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1984 Ski Nautique project

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ny_nautique View Drop Down
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    Posted: June-13-2011 at 2:25pm
Hi everyone,
I recently bought a 1984 (edited the post... at first I thought it was an 85) Ski Nautique and have been working on cleaning it up over the last few weeks. I've been reading the forums a lot and I have a friend who has gone through stringer replacement and pretty much everything else I want to do already.

Mechanically it seems fine but it needs a lot of TLC. This is not my first Nautique… I had a 1992 Sport Nautique from 1996-2001. I loved that boat and just recently started looking for another, really wanting an open bow. But, I found this one and knew of its potential for a nice wake and it was at a price I couldn’t refuse… so here I am.

The upholstery is in horrible shape. My plan is to do stringers, floor, carpeting, upholstery starting in February. Until then, I will make do with the seats as they are. I have cleaned up the hull the best I can with On & off and it really is a lot nicer.

I have some questions specifically for what I plan on doing the next few weeks:
•     How can I strip the blue accent paint from the hull? I want to get down to the gel coat (this is the version with the light blue gel coat).
•     How can I remove the stubborn registration stickers? I’ve been using a heat gun for the other stickers and pin striping but these are very tough. Same for the USA flag and Correct Craft stickers.
•     Suggestions on the best place to get a replacement rub rail.
•     Is this teak swim platform restorable? I’ve seen the threads with others that have redone theirs but mine seems to be worse. It just seems to have some really deep wear and a lot of cracked wood. Also missing one small piece.
•     Looking for suggestions on what color-matching gel coat patch to use.
•     I’m repainting the trailer also. Is there a specific color anyone has used to match that factory original blue?
•     Using the 3M marine rubbing compound, it really does shine up nice. But there are a few small cracks in the gel coat. What can I do to handle those… or do I just live with them?

Thanks in advance!
Jeff

Here it is before bringing it home. First thing was to get a new hub for the trailer:






In my garage, on the trailer. I have since taken it off the trailer and taken the swim platform off and it just fits.






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Jllogan View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Jllogan Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: June-13-2011 at 3:05pm
here is your rub rail, brace yourself on price
http://www.nautiqueparts.com/rubrail.aspx
You can take the old rope out and soak in bleach water, that really brightened mine up and is a good free solution.

As for your teak, it looks pretty bad, I used the starbrite teak resto kit and it worked well for the cleaning and bringing the color and shine back. As far as those cracks, I believe you could just replace the bad boards, looks like the one is on the underside so maybe you could live with that. I lightly sanded the top of mine to take off any rough spots or splintering then applied as the starbrite instructions suggested. There is a thred with some teak resto on it, I put my pics on there and many other people have discussed methods etc. Or save your money from the rub rail and get a new one from this site.

My decals came off with a combo of heat gun, plastic putty knife and rubbing alcohol. Still tedious but I put my wife to work on that.

Mine has many little cracks as well. I just sanded them down and polished with rubbing compound and you cant see them from 5 plus feet. The only way to repair is with gel coat patch.

I used the MAS gel coat patch system works good still hard to match colors. Remember it will dry lighter so make it touch darker when wet, I think they are most all that way.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 8122pbrainard Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: June-13-2011 at 3:14pm
Jeff,
First I'd like to welcome you to CCfan and next, is wow, you sure have a "project" boat on your hands!!

That Teak really looks bad. The ends even look like they are rotted. I've never seen one in that bad of shape - it's gone from the usual black mold to green!!! Pressure wash it (not too close or you'll chew up the wood) and see how it comes out. Then move on the the teak restoring kit if you feel it can be saved. Replacing just a few bad boards isn't the answer. They will never match the old.


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote TRBenj Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: June-13-2011 at 3:19pm
Nice looking boat- it appears that JoeinNY has an in-state twin! Your boat appears to be a '84, FYI- they gelled the stripes starting in '85.

For the stickers, find yourself an erasor wheel. They make attachments to go on drills and grinders- they make decal removal a cinch... way faster than solvents and scraping. Do get some adhesive remover (goof off, etc) for the final clean up though.

Hopefully youre not talking about removing the main blue stripes?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote TimSpangler Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: June-13-2011 at 3:34pm
Nice boat! Definitely and '84. No side vents and striped graphic, that would have been the only year like that. I believe the '85 had solid color graphics? The '83 had side vents.

What did you pay for that set? It will be a great boat once you clean it up. How long did it sit? I would suggest cleaning the gas tank and replacing the fuel/water separator and rebuilding the carb, (ask me how I know this :o( )

Tim
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote ny_nautique Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: June-13-2011 at 4:27pm
Thanks for the quick replies guys. I have confirmed that it really is a 1984.

Justin - I knew about that price... yeah that is a tough one. I had hoped someone had a better solution!

As for the teak, yeah I thought it looked a bit worse than the others I've seen on the site. The one for sale here looks pretty nice. Maybe I'll just go with that.

As far as I know, the boat did not sit at all. It has been in use most of its life, some heavy some light use. The most recent owner had it on a lake and never removed it (obviously). He used it very little the last few years, but claims to have always been winterized properly. It has a new impeller and I'm doing the cap, plugs, and wires. It starts up easy and sounds healthy.

2 weeks ago we had 90 degree weather and no rain so I had it out drying in the sun for 6+ days in a row. It is nice and dry.

I spent my Sunday doing several applications of On & Off and I'm almost happy with it. I also spent some time removing drywall screws from the rub rail... I think there was a total of 12 of them. I'm afraid of what I will find once I take the rub rail off.

Yes Tim B - I am talking about removing the main blue stripes. They are in real bad shape and I just want to start over with it.

Tim - I paid $2000 for it. A few years ago I had a 92 Sport... I bought it for $21,000 and sold it for $22,000 5 years later with only a new prop and depth gauge added to it.

Oh, another question:

There is a storage compartment forward of the battery compartment. It had some water in it and there was a drain plug in the bottom. I used a coat hanger to find out where the drain went to and it seemed to not go anywhere... it stopped in the bulkhead where the battery drain plug was, but did not have a hole to drain anywhere... pics may help explain this better.. but I'm wondering - was it supposed to go somewhere or not? It seems awfully odd that it would have a drain hole on one end that seemingly just went nowhere.
- Jeff
1999 Ski Nautique
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Jllogan Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: June-13-2011 at 4:40pm
wow thats a great price for a running boat, congrats man, you will have fun with it especially when you get it all fixed up. On mine (86) it has the numbers 86 in the Hull ID so I think if they are all that way it will tell you for sure.
What I have noticed about boat registration at least in ohio, is they know nothing about it and it could be definitely wrong. For example my title has "ski nautique" as make and model as blank. Even though I told the woman at the title agency what to put she still just stared at me and said well, I will just leave it blank. OK. Then when I told her the engine was a ford PCM 351 she just stared at me. Then I said, "Just put what I said". Yikes.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote ny_nautique Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: June-13-2011 at 4:41pm
Here's a quick drawing I did to explain that "drain to nowhere".
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote TimSpangler Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: June-13-2011 at 4:49pm
I'll have to check mine. I think it should drain into the bilge. What is the hull ID, this will tell you what year it is for sure.

Are you going to put the stripes back on?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote ny_nautique Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: June-13-2011 at 5:26pm
Looking at the paint scheme between the 85 and 84 hulls, it does seem like mine is an 84.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote ny_nautique Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: June-14-2011 at 12:04am
Wanting to get working on this soon so still hoping for tips on removing the paint stripes (to be redone over the winter) and what to use to wet sand with. Any suggestions? Thanks!
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote eric lavine Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: June-14-2011 at 9:34am
the wifes not making you paint the garage first?
"the things you own will start to own you"
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote gun-driver Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: June-14-2011 at 10:21am
[QUOTE=ny_nautique] Here's a quick drawing I did to explain that "drain to nowhere".

The water drains into the foam and then is absorbed !!!
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote ny_nautique Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: June-14-2011 at 12:18pm
Eric - it kills me to not have the garage finished! We're building a new house with a 28 ft deep garage that will handle my boat nicely. That one will be finished!

Gun Driver - yes, my thoughts exactly. A built-in wake ballast system before they were even invented! Simply put some ice in your cooler and let the boat absorb all the melted water...
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Jllogan Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: June-14-2011 at 12:33pm
I used a festool random orbital sander with a 500 grit wetsand foam pad. This was the easiest way but you need to locate a sander capable of wetsanding. Alot of guys on here use the old wood block method which works, but also works your arm, especially if your gelcoat is as bad as mine was. My charcoal was more like light gray. My shoulder was almost shot after that and the buffing, had to take it easy for a week or I wouldnt be able to ski.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 8122pbrainard Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: June-14-2011 at 1:34pm
Originally posted by Jllogan Jllogan wrote:

I used a festool random orbital sander with a 500 grit wetsand foam pad. This was the easiest way but you need to locate a sander capable of wetsanding.

For those that don't want to go for a real high end RO sander or don't have the compressed air for a DA, a regular RO electric works great. All that's needed is the hook and loop wet/dry paper or "Abralon" abrasive.
I haven't blown a bearing out yet on my Porter Cable! I do have a spare one available just in case!


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Keep it original, Pete
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote C-Bass Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: June-14-2011 at 2:50pm
Is there a wet/dry paper for DA's? Or do the people who use DA's just not use water?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 8122pbrainard Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: June-14-2011 at 3:45pm
Craig,
There are several hook and loop options that can be used for the final wet sanding and designed for it. I have the RO in one hand and a spray bottle filled with water in the other. I get all my abrasives out of Woodworkers Supply Here's the Micro Mesh for when you're getting down to the final steps.


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote gun-driver Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: June-14-2011 at 6:58pm
I just got some hook & loop wet/dry I ordered it from McMaster-Carr

http://www.mcmaster.com/#aluminum-oxide-sanding-discs/=cqx837
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote ny_nautique Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: June-15-2011 at 1:55pm
Started wetsanding by hand last night and it actually is going pretty easy. I tried to find the 3M eraser but couldn't. Heading out to a few auto shops right now to see if they have any.
I ordered a few things last night from White Lake and have my mom working on sewing up some seat covers :)
My wife just wants me to buy the skins from Nautique skins but I didn't get a price yet.

I'll post pics of the bilge cover... whatever you call the 3/4" plywood behind the engine. It was so rotted that it was in 2 pieces, with only the carpet holding it together. I can't wait to see what that foam looks like underneath!

Tim - wondering if you got a chance to see where your ice chest drain goes to.

- Jeff
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote ny_nautique Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: June-15-2011 at 2:32pm
Pete and all,
What are your recommended stages for sanding/buffing?
I started with 500 wetsand.
What's next and when do I get to the 3M marine compound and glaze?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote ny_nautique Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: June-15-2011 at 9:50pm
If you ever need to remove stickers / decals the 3M wheel is amazing!
My local NAPA had several of them. Part number MMM 07498

I'm in the process of taking off the rub rail and wow is it in bad shape. Pics to follow.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote TimSpangler Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: June-16-2011 at 12:09pm
Jeff,

I confirm that the cooler drain comes out in the bilge beside the battery drain along the bottom of the bulkhead. Looking at the bulkhead the cooler drain is on the left and the battery drain is on the right.

This in on an '83
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote ny_nautique Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: June-16-2011 at 12:14pm
Took off the rub rail last night. There were about 25 rusted drywall screws in there, through the rope. After taking the remaining 8,597 stainless screws out, I was left with this:


The starboard side isn't as bad but the port has a lot of these gouges. How can I fix these gouges? Simply a gel coat patch kit?

BTW, here's the boat on stands in my garage.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote ny_nautique Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: June-16-2011 at 12:18pm
One more of the gouges. No idea how they got there but they stick up above the height of the rub rail.

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote JoeinNY Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: June-16-2011 at 12:35pm
They got there when the rub rail was smashed down on a dock and tore out.. the screws when with it and caused the damage. Then they jammed it back down smashed it with a mallet and stuck some drywall screws into it to keep it down. I think patch paste is going to be your friend if you are really looking to take that boat back to glory. I would grind a groove all the way around the boat in the gelcoate just below where the rub rail will cover and only repair above the groove. That will keep the stress cracks from coming up from the holes for the rub rail screws. Anything above the grind line that is already cracked you would need to go down to glass there and repair with the patch paste. Then of course smooth, wetsand.. yadda yadda. If you want to come by and pracice on my 95 first I have the patch paste already on hand.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 8122pbrainard Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: June-16-2011 at 12:56pm
Joe has the same idea that I do. A bolt or a pretty big nail sticking out from the dock. No bumpers and large wave action took out the rub rail and the bolt/nail went after the hull gel. Some people just don't care!!! That is reflected with the dry wall screw "repair" as well!


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote ny_nautique Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: June-16-2011 at 1:08pm
Ahh, makes sense. Thanks. For patch paste, are you talking Spectrum Color patch paste? I just called them and minimum order is a gallon for ~$220.
Good idea about making the small groove.

Tim - Thanks... I can't see in there so I'm going to take some pics tonight to see what it really looks like. There is certainly no factory drain going into the bilge there... from what I can feel with my hand.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 8122pbrainard Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: June-16-2011 at 1:30pm
Jeff,
For smaller quantities of gel, patch kits are available from almost any marne supply. They come with tints to match your color of gel - that's the tricky part!!!

Also, check out Mini-craft of florida for smaller quantities. They also have a color matching service (for a fee) but you need to send them a quarter size or bigger sample of your gel.


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote ny_nautique Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: June-16-2011 at 2:06pm
Thanks Pete. I did buy a color match kit last night. Hoping it arrives on Friday.
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