First Oil Change

I currently run the vr-1 20w50 BUT would like to try a 10w40. I think the 20 is too much at cold start and I'd like to see if there is any noticable change with a lighter weight blend.

What are my options in a 10w40 with adequate ZDDP?

I run straight 40 on mine.

Castrol GTX Diesel 15w-40

I really don't know how easily available it is, but probably what I'll look to once I run out of 20w-50 VR$.

Hollywood wrote: I drained over 8 quarts from a PCM 351 last year. I'm thinking this may have been a reason the boat only ran 34 mph.

A fresh 5 quarts and it's back to 43 mph. Double your oil and you'll definitely slow down.

81nautique wrote: Luchog wrote: I run straight 40 on mine. Thats not the direction I want to go so I'm going to try a 10w40 with additive. I want to get away from the 50wt for top end but need to 10 at start up. I run a high volume oil pump and I suspect it's holding me back so this is really just a comparative test.

Alan, I did not meant that post to you, just wanted to share my side of the story.

I think we should agree that a SAE40 or 15w40 oil is the base oil for these engines, then you should consider engine condition and operating temperature where the boat is located.

what additive would you add? most guys here dont like them, down here this one is quite popular:

MPC

MPC test

merbesfield wrote: What always confuses me is if these additives are so great, why don't the oil manufacturers put it in their oils?

Mark,
They do use plenty of additives in their oils but the one we are always concerned about most is the ZDDP for our flat tappets. It's the ZDDP that the EPA has regulated to the point of removal in some oil products.

Alan,
You could get the stock pump back in, pick up the lost HP and get some more WOT speed!!! Don't worry about it - many have made the mistake thinking a high volume pump would be better.

8122pbrainard wrote: Alan, You could get the stock pump back in, pick up the lost HP and get some more WOT speed!!! Don't worry about it - many have made the mistake thinking a high volume pump would be better.

Next time I pull the motor to clean the bilge Pete!!

I am 3/10 off of 55mph and it's killing me LOL. Once I finish working on the Wood boat I'll get back on my quest for speed and the 81 will be going under the knife for a winter.

Alan, what is the issue with the high volume pump?

Riley wrote: Alan, what is the issue with the high volume pump?

Bruce,
Alan's probably out running the silk screen machine and may not get back until lunch? so, I'll throw a few things in here. (he will too I'm sure). The high volume pumps need more HP since they pump more oil and it's not needed on a regular engine. It's just a waste of HP. I understand that many race car engines use them but they are intentionally built with some losser bearing fits. Also, way back it was common to stick a high volume pump in as a "band aid" on high milage worn out engines.

Riley wrote:    Sounds like it's not a serious problem for Alan .

it's not really a problem at all I would just like to change it out, always looking for the right mix of parts to improve performance. I don't consider it a mistake, it runs fine as is I just can't leave things alone if there might be a better option. I would like to change my cam also, the cam was a choice made from a recommendation of a pro but it's not really ideal. Actually when I pull the boat apart in a few years this motor will probably not go back in it.

Pull the boat apart? It looked and ran about perfect to me when I saw it.

Enough with the oil weight debate. Can someone please post the oil filter no. and possibly the NAPA Oil filter no.? Does NAPA sell any other parts that I should grab when I head to the lake tomorrow? Thanks

Bri892001 wrote: There is a Wix version, I believe it's the 1515. I've heard guys mention a Napa Gold version as well, so it definitely exists, I don't know the number on that one.

Napa Gold is #1515 and I believe still made by Wix. Presumably one of the better filters out there.

The Windsor series Ford motors that have been discussed, all use a rather small oil pump drive shaft. If you've never been inside one, they are not much larger than the #2 yellow pencil my kids do their homework with. Personally, I've always thought that was a little light duty for an oil pump drive shaft. As much as I believe that part design is under-sized ,the sheer volume of them still on the road, and working just fine certainly rebuts my personal opinion.

That being said, thicker viscosity oils, or a higher volume pump will place a higher stress on this little part,

For those reasons, and the fact that our engines run a little cooler than the automotive applications, I prefer a lighter viscosity oil. Various oil ingredients are there for all kinds of reasons, and the EPA has done wonders to make lubricants worse, all in the name of preservation. While still available, single-vis oils are not as common as they once were. You can easily find a variety of multi-vis oils on any parts house shelf, and pick your pleasure.

As far as aftermarket additives go, I'm a HUGE fan of the old Bardahl EP additive, but sadly, I can't get it anymore, even if I go to the factory in Seattle and beg. So, my #2 is Hilton Hyper Lube, but as that is rather thick, I compensate with an even lighter base oil. Recently, I've gone with 2 qts 5-30, 2 qts 0-30, and 1 qt HyperLube, and my engine has loved it so far.

PE

I agree, how do you know your engine Loves it. My recommendation is run Amsoil they have two marine oils either one will be great. I have been running it for years. Read their reports and test. If someone made a better oil I would run it. I also use their oil filters. People will spend thousands on a boat or engine and skimp on cheap oil and filters. In some parts of the country where summer is short it could ruin your season. Good luck