 with the Holly 4160 and there is a screen in that adapter. It's kinda in the middle of the adapter, I didn't notice it the last time I had it apart, but noticed it when I had it apart last week. Mine was clean, but still not a bad thing to check.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote john33617 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: September-23-2010 at 10:00pm
the problem is the steel line it keeps pressure on the fitting , JB weld the fitting in place , replace the steel line with a USCG hose , barb fittings on fuel pump and carb
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