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Engine temp fluctuation

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skier12 View Drop Down
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    Posted: July-15-2011 at 12:19pm
We have a 94 sport with a pro boss 351 engine. The first two years we owned the boat it held 160 pretty consistently. Last season we replaced the impeller and thermostat and since then the temp has been less consistent and when it does hold it's closer to 180. We've tried troubleshooting with a CC dealer and their suggestion was see what the motor does without a thermostat in and when we did that it held 125 consistently. We just put a brand new thermostat in and once again were back to a less consistent temp and hovering more around 180. Both new thermostats were labeled 160 degree thermostats.

Anyone have any suggestions as what could be causing this?

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skier12 View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote skier12 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: July-18-2011 at 12:02pm
TTT, any suggestions?
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Munday View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Munday Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: July-18-2011 at 12:17pm
Needs to be a balanced thermostat.Check it in a pan on the stove to see what actual opening temp is, I use a meat thermometer.If you lost impellor pieces brfore change they maybe lodged in hose.

Bob
If the only tool you have is a hammer,everything starts to look like a nail.
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Bri892001 View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Bri892001 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: July-18-2011 at 1:46pm
Me thinks you might want the 143 degree thermostat instead of the 160:
SkiDim Thermostat page

Could be that you had a 143 in there before when you were getting the lower temp readings. A 143 stat should put your actual gauge around 160.

The 160 degree stats are more for the fuel injected motors and for those that have the closed loop w heat exchanger (aka fresh water cooling) systems. If you're just cooling with raw water, as most of us are, then you probably want the 143.

Also, some of these wacky gauge readings have to do with electrical and bad ground issues. Do you notice your gauge jumping at all when you turn on the blower or Nav lights? If so, you're problem could be that the gauge is just reading funny, not that the motor is actually hot.

Always good to just check your exhaust manifold temps. They should be good and warm when the motor is warm, but not scalding hot. Also, check out the Ski Dim Troubleshoot guide.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote ttgoddard Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: July-18-2011 at 2:01pm
I had exactly the same thing two weeks ago in my 1990 SN. Every so often the boat would get too hot on starting up. I would shut off, let it cool a little, re-start and it would be fine. Clearly the thermostat was sticking.

So I wanted to change the impeller anyway so I ordered an impeller and thermostat.

Put them both in and the same as you, boat always used to sit just below 160, even a little lower. With the new thermostat in, my boat would run hotter, nearly 180, occasionally a little lower, but 170 at best. What I also noticed was when I gunned it back to get my fallen skier, shut off and started back up, the gauge would be high of course, but take forever to come back down, unlike my old stat that would drop real quick.

My new thermostat was rated at 140 degrees whereas the original I took out was 146, although the old one used to run colder with it in, strange I thought.

Okay, so what did I do. I cycled the old original thermostat three times in boiling water and it opened and closed perfectly.

I took the new thermostat out of the boat and what I noticed was the actually opening (orifice) in the thermostat once open at it's temperature was much much smaller on the new (Sierra) thermostat than the old one. So the new one, despite opening 6 degrees earlier, had maybe half the flowrate as the old one.

I stuck the old one back in, and my boat is perfect again, opening as it should, holding at between 150 and 160. It has not hung up again since, so probably some grit or rust had gotten in there which cleared out when I cycled it.

You should compare yourself, the opening difference was huge so very little water flow was getting through the new thermostat despite being fully open, and open even a tad earlier.

Good luck, but I think you will find that the problem, just hope you still have the old stat. If not, order a real PCM one and not an after market one as I did.

Tony
1990 Ski Nautique
351 PCM
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skier12 View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote skier12 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: July-19-2011 at 11:54am
Thanks for the tips guys.

Bri892001, we have the EFI Pro Boss engine so I think we have the correct 160 degree thermostat, someone please let me know if we don't though. That would be a simple fix if we just had to install the 143 thermostat.

I'll see if my dad still has the old thermostat and we'll do a comparison to see if something is different.

Then I guess the next step would be to overhaul the raw water pump and replace the impeller and do a check of all the hoses to make sure there's no blockages. The old impeller came out in good condition and was only changed as part of routine maintenance.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote ttgoddard Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: July-19-2011 at 3:36pm
Definitely compare the opening when they are both boiled in a pot of boiling water, I am sure you will find that the problem. Even if you put a 143 degree opening stat in there, that just means it will open earlier, but if it is the same small opening once open, you won't get the water flow needed to keep the engine cool.

Frankly I don't think you have any blockages, if you did, by taking the stat out and running it without, you wouldn't have been nice and cool at 125 degrees as you were.

I have a friend with a Mastercraft whose impeller came apart and caused some blockages. I can tell you from working on that with him that free flow of cold water is crucial to keeping them cool. Even with his stat out, it would get too hot due to the blockages.

Take a look at this skidim.com link where you can see the PCM stat, when it is open, the entire three triangular areas are fully open allowing lots of water flow. On the Sierra one I tried, the opening was just a small ring open once the disk had opened up at temperature, it looked much like a car stat. I would say the flow rate was a third of the old stat. Even skidim make the comment that only the OEM stats work in these engines.

http://www.skidim.com/prodinfo.asp?number=RP026002

Good luck.....Tony
1990 Ski Nautique
351 PCM
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote TX Foilhead Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: July-23-2011 at 2:24am
I fought with the same problem a while back, the PCM thermostat opens all the way at once, the off the shelf ones I got at Napa open gradually. I run the 160 on a carbed motor, I'll get flamed for it some more. I like my heater to do it's best in the winter and with the long run from one end of the boat to the other a few extra degrees helps. Funny thing is, my boat runs the same temps as everyone else, I just stay closer to 160 in the winter.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Clew In Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: July-24-2011 at 12:49pm
Hey,

I purchased what was supposed to be a 143 degree thermostat from Ski Dim. I replaced the old thermostat and when I put my boat in the water it went over 200 and I shut her down. Waited a little bit started up and did the same thing. Took the new Ski Dim thermostat out and put old one in and I was back to around 160 and when I run hard it rises to 180 or so.

The Ski Dim thermostat was a pcm and only had a catalog number on the wrapper. I boiled it on the stove and it started opening up above 160 and at 200 plus finally opend up all the way. How fast is it supposed to open up?

Could the new thermostat have been stuck?

Tom

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote NL SKI Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: July-26-2011 at 10:29am
If you have the EFI GT40 motor you really need the 160 thermostat. I have two GT 40 motors and two carb 351 windsors. The ECM on the gt40 will still think the motors cold and it won't idle correctly without the motor being up to temp.
The water I run my boats in has a lot of calcium and screws thermostats up quickly!!! The problem I have is my thermostat will be stuck open slightly and the boat will always remain cool until I pull a strong slalom skier or barefooter then it will overheat.
Just replaced a head on a GT40 and when i was juggling around the manifolds a lot of calcium buildup came out of them. So I'm wondering if that is restricting the water flow? Any body have any ideas on how to clean out a manifold. I tapped on it and blew it out with air but I'm sure theres still a lot of build up in there.
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skier12 View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote skier12 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: August-14-2011 at 11:47am
BRI892001 was absolutely correct!! We finally got around to ordering and installing the 143 degree thermostat and the engine now holds 160 like it used to. So I guess the pro boss EFI engines are the one the one exception to the all EFI engines use the 160 thermo. Unfortunately we weren't able to find the original thermo we took out that would have been the best way to figure out which one we needed.

Thanks for the help guys!
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Bri892001 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: August-14-2011 at 2:36pm
Good to hear you got the problem solved.
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