gas in oil

How long did you crank it? You could have flooded it by cranking or it could be a Carb problem. Change the oil and filter and find the cause of the extended cranking. If you still have trouble check the carb.

uh well there was quite a bit of cranking. I did get a new battery, the biggest one I could fit in the well. 800 cold cranking amps, in all the cranking I think we burnt up the solenoid. So I got a new one of those (it wouldnt stop cranking) had to yank battery. I also got new spark plugs just because why not, The oil has been draining overnight and I will put new in today.
What really worried me about the carb was obviously the gas in the oil but also the gas laying on the head, it was in the back of carburetor the secondary side. How could it be leaking out? I have all new gaskets, could I have overtightened the screws on the bowls and cracked something? Its hard to say where exactly it leaked from, there was some laying the gasket between the carb and the head.
Could we have cranked so much it overflowed down into the oil and there is nothing wrong with the floats? I really think the lack of starting initially was from the battery, it was from walmart, so no surprise low quality and I took it to a very respectable mobile electric place (not a chain store) and they said it was not right and a cheap battery.

That white thing sounds like the ballast resistor are you running points? If the float in the carb sticks open it will cause severe flooding.

yes, running points. All original equipment, its an 86. The boat ramp was kind of steep could it have run out the aircleaner somehow if the float was stuck open or something?
Signal flow to the starter and points is correct the only thing I havent checked is the plug wires but I think I probably have spark, I think the problems are fuel air related on not starting. The float thing scares me because obviously that could trash my engine. Thats a big problem. So I am still waiting to hear back from the carburetor guy. The rebuild kit I used had some gaskets that werent exactly the same as what was in it. I got it from NAPA and it was for a 600cfm holley marine. It seemed like it was blocking a few of the vacuum holes though. Thats why I took it in.

The 5.7 on the coil side of the ballast resistor is on the low side. You should check to make sure it's the correct one. Yes, with a point set, you do not feed the nominal 12 coil. Nominal 12 to the resistor and you should get 8 to 9 out the other side to the coil.

Jllogan wrote: no I didnt get a deepcycle but the everstart that was on there was a deep cycle. I tested the cables for volts and they seemed good, should I test for ohms/amps or because the voltage checks out that eliminates the scenario you mentioned (ohms law etc.)

Volts under load (when cranking) to the starter will give you a idea of the voltage drop. Compare it to what you have at the battery when cranking. The OEM cables are notoriously undersized and cheap non tinned and non marine rated. It wouldn't be a bad idea to put a new set in. There's a couple recent threads on the subject.

The deep cycle was a problem!!!

ya, that may be good advice. I know a place that can make me a set, same place I got my battery/alternator/starter checked out.
I didnt get a deep cycle but just out of curiousity why wouldnt I want one. I guess I dont really understand the difference. There was a deep cycle on there maybe thats why it crapped out and I had issues. It was a fairly new battery 04/2010.

Nautiquehunter wrote: I wouldnt worry about trashing the engine gas in the oil will eventually ruin bearings. I would be more worried about fire. Rebuild kits fit multiple carbs you should always lay the old gaskets on top of the new gaskets and make sure all the holes line up. Get the carb back and see where you are at. If you need more help just call me and I will walk you through it. 219-712-5060

Ya, thanks so much for help/advice. I think there was something wrong with that carb kit. Two of those gaskets were not the same and I should have not put it on. I did what you said about comparing the gaskets and noticed. What I did was poke two holes where the vacuum lines where blocked but maybe there was other issues I didnt notice. It was the vacuum lines where the mix adjustments where on the bowls. I thought, that seems strange better open those up. Who knows what else could be the issue. I didnt mess with the floats or rebuild them so maybe they need attention. I just hope I didnt crack something or cause major damage in the carb. I dont want to pay 500 for a new one. Ill let you know when I get the carb back or talk with the mechanic to see what he thinks.

Deep cycle batteries are designed to supply smaller amounts of power over longer periods of time. Starting batteries are designed to supply large amounts of power to the starter during cranking. I am not sure what all the battery and cable talk is . My understanding is you had no problem cranking witch would be a starting system problem[ battery,cables] I think you have a problem elsewhere.

Nautiquehunter wrote: I am not sure what all the battery and cable talk is . My understanding is you had no problem cranking witch would be a starting system problem[ battery,cables] I think you have a problem elsewhere.

Michael,
I'm talking cables/battery/connections trying to rule out a low voltage condition that would cause a weak spark/slow crank and hard starting.

He did state:

Jllogan wrote: when we got to the ramp the boat wouldnt turn over very well. Acted like a dead battery.

what guage wire you think I should get? Should I be sure to get marine grade wire or just make sure it is tinned copper? I see that jamestown distributors has cable you can buy to make your own, any thoughts on that?

Justin,
We also just had a thread a couple days ago that may help. Take a look at: Battery cables