302 teardown

TRBenj wrote: a quick jiggle of the throttle (button in so it actually moves the trans cable) will usually clear it up.

Thats exactly what I had to do. I remembered reading a couple posts about it a while back. I think Alan gave a nice description of how to properly troubleshoot problems with the throttle cable.

I'm planning on taking the Morse Control off anyway to clean it up while I wait for the motor. I'll also be replacing both cables as I found a pretty nasty wear on the throttle cable.

EDIT- Any chance this had something to do with the trans feeling like it wasn't fully engaged while at idle?

Great info guys. This is a no brainer for the rebuild process.

One other issue I was having was with starting....

At certain times when attempting to start, the boat would act like the transmission was engaged although the throttle was in the neutral position. It would not start unless I moved the throttle just a touch with the button pushed in. I'm not talking major movements, just a simple touch of the throttle.

At first I thought the problem would have been in the Morse Control, but the button had to be pushed in while I moved the throttle to engage the ignition. It seems as if the boat wasn't sitting in neutral and when I touched the throttle it would dis-engage and allow the boat to start. Once running, everything acted normal and performed as it should.

Any ideas? I'm thinking it has to be a setting on the trans?

Hey! Thanks for the info. I wonder why both Indmar and PCM as well as DIM sells their drive plates for so much? even to us dealers. Wonder what the service load rating is on these plates are? maybe that is why PCM/Indmar and DIM are getting so much for them. Or could be the gold content!

Fl Inboards wrote: TRBenj wrote:     I would replace the damper while youre in there- its easy and cheap ($70). Where can I get a $70 damper plate? Will buy as many as I can. DIM has them for $175.00 BW/Ford 302/351 Florida Inboards price $168.70, In Stock!

Jody,
Chris's boat has a Velvet so the standard off the shelf Sachs plate can be used and is less that $100. Mer Equipment as well as Eric is a good retail source. With a PCM trans, you're screwed since you are stuck with their plate!! BTW, the Sachs plate is better built too!!

storm34 wrote: What color did you go with for the 'original' blue. Mine had been repainted a darker blue at some point by the PO.

Chris, I cant see the pics here at work but going from memory, I believe your engine is the original color. The early PCM/Waukeshas with the green manifolds had very dark blue blocks. Much darker than the Ford Blue Interceptors.

I would replace the damper while youre in there- its easy and cheap ($70). I wouldnt bother cracking open the transmission unless you were having issues with it- there isnt much you can do, short of a full rebuild.

eric lavine wrote: dont let them tell you, let them show you

Will do Eric. I was told they will take pictures or call and I can come into the shop if I am in town. They did a heck of a job on my buddies 318, giving him updates through the whole process.

Keegan, I made sure to leave mine at home...but please post a pic and let me know how they turn out. I may have to freshen mine up when I put it all back together. What color did you go with for the 'original' blue. Mine had been repainted a darker blue at some point by the PO.

dont let them tell you, let them show you

horkn wrote: I personally couldn't stand the sight of the nasty green exhaust manifolds.

Don't tell Keegan and Marty that!


Motor gets loaded up and taken to the shop tomorrow!

Merry Christmas guys! Got some time to work on the Ski Tique today with my Big Brother home from New York. We decided it was time to pull the motor and get the trans separated from the block.

I'll hopefully be able to get it loaded up and drag it into the Shop to find the diagnosis. I've been asking a few people here plenty of questions along the way so I thought I would share some pictures and a quick video of the pull.

Gotta cut us some slack, it was the first time we'd pulled a motor so forgive me for the shift after the initial lift. We were cutting it pretty close to the Dist. but cleared everything and it sitting on a cradle ready to go!

Ben is in the boat and I'm driving the Bobcat.




Some pictures, in reverse order.

storm34 wrote: Keeganino wrote: Chris I have been watching this thread closely since I also have a 302. That's one helluva tick! I am sure you will have it in top shape for next season and am looking forward to the results. Thanks Keegan! We're hoping it will be running pretty quick in the spring! I'll be sure not to let the guys paint my manifolds black either!

Yep you gotta watch those guys. Marty got me a can of paint that looks right. Hot Rod Green I think is the name. I need to pull them off and repaint them the right color. Of course my block and trans were painted old ford blue which is not the right color either. The waukesha blue is almost a navy.

Eric, I did try to pull each wire....even ran it in the dark to make sure it wasn't my wires. Jon is pretty sure it's something lower in the motor. When I took it to my old man's marine guy they said the same and quoted me 4,500 to rebuild and couldn't guarantee it would be done before the end of the summer....I decided to pull it myself and take it to Jon.

Chris I have been watching this thread closely since I also have a 302. That's one helluva tick! I am sure you will have it in top shape for next season and am looking forward to the results.

the only reason i caught it was because i had the engine flipped and pan off and was rotating and just happen to see the piston kick at bdc

Thanks Jon, I actually used a buffer pad I had laying around the shop to cover everything up. Fits right between the mounting bolts for the carb!

These last few posts are the reasons I bring stuff up here!

The guy I'm working (Jon) with seems to be a great guy. He rebuilt a buddies 318 for a southwind and did a hell of a job. Jeff (my buddy) would get a few calls every week to discuss progress and what he wanted to do next. He was always working with Jeff to make sure they had the correct parts sourced and was always open to discussing what he was doing. It's nice to find someone who has a true passion for what they do and not treat you like you're a number walking through their door.

Eric- Jon is going to find the source of the tick first and then help me decide what our best option is. If the crank is trashed- we will look into stroking. If it's something less severe we will fix it and put it back together. Either way, he will make sure I know what's going on before they make any decisions.

Photo's from last night after pulling a few more items: