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Complete (novice, newbie, idiot) winterization

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tlembke View Drop Down
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    Posted: November-18-2010 at 8:59pm
For you pro's out there, forgive me...I am not a gear head and do not "know my way around an engine". I am however someone that is wanting to learn the basics and am going to start this year.

**I have owned boats for quite a while, but this is my first true inboard**

I recently purchased a 2006 SV211 w/ a PCM Excalibur 330 engine (GM). I need to winterize asap and I am determined to do so myself. I have scoured the internet and have found many threads and instructions on what to do...but unfortunately there are not pictures to accompany most threads. This forum seemed to be quite helpful with people so I figured I would give this one a shot. PLEASE HELP WITH THE FOLLOWING!!!

1. What tools will I need to drain the manifolds, block, transmission cooler, and appropriate hoses.

2. Are the exhaust manifold drains on this engine the VERY large brass screw in bolts? They are BIG.

3. Is the "knock sensor" attached to the bolt on one side of the engine or is that something I will have to remove seperately?

4. Where in the world is the "transmission and engine cooler plug"

5. What is the V-Drive plug and where will do I find it?

As you can see, I am a complete novice...but I want to learn and I want to do it right. Any help, suggestions, pictures etc.. would be greatly appreciated. Please don't beat up on me too much...I understand the risks, I have spent many hours reading forums etc...so it is not as if I just turned the computer on and didn't try and figure this out before I posted on here.

Thanks in advance for ANY and ALL help.

tlembke
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tlembke View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote tlembke Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: November-18-2010 at 9:01pm
I forgot to mention... I don't need guidance on oil changes, fuel stabilizer, fogging, etc...my big issue is figuring out exactly which plugs need to come out, which hoses need to come off, and their exact location.

Thanks again
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tlembke View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote tlembke Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: November-19-2010 at 1:06am
I'm pretty sure nobody is going to take the time to give me all the info I need.

If someone would be kind enough to give me a tool list I would appreciate it. I have no idea if the drain plugs require a standard wrench or a hex wrench.

From what I've been able to see on my engine...there are two very large brass bolts on the back of the manifolds that will need to come out. And on the starboard side of the engine block it appears to be a hex wrench style bolt/plug. Does this sound correct? Is the one on the port side in the same location? Same size?
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eric lavine View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote eric lavine Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: November-19-2010 at 9:23am
a basic set of hand tools will get you the tools you need, there is always a drain on each side of the manifold and always a drain on each side of the block, those 4 are the most important and the minimum to save cracking a block.
you can go 2 ways, 1. run the engine drain it and suck antifreeze thru the rwp or simply drain it and fill the big hose going to the water pump with 2 gallons of A/F and 1 gallon into the riser/manifold hoses.
these are methods and may be criticized and everyone is entitled to their opinions. these sre minimums to keep the block from cracking, at that point you can decide on the fogging by running it and stalling the engine or pull each spark plug and spry fog oil into them.
note, some manifolds (osco) will only have the big plug on the ends but for the most part 90% will have bottem drains
"the things you own will start to own you"
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eric lavine View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote eric lavine Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: November-19-2010 at 9:25am
remember, water is heavier than air, so look at your trans cooler and decide if it needs to be drained, if it is vertical you dont need to drain it
"the things you own will start to own you"
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eric lavine View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote eric lavine Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: November-19-2010 at 9:30am
I went back and noticed you to have a v-drive, there are also drains on the case at the top to remove water, once the water is removed it to needs A/F and at this point I feel the best way to go on your boat is run it, drain it, and suck A/F thru the pick hose, I believe there are 2 plugs on the v-drive
"the things you own will start to own you"
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote quinner Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: November-19-2010 at 11:07am
The manifold drain bolts are big, 1 1/4" IIRC. Block has 2 plugs, probably a hex on the starboard side you mentioned unless you have a shower, the knock sensor will be in the port side drain, you will need to remove the electrical connection, squeeze it and it comes right off, then remove the knock sensor - when you re-install sensor do not use Teflon and torque as specified or just snug it up tight-medium pressure. You will also find a brass drain plug in the front lower red cast hose. Other items to consider - do you have a shower or heater.
Do some more reading as this should all be outlined on previous threads including all the additional items not noted like draining the FCC & Gateway box pitot connections, lubing rudder via Zerk fitting, fogging cylinders, treating gas, etc. etc.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote WakeSlayer Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: November-19-2010 at 2:15pm
9/16 wrench, large crescent wrench, 5/16" nut driver. After draining the above mentioned plugs, remove the hose from the output side of the strainer, clamp a short piece of heater hose or a cut off male end of a garden hose. PUt that in a bucket with 4 gallons of RV AF. Start the motor and run til the bucket is empty. Add a fifth gallon if you want extra insurance.   Make sure you dump the water out of your strainer, too.   
To unwinterize in the Spring, clamp a garden hose in the same spot, turn on the faucet, and run til exhaust water is clear. You can use a bucket of water with the hose running into that to verify pump is pulling water in.   
If you just got the boat, you may want to swap the impeller just so you have a known good starting point. Inspect that annually, and keep a spare in the boat.
Mike N

1968 Mustang





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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Bri892001 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: November-21-2010 at 2:50pm
In answer to your .4), I know with the direct drives, a lot of guys say to skip taking out the transmission cooler plug, and just undo the hoses at either end. I guess it's too hard (and not worth it) to get this plug out without damaging the tranny cooler.

I believe the steps Quinner mentions above make it unnecessarily anyway. As his method would have antifreeze running through there anyway.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote tlembke Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: November-22-2010 at 4:51pm
For those of you that responded...THANK YOU very much. I think I got it taken care of yesterday. Here is what I did, if anyone sees anything I missed as far as draining goes please let me know.

1. BLOCK (BOTH PLUGS)
2. MANIFOLDS (BOTH PLUGS)
3. ENGINE CIRCULATING PUMP ON FRONT SIDE OF ENGINE (1 PLUG)
4. PULLED HOSE ON INLET SIDE OF SEAWATER PUMP
5. WALTER V DRIVE (TWO PLUGS, ONE ON FRONT AND ONE ON BACK)

DID I MISS ANYTHING??
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