Added New Dash Ground to 93 with Pics |
Post Reply | Page <1234> |
Author | |
Bri892001
Grand Poobah Joined: September-27-2008 Location: Boston MA Status: Offline Points: 4945 |
Post Options
Thanks(0)
|
Adding a couple pics of proposed positive side upgrade:
Here a couple pics of the current positive daisy chained positive going to the inputs of all the breaker switches: Some of the black wires you see are grounds running past and some go to those little led lights that illuminate when the breakers are on. Those little indicator lights just use black wire for some reason. |
|
Bri892001
Grand Poobah Joined: September-27-2008 Location: Boston MA Status: Offline Points: 4945 |
Post Options
Thanks(0)
|
Holding my blank bus bar in front of the breaker switches for visualization:
|
|
Bri892001
Grand Poobah Joined: September-27-2008 Location: Boston MA Status: Offline Points: 4945 |
Post Options
Thanks(0)
|
When I lift up my dash pod, there is this little shelf like area that is part of the hard fiberglass behind the pod. The bus can sit in there as one place to put it:
|
|
Bri892001
Grand Poobah Joined: September-27-2008 Location: Boston MA Status: Offline Points: 4945 |
Post Options
Thanks(0)
|
Starting to build my positive bus bar:
|
|
Bri892001
Grand Poobah Joined: September-27-2008 Location: Boston MA Status: Offline Points: 4945 |
Post Options
Thanks(0)
|
|
|
Bri892001
Grand Poobah Joined: September-27-2008 Location: Boston MA Status: Offline Points: 4945 |
Post Options
Thanks(0)
|
|
|
TX Foilhead
Grand Poobah Joined: February-01-2009 Location: Kingsland TX Status: Offline Points: 2076 |
Post Options
Thanks(0)
|
I stuck mine to the flat part of the dash just above that spot with double sided tape, and doubled the wires on each screw so that I could have a ground on one side. That way you can flip the dash without having to unhook things.
|
|
desertskier
Platinum Member Joined: December-19-2006 Location: Az Status: Offline Points: 1114 |
Post Options
Thanks(0)
|
With all the wiring problems these boats have this post deserves to be kept bumped up. How did you run the additional positive? From the 50 Amp breaker at the engine? |
|
Bri892001
Grand Poobah Joined: September-27-2008 Location: Boston MA Status: Offline Points: 4945 |
Post Options
Thanks(0)
|
Yup, I used the 50 amp breaker. There was just enough thread on the stud to catch a second ring terminal. I can grab a pic of that side when I get a chance.
|
|
Bri892001
Grand Poobah Joined: September-27-2008 Location: Boston MA Status: Offline Points: 4945 |
Post Options
Thanks(0)
|
Here are some updates with the positive bus bar I added to the dash recently.
|
|
Bri892001
Grand Poobah Joined: September-27-2008 Location: Boston MA Status: Offline Points: 4945 |
Post Options
Thanks(0)
|
|
|
Bri892001
Grand Poobah Joined: September-27-2008 Location: Boston MA Status: Offline Points: 4945 |
Post Options
Thanks(0)
|
My text added to the picture didn't really show up. This is where I start to one at at time connect the wires to the ignition breaker output and the various other breaker, key and horn inputs. When I get them all, I then fasten to the bus bar.
|
|
spiralhelix
Senior Member Joined: August-06-2014 Location: IL/WI Status: Offline Points: 496 |
Post Options
Thanks(0)
|
Thought I would share my dash wiring on this dash wiring post. I added a 12 circuit fuse block and a 6 circuit terminal strip. The terminal strip has jumpers connecting each of the posts. I would have preferred a bus bar, but i could get the terminal strip locally. The three modifications comparing the diagram to the photos, I changed the main power to the fuse block from 14 to 10 gauge, the Pump/Auto went from 10 amps to 25 amps (per the specs of the switch), and i rearranged the locations of the grounds. The diagram is the current state. I left all the dash grounds original as they were all soldiered and sealed. Why mess with a working connection
Let me know if you think i should change anything. |
|
8122pbrainard
Grand Poobah Joined: September-14-2006 Location: Three Lakes Wi. Status: Offline Points: 41040 |
Post Options
Thanks(0)
|
Colin, The upgrade looks great. I hope you used marine grade wire like Brian did. I also like to see heat shrink adhesive lined crimp connections. They and the marine wire really pay off in the long run. |
|
Bri892001
Grand Poobah Joined: September-27-2008 Location: Boston MA Status: Offline Points: 4945 |
Post Options
Thanks(0)
|
Looks like great work
|
|
spiralhelix
Senior Member Joined: August-06-2014 Location: IL/WI Status: Offline Points: 496 |
Post Options
Thanks(0)
|
Pete,
Thanks! Unfortunately I did not use marine wire or heat shrink ends. I understand the risk of corrosion, so I took the steps to at least soldier all the ends along with crimping. Where two wires were joined, I did soldier and heat shrink those connections (no butt splices). I am really happy knowing that if a component stops working, it could be a blown fuse before expecting the worst or having the rest of the system inoperable. Colin |
|
Bri892001
Grand Poobah Joined: September-27-2008 Location: Boston MA Status: Offline Points: 4945 |
Post Options
Thanks(0)
|
The fuse block is definitely a nice addition. Seems like the fuses are a nice first line of defense, rather than strictly relying on the breaker switches.
|
|
phatsat67
Grand Poobah Joined: March-13-2006 Location: Indiana Status: Offline Points: 6147 |
Post Options
Thanks(0)
|
Good write up sir. Honestly, basically every boat 99 and older probably needs to have a modification like this done. While my engine is out I plan on running additional ground/power wires to the front.
|
|
spiralhelix
Senior Member Joined: August-06-2014 Location: IL/WI Status: Offline Points: 496 |
Post Options
Thanks(0)
|
I will admit, I did mess up when ordering the fuse block. I meant to get the one with the negative bus included and ordered the one without.
Here are the links to the four with the negative bus bars: 6 Circuit Fuse Block w/ Neg Bus with cover 5025 12 Curcuit Fuse Block with Neg Bus with cover 5026 6 Circuit Fuse Block w/ Neg bus no cover 5030 12 Circuit Fuse Block w/ Neg Bus no cover 5031 |
|
spiralhelix
Senior Member Joined: August-06-2014 Location: IL/WI Status: Offline Points: 496 |
Post Options
Thanks(0)
|
Well you know what they say, You learn something new everyday! Not that I ever doubted anyone, but Pete's comment about the connectors made me think. I learned basic crimping from my father...how could he be wrong, right? So off to google and lots of reading, i read some pretty good articles. I'm posting these so there is a reference for the next person doing this so they can make an informed decision when deciding how they want to land their connections.
General Explaination of Crimping Anatomy of a good connection NASA Standards My take away, i have done everything WRONG! lol Especially my theory of soldering the ends to prevent corrosion. But, thankfully, my boat is not an aircraft or spaceship and the likelihood of my connections leading to death are super duper remote. In fact, not to be morbid, but risk of death on my boat would be higher with other activities such as skiing, barefooting, or wakeboarding. I totally get the vibration and moisture aspect of a boat leading to premature wire/terminal failure. However, seeing how the dash was wired by CC in '89 (26 years ago) and those connections are still holding true today, not using marine-adhesive lined-heat shrink connectors is not the worst idea. The worst idea is just using masking tape or super glue to make connections. If home depot connectors last 15, 10, or only 5 years is that really a bad thing if you have the capability to redo the connections (or the $$ to have someone do it)? I'm not advocating using cheap connectors, in fact, i will probably swallow hard and spend the money on the right ones. But i'd rather someone enjoy the water with inexpensive connectors then sell the boat because they can't afford marine/aircraft grade parts. -Spiral |
|
Bri892001
Grand Poobah Joined: September-27-2008 Location: Boston MA Status: Offline Points: 4945 |
Post Options
Thanks(0)
|
I wouldn't lose sleep over it. If you've soldered over the crimp, I can't imagine that's hurting anything. May not necessary but certainly not harmful.
The main reason I didn't use solder is because of my own clumsiness. I used to solder some car stereo stuff; I was very adept at poking holes in my car's vinyl plastic console with a hot soldering iron and dripping molten solder onto my carpet. From then on, the only soldering I did was to connect a Crutchfield quick plug factory adapters to the stereo itself, but only on a bench. Soldering on a desk/bench is way easier than trying to free hand. |
|
Gary S
Grand Poobah Joined: November-30-2006 Location: Illinois Status: Offline Points: 14096 |
Post Options
Thanks(0)
|
I have not checked Home Depot here up north but in Florida they sell the good adhesive plated connectors for a reasonable price. As soon as I get a chance I'll check them out
|
|
spiralhelix
Senior Member Joined: August-06-2014 Location: IL/WI Status: Offline Points: 496 |
Post Options
Thanks(0)
|
Gary, I might have been a bit flippant with using Home Depot. I should have said "big box store". We have a Farm & Fleet and a Menards. Menards has every cheap connector imaginable and very limited heat shrink only connectors. Farm & Fleet did have the adhesive lined heat shrink , but like $8 for 6. At the time that was tough to swallow and they only have ring terminals like that in store. In that first article post, the author states he gets his connectors for $70 qty 100. At least that is less than $1 per connector. Though I shop online a lot, there is something nice about working on a project and being able to get more parts locally if I can. I wish there was a larger marine presence her to have someone stock the right parts.
I think the articles were more eye opening to me and I wish i had read them before i started the project. I just didn't know any better or what I should have been looking for. Now I do and I hope that others will educate themselves as well. |
|
TimF
Newbie Joined: August-31-2015 Location: E. Lansing, MI Status: Offline Points: 6 |
Post Options
Thanks(0)
|
Hi. I'm new to the forum. I have a 93' SN and have been meaning to solve some electrical issues First I want to add a new ground to the dash. The picture shows my original ground with 3 other wires but-spliced into it. Can I just run the new ground and get rid of the old ground wire then but-splice the same 3 wires into the new ground or is there some benefit to keeping the old ground in the system? I am not great with electricity but am trying to learn.
Thanks, Tim |
|
Bri892001
Grand Poobah Joined: September-27-2008 Location: Boston MA Status: Offline Points: 4945 |
Post Options
Thanks(0)
|
That's a perfect situation for a ground bus. Something like this:
http://www.westmarine.com/buy/blue-sea-systems--minibus-100a-bus-bar--P009_273_004_008 Technically, leaving the old ground in place isn't adding anything, but it isn't hurting anything either. I left mine alone, and just added the new. The bus bar lets you tie everything together, and get good solid connections. Splicing like you show, was just kind of done for cost savings, but if you're doing new work, it's not the best way to go. |
|
TimF
Newbie Joined: August-31-2015 Location: E. Lansing, MI Status: Offline Points: 6 |
Post Options
Thanks(0)
|
Your project looks like the way to go but don't think I'm ready for that this year. Some planning over the Winter and next Spring probably. I'm going to pull the old ground so I don't have to wire it.
|
|
desertskier
Platinum Member Joined: December-19-2006 Location: Az Status: Offline Points: 1114 |
Post Options
Thanks(0)
|
I would keep it simple and just splice in the additional ground wire. Extra copper doesn't hurt anything. Is there a specific problem you are trying to fix?
|
|
spiralhelix
Senior Member Joined: August-06-2014 Location: IL/WI Status: Offline Points: 496 |
Post Options
Thanks(0)
|
+1 The bus not only provides better connections and eliminates potential issues (aids in troubleshooting), it allows for quicker and cleaner additions to the system if need be. Just follow what Brian has laid out with increased gauge marine wire and adhesive lined heat shrink ends. With all the parts at the ready, shouldn't take more than an hour or two. If a cocktail is involved...2.5 hours |
|
TimF
Newbie Joined: August-31-2015 Location: E. Lansing, MI Status: Offline Points: 6 |
Post Options
Thanks(0)
|
It seems to be the usual on these boats. Voltage drops when turning on several things at at time such as blower and bilge. Turning the lights on last trip really dropped the Also seems like I can't run my stereo unless the boat is running or I get low voltage. The battery is good but I need to check the alternator and all the gauges. The better ground seems like a good starting point.
|
|
desertskier
Platinum Member Joined: December-19-2006 Location: Az Status: Offline Points: 1114 |
Post Options
Thanks(0)
|
Adding a buss bar for all the dash grounds is a nice idea and if you have the time and skills I would go ahead and add one but it is really not necessary and it doesn't address the other half of the problem which is the positive side. I ran a second ground wire and positive wire from the engine to the dash and then added a single positive wire from the output of the ignition breaker to the input of the key switch. I did this about 15 years ago and haven't touched it since. Connect the second positive wire to the 50 Amp breaker on the engine.
|
|
Post Reply | Page <1234> |
Tweet
|
Forum Jump | Forum Permissions You cannot post new topics in this forum You cannot reply to topics in this forum You cannot delete your posts in this forum You cannot edit your posts in this forum You cannot create polls in this forum You cannot vote in polls in this forum |