Starter Solenoid

Replaced starter solenoid on my PCM 351 a few weeks back when the starter would only buzz. An easy fix and it ran great afterwards, but when i went to start up yesterday, the starter would not disengage. I had to frantically get to the battery and remove the cables. I am assuming the solenoid is stuck but am just frustrated this happened since it's almost new. Would anything cause this or can they just crap out occassionaly?

Deep cycle batteries can cause this problem. For starting, you want to make sure you have a regular (automotive type) starting battery. This is the one place where using an automotive part is ok and correct.

From another thread:

8122pbrainard wrote: wakeboardin2k4 wrote: 8122pbrainard wrote: Deep cycle battery? For the sake of learning Pete, why would a deep cycle battery cause that issue A heavy amp draw (starting) on a deep cycle will cause quite a voltage drop. They have a high interal resistance and are just not designed for the high amps. The low valtage will cause a even higher amp condition (Ohms law) and burn/weld contacts in the start relays (especially cheap Aotozones! ) as well as burn/melt bad connection like his battery cable lugs.

Brand new starting battery, not deep cycle. My positive cable from the battery to the solenoid is old and wonder if that might be worth replacing? The solenoid I bought was from Autozone, it seems they have 2 options on the website, one looks to be generic and the other is "duralast gold"….I think I'll pony up the few extra bucks for that

This thread talks about ignition switch testing:
Ignition Switch

It's possible but unlikely the switch is staying in start. Bear in mind that the switch is only dealing with the hot side of your circuit. You have a B for battery I for ignition and S for start.

The B should always be hot, the I should be on whenever ignition or start is selected with the key. S should only be hot when in start.

Also test your relay for continuity. If it's always passing juice (with the key in S or not) then the inner contacts are already welded.

The voltage drop mentioned could be happening at the switch but could also happen elsewhere. Every place there in a join of wires, you have a potential drop and the older the wiring the more likely. Plus, the wires tend to be undersized from the start and when things get old they loose conductivity.

This site has several instances of people using any solenoid from autozone and having continued problems. I would not buy from them. There parts in general are bottom of the barrel, even the guys at my local autozone tell me Im better off getting parts elsewhere. I would get OEM from ford or nautiqueparts.com has. I am sure SKIDIM has them too.

As far as the key sticking, I doubt it unless it is physically stuck in the start position and is not returning to on. If you want to check though, unlook the little solenoid wire from the solenoid and put a tester on it. You should only have 12V there when it is in the start position. If it stays on then its sticking.

I would replace both battery cables. I put much beefier ones on mine (1/0) and it turns over alot easier now.