Air Dock Lift -- Anyone use one? |
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63CCSN
Groupie Joined: September-02-2006 Location: United States Status: Offline Points: 97 |
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Posted: November-12-2010 at 6:01pm |
Has anyone used the an Air Dock lift? What are the pros and cons? I do not have access to power at my dock, so I would be using the converter option and batteries.
Thanks in advance for the feedback. |
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79TiqueRebuild
Senior Member Joined: January-21-2009 Location: Kansas City, Mo Status: Offline Points: 238 |
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Hi Adam,
We have 3 mounted on our dock. 2 set up for v bottom and 1 for a pontoon. We also don't have power to the dock but we mounted a small generator in a dock box and use it for airing up the lifts,sump pump for cleaning fish/dock and charging batteries. The biggest problem I have is when the water is low not being able to get the boats off. I recommend getting the type with bushings at the wear points. Also if you have rough water raise your lift while you use your boat. Hope this helps, Monty |
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63CCSN
Groupie Joined: September-02-2006 Location: United States Status: Offline Points: 97 |
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Monty,
Do you use a PVC frame with yours or do you just anchor the corners? Overall are you satisfied with the lift? Do you have any problem with ski boat skegs on the mat? How to they hold up to use? My main object is to keep scum of the boat... but that means it will be on the air dock mat... how hard are the mats to clean? The generator is a sweet idea! Thanks for the tip. Thanks again! |
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8122pbrainard
Grand Poobah Joined: September-14-2006 Location: Three Lakes Wi. Status: Offline Points: 41040 |
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Adam,
Does your water situation at the shore require a air type lift? BTW, there are several threads on the subject. |
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63CCSN
Groupie Joined: September-02-2006 Location: United States Status: Offline Points: 97 |
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The docks are officially owned by the town the lake is in -- they are floating docks that go in each spring and come out in the fall. Traditional lifts are not allowed -- but I got them to say that a "floating lift" that could easily be removed at the end of each season would be ok.
I'll search for the other threads -- but keep the comments coming. Thanks! |
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79TiqueRebuild
Senior Member Joined: January-21-2009 Location: Kansas City, Mo Status: Offline Points: 238 |
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Adam I think I misunderstood What you are describing.We have a floating dock with lifts in the slips.
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8122pbrainard
Grand Poobah Joined: September-14-2006 Location: Three Lakes Wi. Status: Offline Points: 41040 |
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Adam,
I like Monty was thinking about the same pontoon style lift. What you're talking about is just the big air bag under the boat correct? They won't keep the scum off the boat. In fact, it may even make it worse. |
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63CCSN
Groupie Joined: September-02-2006 Location: United States Status: Offline Points: 97 |
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Yep! I was talking about the lift "bag" if you will. Hmmm... rats! LOL
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79TiqueRebuild
Senior Member Joined: January-21-2009 Location: Kansas City, Mo Status: Offline Points: 238 |
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63CCSN
Groupie Joined: September-02-2006 Location: United States Status: Offline Points: 97 |
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That is exactly the contraption I'm talking about! Thanks for the link.
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Daveinater
Senior Member Joined: May-15-2007 Location: Senoia, Georgia Status: Offline Points: 264 |
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We have used an Air Dock for years now. We have a house on a lake where the water level drops to low pool during the winter months. The Air Dock works fine and we've been generally happy with it.
A few things to consider: The air dock model for our '92 Sport requires two "halves" and a front section that the bow rests on. The two sides, or "halves" are connected via a hinge that consists of loops which are staggered with a rod that runs between them, such that you end up with a true hinge in the middle (like you'd see with a metal piano hinge). There is a truck-style bed mat that is fastened on top of the two halves to protect the bladders from the fins. Our experience is that if you position the boat too far forward, the fins reach the forward limit of the bed mat (which straps on and is positioned in place by the straps), thus causing some issues with the fins "cutting" into the forward portion of the hinge (which is unprotected from the mat). We have had to cut away and replace a section of the hinge with a new section of hinge, which you put on by carefully prepping the bladder and gluing the hinge halves onto each of the two bladder "halves". After drying, the rod goes through these new hinge pieces and through the original intact hinge loops that run along the length of the two halves, forward to aft (hope all this makes sense). This patch held for a few years but we found that one side came unglued when we pulled the boat out at the end of this season. I will have to call and get another patch kit. Another thing to consider is that our Air Dock is in a u-shaped boat dock and under cover. I am not sure if having sun on the bladder all year long would be an issue as far as wear goes, but ours is under cover, away from the UV rays. I do leave the air dock in the water all year long. Additionally, our dock is deep in a cove so there's not a lot of wave action. I don't think this would be a good option for anyone who wishes to use it in an area with a lot of waves or in choppy water. The biggest factor for these air docks is that you do NOT want the weight of the boat to be placed on the ropes that hold the air dock in place. The air dock should be tethered to the dock structure (or PVC frame, as applicable) to simply hold it in place for putting the boat on or off. Once on, the boat should be tethered firmly to a structure other than the air dock (in our case, the boat is firmly tethered to the dock cleats, leaving the ropes attached to the air dock slack). If the ropes that run to the air dock rings are bearing the weight of the boat, you will rip the rings right off of the bladder(s). This is important. For us, we have the air dock held in place in our u-slip, then run the front part of the boat onto the air dock. Then we get out and use a rope attached to the bow to pull the boat onto the air dock. You can NOT drive the boat on! The instructions will tell you to attach weights (it took ours 20 lbs each side) to the rear corner rings so that when the bladders are deflated, the rear half of both bladders sinks down into the water, allowing room for the prop and allowing the boat to be "driven" on to the bladder. For me, I've never been comfortable driving the boat on. I use the rope and pull it on which takes just minimal effort. When the bladder inflates, the prop shaft runs along the rear hinge area and prop is just barely off of the bladder area....even though the bladders are sunk, it's just too close for me to feel comfortable driving the boat on. The bladder inflates in just a couple few minutes. Each bladder has an internal bladder section inside that you pump up during initial install. It forms two "rails" in the two side bladders that, when the main (side) bladders are deflated, is supposed to help center your boat when docking it. It takes some adjustment but once you have it at the right inflation, the boat does generally center itself. There have been several times that I have put the boat on the lift, inflated it and then deflated it and re-centered the boat because it was off kilter. Again, when inflated, the ropes to the air dock must be loose and not bearing weight. Ken, the owner, does a good job supporting his customers with parts, patches, etc. We've never had a problem with holes or punctures...the bladder is VERY strong. The only issue we've had is with a couple rings coming off (due to the weights hanging from the rear ones) and the hinge area patch. Ken sells kits complete with MEK, glue, ring patches, etc. Nice guy and generally a great product....just a bit quirky but once you get used to it, it works like a champ! Hope this helps! Regards, Dave |
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Dave B.
Our 1992 Sport Nautique |
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