EFI Conversion on a 76 PCM 351W

Rosco,
the sniper looks like a good option the big benefit I see is the easy install, autotune and very compact. From what I can see the autotune is it, you can’t change spark and fuel tables manually to fine tune your setup.
I did not see a knock sensor these are a must have if you want to tune your spark timing to max. Without you take the risk of going to fare and blow your engine.
It can control spark timing but will not allow you to eliminate the distributor.
My MS3X has autotune as well and it got it running almost perfect. I used manual tune to optimize idle. I barely touched accel enrichment (responsible for throttle response) and top end tune.

Keno,
The only thing I can see not being confirm with USCG on my setup is the ECU itself and I really don’t care. I strongly believe the USCG stamp is not what prevents the explosion it’s the regular high quality maintenance that really keeps you save.
The Ford ECU is a exactly the same as an automotive ECU, at least I could not see any difference besides the software its running.

Rosco,
You are correct this is not even close to the Ford ECU but it does not and is not designed to go in between stock ECU and EFI. The MS3X is a complete standalone ECU that replaces the existing ECU.
I have never heard anything about red and white serial numbers can you explain?

Peter

KENO wrote: Peter6000 wrote: I converted a 1999 GT40 so I already had 8 fuel injectors installed and a working fuel pump system. here is a quick summery of the steps I did. I purchased the boat with a blown engine and had it completely rebuild.and drilled to the biggest size. This create a problem with the vintage ford open loop ECU. Bad idle and bad hot start. Here are the steps: -build Megasquirt MS3X -Build adapter to have plug and play -set up MS3X to imitate old Ford ECU      (batch fire fuel injection, TFI ignition with distributor)      now I was able to control the spark and fuel map and fix the idle and hot start      performance was the same as the Ford ECU -added 2 O2 sensors /absolutely necessary for tuning the engine /now autotune works -added a crank toothed wheel and sensor for better timing -converted the distributer to a cam sensor for full sequential fuel and spark -removed distributor and put 2 quat spark coils in place -replace fuel pressure regulator with adjustable version     (needed more fuel at full throttle) -added/replace 2 knock sensors (better save the sorry) -added permanent fuel pressure sensor -at this point I had to change the wiring, the ford connector did not work well I removed/converted the wiring harness all new waterproof connectors. no more going back to Ford ECU. -re tuned the engine to full seq. fuel and spark run autotune for a couple of hours -added several alarms like fuel+oil pressure, temp++ to trigger check engine, limp mode or engine off now the engine runs, idles and starts like dream plans for the winter -replace rest of distributor with ford cam sensor -add digital dash board with GPS speed and all gauges (almost done) -ad CAN bus to get more sensor readings    like: speed from paddle wheel, exhaust temp., lake water temp,+++ -Integrate perfect pass maybe even drive by wire for throttle control    my perfect pass controller is dead I plan on using a Arduino to replace it    but this maybe next winter. Peter Now I may be about as sharp as a bowling ball, but I don't see where any of what you've done has really affected the "marine certification " or whatever of your engine. You still have most of the injection system like the injectors, throttle body, marine fuel pump. You're basically just controlling it all with a different ECU that doesn't say marine in it's description. (And it 's not even in the engine compartment) I'd bet that the original Ford ECU has no "marine" pedigree of any kind, otherwise those people replacing theirs with a reprogrammed automotive one have some issues You have a marine starter and alternator I'd assume and you mentioned having a marine flame arrestor Maybe your fuel lines are questionable? Tell me what I'm missing

Its no where near a Ford ECU , Megasquirt was designed to be go between a stock EFI system and a full blown sequential wideband EFI system for cost effectiveness and tune-ability , But you would realize its now a crank triggered coil on plug system now if you read what he said.. Which is similar to LS in nature or design to later Ford or Lincoln. Its all really the same when it comes to EFI marine PCM might have some coated circuit board and all weatherpack connectors and programming , they may have a slightly different pin locations and harness. . But for the most part you can rob parts from a ford truck or a mustang of similar year. The starter/alternator may be different and fuel line probably is for obvious reasons. If you recall the red and white SN that had a gt40 motor out of ford lighting that was definitely not anything ford "marine" I think it went every bit of 60 or I heard.

Peter6000 wrote: I converted a 1999 GT40 so I already had 8 fuel injectors installed and a working fuel pump system. here is a quick summery of the steps I did. I purchased the boat with a blown engine and had it completely rebuild.and drilled to the biggest size. This create a problem with the vintage ford open loop ECU. Bad idle and bad hot start. Here are the steps: -build Megasquirt MS3X -Build adapter to have plug and play -set up MS3X to imitate old Ford ECU      (batch fire fuel injection, TFI ignition with distributor)      now I was able to control the spark and fuel map and fix the idle and hot start      performance was the same as the Ford ECU -added 2 O2 sensors /absolutely necessary for tuning the engine /now autotune works -added a crank toothed wheel and sensor for better timing -converted the distributer to a cam sensor for full sequential fuel and spark -removed distributor and put 2 quat spark coils in place -replace fuel pressure regulator with adjustable version     (needed more fuel at full throttle) -added/replace 2 knock sensors (better save the sorry) -added permanent fuel pressure sensor -at this point I had to change the wiring, the ford connector did not work well I removed/converted the wiring harness all new waterproof connectors. no more going back to Ford ECU. -re tuned the engine to full seq. fuel and spark run autotune for a couple of hours -added several alarms like fuel+oil pressure, temp++ to trigger check engine, limp mode or engine off now the engine runs, idles and starts like dream plans for the winter -replace rest of distributor with ford cam sensor -add digital dash board with GPS speed and all gauges (almost done) -ad CAN bus to get more sensor readings    like: speed from paddle wheel, exhaust temp., lake water temp,+++ -Integrate perfect pass maybe even drive by wire for throttle control    my perfect pass controller is dead I plan on using a Arduino to replace it    but this maybe next winter. Peter

Now I may be about as sharp as a bowling ball, but I don't see where any of what you've done has really affected the "marine certification " or whatever of your engine.

You still have most of the injection system like the injectors, throttle body, marine fuel pump. You're basically just controlling it all with a different ECU that doesn't say marine in it's description. (And it 's not even in the engine compartment)

I'd bet that the original Ford ECU has no "marine" pedigree of any kind, otherwise those people replacing theirs with a reprogrammed automotive one have some issues

You have a marine starter and alternator I'd assume and you mentioned having a marine flame arrestor

Maybe your fuel lines are questionable?

Tell me what I'm missing   

I converted a 1999 GT40 so I already had 8 fuel injectors installed and a working fuel pump system. here is a quick summery of the steps I did.
I purchased the boat with a blown engine and had it completely rebuild.and drilled to the biggest size. This create a problem with the vintage ford open loop ECU.
Bad idle and bad hot start.

Here are the steps:
-build Megasquirt MS3X
-Build adapter to have plug and play
-set up MS3X to imitate old Ford ECU
     (batch fire fuel injection, TFI ignition with distributor)
     now I was able to control the spark and fuel map and fix the idle and hot start
     performance was the same as the Ford ECU
-added 2 O2 sensors /absolutely necessary for tuning the engine /now autotune works
-added a crank toothed wheel and sensor for better timing
-converted the distributer to a cam sensor for full sequential fuel and spark
-removed distributor and put 2 quat spark coils in place
-replace fuel pressure regulator with adjustable version
    (needed more fuel at full throttle)
-added/replace 2 knock sensors (better save the sorry)
-added permanent fuel pressure sensor
-at this point I had to change the wiring, the ford connector did not work well
I removed/converted the wiring harness all new waterproof connectors.
no more going back to Ford ECU.
-re tuned the engine to full seq. fuel and spark run autotune for a couple of hours
-added several alarms like fuel+oil pressure, temp++ to trigger check engine, limp mode
or engine off

now the engine runs, idles and starts like dream

plans for the winter
-replace rest of distributor with ford cam sensor
-add digital dash board with GPS speed and all gauges (almost done)
-ad CAN bus to get more sensor readings
   like: speed from paddle wheel, exhaust temp., lake water temp,+++
-Integrate perfect pass maybe even drive by wire for throttle control
   my perfect pass controller is dead I plan on using a Arduino to replace it
   but this maybe next winter.

Peter

I think 28_OFF just plain vanished, his last time logged in was a little over 7 years ago

Rosconole dragged this thread back from the grave after a 6 year "nap", but a write up on yours at some point would be interesting

Well, now I guess now we both know what the other one was thinking   

Having read your other posts here and on other websites, I think you should put your whole project into one thread, cause it sounds like a pretty interesting upgrade to a gt40 or really any other 351w for that matter.

You might get some comments from those who are stuck in the stone age, but plenty of people would find it interesting

That "marine approved" stamp is getting to be more and more of a gray area all the time it seems

Got it, fuel pressure

So if there's a fuel leak, the alarm goes off and disables the starter, but the engine keeps running till you turn it off or it stalls, then you can't restart it?

It seems like by the time you get the low fuel pressure, maybe you've had the fire already with pressurized fuel spraying around under the engine box and hitting the hot exhaust manifolds before the water jacketed area

What's the normal fuel pressure and what's the low pressure setpoint?

Must have the low oil pressure shutoff on the fuel pump to stop the flow of fuel so you don't continue feeding the fire if it started

Peter6000 wrote: I run very similar O2 sensor adapters on a Megasqirt MS3X for about 3 years now, no problems. I went further converted to real full sequential fuel injection, full sequential spark and coil near plug setup with 2 O2 sensors. I run way better then the original setup but removing the distributer made a huge difference. I use a marine grade fuel pump and flame arrestor the ECU is in the front under the dashboard. This should keep it save from exploding especially with the distributor gone there are no more sparks in the engine compartment. I also setup a warnings for low fuel pressure in case I have a fuel leak somewhere the warning automatically disables the starter. Peter

May be a silly question, but if low oil pressure disables the starter, how do you start it normally with no oil pressure?

If you have a fuel leak and it's running, who cares if the starter is disabled?

Or do you maybe mean that the ignition system gets disabled and the engine quits?

Havent performed the swap yet. Im lookin at an adapter that goes in the side of the upper riser

81nautique wrote: This first picture is an adapter I made for PCM manifolds which I never installed but think it should work. The later is the one for my logs which again worked long enough for tuning but failed later. Both versions install between the manifold and elbow.

Alan do you still have the above adapter for the PCM manifolds? If so are you willing to sell?

Looking to data log the fuel mapping on a standard GT40.

Thanks Lewy

Ya, easy on the new guy, WTF!

From my experience the issues with the automotive mechanical fuel pumps are the problem with the weep hole and single diaphram. Instead of the dual diaphram and overflow tube running to the carb on the Marine. This is fuel injected so a return line sends the excess fuel back and all you have to worryabout is the electrical connections being sealed to prevent a spark. As for the possibility of corrosion this is always related to salt water and I have no intention of taking my 18 foot comp ski boat in the ocean.

In the end I went with a marine efi fuel pump just so I didn't get yelled at.

On your Powerjection install, did you use their fuel pump or did you use a USCG approved marine fuel pump instead? If you used theirs, any problems with the fact that it was not a marine unit? I've heard that automotive pumps do not perform well in boats.

You know, most efi parts on efi boats from the factory don't have specific marine ratings and are simply automotive items.

Post up. I' m interested.

That is a sweet O2 adapter! Do they sell it alone? 81nautique's are slick too.

I've run a Megasquirt TBI system on my 1975 351w for about 18 months. However, it runs open loop only (so you have to dial it in a little more precisely). I'd love to let it autotune with O2 feedback.

My system cost me a total of about 600$ (and a pretty steep learning curve). It was definitely not a drop-in "kit".

All fuel lines, connectors and wiring are marine. The throttle body -- from a GM truck -- temp sensors, fuel pump, computer (w/ map sensor) and home-made relay board are not.