Transmission Leak

Hi,

I had to replace my driveshaft on a 1989 Ski Nautique. A workshop removed the old shaft (single taper), and since then, I see there is a oil leak near the flange on the transmission (1.23:1 transmission). I haven't used the boat yet - I am busy installing the new shaft.

I think the original coupling was difficult to remove from the shaft - they used a spacer between the shaft and transmisison flange, and bolts between the to couplings, and torqued the bolts, and tapped with a hammer to remove - took along time!

I wonder if the transmission flange oil seal is dislodged by the hammering? Is this possible?

Any ideas? Should I try run the boat, and check if the leak goes away? Or just replace the seal anyway? I hope they didn't damage anything else :(

Thanks,
Greg

8122pbrainard wrote: Greg, The "tapping" with a hammer will not dislodge a seal. Most likely it was bad before that. Are you sure it's the seal and not the trans bearing retainer gasket? Ether way, now's a good time to replace both. You should also check the condition of the trans output bearing. Do you know how good the alignment was before they pulled the shaft? BTW, The heat shrink/press fit is normal on the shaft to coupling. They are not fun to remove most of the time. The spacer and long bolt "trick" is normal.

Hi,

The were hitting pretty hard! I wasn't happy with how rough they were, but they have worked on many boats like mine.

I haven't checked exactly were the leak is - it is behind the flange - I'll check 100% later today.

Where is the "bearing retainer gasket"? Is it something I can replace without removing the transmission?

Also, does anyone know how I can remove the flange - won't it turn when I remove the nut?

Thanks for the help,
Greg

Greg,
Now that you mentioned they were hitting the coupling half pretty hard, I suggest pressing the coupling half onto the new shaft and chucking the shaft up in a lathe. Take a real light cut on the coupling face so you know the face runs true with the shaft. Don't forget the shaft is a .000 to -.001 fit so the new shaft needs to be checked to the bore of the old coupling.

eric lavine wrote: I'll do my good deed for the week, pull the back off and UPS it to me, i'll replace the seal and face the coupling, just pay the shipping

Eric,
Greg's in South Africa!!!!!! You better offer that good deed for the week to someone else.

Greg_SA wrote: Do you think it is a bad idea to try give the boat a run first? I will make sure the fluid is topped up, and check regularly? If I need new seals, I will have to order them fist (from Skidim).

Greg, You can run it as long as the leak isn't bad, you keep a eye on the fluid level and you don't mind some oil in the bilge.

Considering your location, do you need to go to Skidim for parts? You certainly should have a PCM distributor over there! If not, the bearing and seal are off the shelf power tranmission items. The gasket can be cut by hand!!!

Greg_SA wrote: very few places carry any parts. Most people use boats with outboard engines. Any ideas what could be causing the leak? Would the gasket / oil seal kit on Skidim be all that I need? RK173058 ? http://www.skidim.com/prodinfo.asp?number=RK173058 Greg

Greg,
It's the seal but do check the trans output bearing condition.

8122pbrainard wrote: the bearing and seal are off the shelf power tranmission items. The gasket can be cut by hand!!!

rust, contamination, probably is the culprit, Pete, Ive tried sourcing the seals with not much luck, oddball metric size. there is no gasket except for a o-ring on the seal flange and you would use silicone between housings, yes silicone, As you can see the 36mm nut is staked and you have to be careful to not knick the threads on removal, also if you notice you do need slicone under the nut washer because they do have a tendency to leak between the splines.
DIM is a good source for these parts, I tried sourcing this stuff direct from ZF, also with no luck.

Eric,
Besides ZF, where else have you been looking for the seals? BTW, even here in "inch" land, a metric seal is getting to be more common than a inch.

Do you have the seal #? I'll give my bearing house a call.

I'm OK with the silicone on this one - it's between two faces!!

I'll grab the number at work, cause PCM is getting all the money for the seal and gasket kits

Hi Eric / Pete,

Thanks very much for all the help. I have noted all your advice. I think I'll replace the shaft nut with a new one too - I'd rather damage the nut than the shaft during removal.

Maybe I can obtain the seal locally using the seal number? Are these things generic?

Excellent, thanks.

In the diagram below, to replace the seal (#102), do I need to remove the retainer (#104) as well?

Also, is there a trick to stop the shaft/flange turning when remove the nut? Grip the flange in a vice?

i grab gear and hit the nut with an air impact

Excellent, thanks for the info. I will also try to source the seal locally.

So I assume I should also replace the o-ring (item #107) as well, if I must remove the retainer (item #104)?

i believe its a single lip, and quite possible that it is Viton, no bore tite on the OD....let me make sure, because i would think it should be a double lip...the o-ring is static, so you can if not hard use it over...sorry that i called you Gary once, greg,
actually there are also shims on the bearing, no problem though, just keep them together

DOUBLE LIP